Knitting Machine Jumper Pattern

is that working? great. hi! i'm super excitedto be here and speaking at jsconf. my name is mariko. that's my twitterhandle. i should be automatically tweeting this slide, linkedto this slide, so if you're in the back and you want to see that, you can findit there. i will be joining a company called (inaudible) next week, which-- i'm super excited about that. but today i'm not going to talk about softwareengineering. i'm going to talk about knitting. and just in case you'rewondering, like if you are at the wrong conference, i will assure youthat i will have enough math and code examples for you to be interested. justfor the guideline, i have a

visual relation down on the slide. so theblue dots are indications that the slide has some kind of math reference,computer science reference. the radius of the circle is how many scoopsof ice cream i served myself after i figured that out. the yellow dots are somerandom gif animations, because why not? so i like knitting. i'vebeen doing knitting for quite a while. i think the first time i was doingit i was seven years old. it's something i've always done. once a year, comewinter, i knit a scarf or mitten. something very simple. nothing crazylike having an etsy store or anything. so here's a few of my projects thati've done in recent years. one

winter, i think three years ago, was a veryspecial winter for me, because i learned to javascript while i wasalso working on this green scarf project. and i started to notice really interestingpower of computer programming and the process of knitting.so, for example, when you get started -- like, if you've never knitsomething, knitting might look like this. seven-year-old me was like-- i'm never going to be able to figure this out, this thing that mom and grandmais doing. so intimidating. my experiences programming, the first time,was just installing npm install on a terminal. it was so confusing. wordsflying around, and is my laptop

being hacked? and like what's going on? but we all know that once you've done it,once, and know, like, what exactly it's doing, you know, it's not soscary at all. the other thing -- computer programming is very binary. knittingis very binary. the atomic unit, the smallest unit that you can do istwo stitches, which is knit stitch and purl stitch. knit stitch is thestitch that you pull the yarn from the back of the loop, and purl stitch is theyarn -- you push the yarn in front of the loop. and those two stitchescreate two distinct faces of fabric. and the combination of those two,much like we say -- programming

is ones and zeroes -- creates a pattern inthe fabric. so the green side of the fabric, which is 2x2 ribbing, whichis commonly used for the cuff of your sweater or the neckline of your sweater,is two knit stitch, two purl stitch, alternating each other, and thengoing row by row. the other side of the pattern is the one i took frommy sweater, which is a little more intricate, making a diagonal line. butif you look closely, it's just knit and purl stitch. just one stitch by onestitch, shifting to the left to create a diagonal line. knitters havea github, actually. it's called ravelry. people log in, you can putyour patterns, sell your

patterns, star somebody's projects, and showyour photos. it's a central repository of knowledge that you do with knitting.and speaking of a central repository, code for knitting -- the knittingpattern -- looks like this. and i thought this was totally -- looked likecode. because there is, like, some letters that are kind of repeating,and maybe kind of like a variable, that's accessing the same informationagain and again. and there's more explicit loop indications. likeknit until two stitches remaining. or repeat row one to four, forten times. this brings me to -- i could pseudoknit in javascript. so i tookthis code, which was a scarf

pattern, very simple scarf pattern, put itinto 30 lines of javascript, to visualize what this would look like, virtually.and this is what i came out. you know, it is... it turned out it'sonly using a knit stitch. it's not a purl stitch. so it's okay. and it'sa knit scarf. so making a triangular shape. which is all right. i canunderstand that. so i actually knit that pattern myself, and i haveit here. but it turns out it didn't quite become triangular.instead, it became like an arc. so in my code, those yellowstripes should be straight, flat lines. but then it became an arc. andi was like... this is only 30

lines of javascript. and i write javascriptprofessionally. like, where is my bug? i can't figure that out. so i haveit here. where my four stitches started here, two inches or so, andi knit it down. and if i force the fabric to see it, you could saythis is like a straight line, but in fact, it ended up being an arc of a scarf.so why? i did a little bit of research and found out that what i was discoveringwas something called hyperbolic geometry in math. and i was like...okay. in knitting, we call it ruffles. so i didsome more research, and there were three kinds of geometry to describe,and they both use one perfectly

straight line. the one we're familiar is euclideanspace, which -- you have a baseline, and then parallel to that, you haveanother line that will never meet the baseline again. so it's very2d. the other one is spherical space, where the straight lines are on thesphere. however you place it, it will always meet each other. and the thirdone is a hyperbolic space, which -- there is a baseline, and the straight line,infinite number of straight lines, can be drawn. and it turns out thishyperbolic geometry is a hard problem to solve in computer graphics,because it's hard to model. researcher at cornell actually created a physicalmodel of hyperbolic

geometry in knitted fabric. in her case, createdin crotchet. and here's her paper about how she created the hyperbolicplane. so when i discovered this, i just stumbled upon a problem making ruffles.but when i discovered this is an actual math problem behind my ruffle, iwas like -- this is great. i want to do more of this. i want to discovermore about pattern making, and i want to do this. the problem was that knittingis a very slow process. like, this scarf -- itself, take maybe five daysof solid work. so... eight hours a day? and if you think about softwareengineer salary -- this is a very expensive piece of scarf. so i didmore research about -- how can i

test out my patterns? and stumbled upon thisthing, called a knitting machine. which i have never knew that thisexisted. but apparently it existed for home use, available to your house,since 1890. and this is the ad from that era. and furthermore,interesting, as a native japanese, was that the knitting machine wasa very popular thing to own in the household, in the '70s and '80s japan. andpeople were offering local classes, people owned a knitting machine likeyou would own a sewing machine. i found one tv commercial on youtube aboutthis knitting machine from 1979. if you can get the audio.

(song in japanese with female vocalist) (male narrator speaking japanese) (female vocalist singing in japanese) all right. so i am as confused as you areto see this tv commercial for one different reason. the song that was inthe background, the lyrics said that creating a special original pattern knitwearis like sending a secret love letter to your loved one. and i thoughtthat was kind of creepy, but apparently... things to do in the '70s! ilived in new york city when i discovered this, so i couldn't really go downto local classes. so i don't

even know if that's offered in tokyo now.but i made a short trip to ebay. spent a couple hundred dollars to buy thismachine. and i got it, i set it up, and i was like... okay. i'm goingto set this up. and create all of the patterns, and i'm going to be awesome,and create sweaters. turns out... operating the machine, even beforegoing into creating a pattern, was a lot of work. the machine was made in the '80s. it was sittingin somebody's closet for a long time. it was missing the manuals. soi ended up -- the next two months, just researching all kinds of stuff on japaneseblog posts about machine

knitting. possibly watched every single youtubevideo about machine knitting that's posted. many of them are japanese.occasional trip to a free preview version of google books, because icouldn't go to a japanese bookstore down the street from my parents'house and pick up the book. i never thanked myself enough to be able tospeak japanese. because all of the stuff, great stuff, was available in japanese.and i just get to angry, when software only offers documentation inenglish. certain things i could not understand. but in knitting, atleast i got my turn to just do things in japanese. on top of figuring outhow to operate the machine, i

actually needed to fix the machine. so i figuredout how to operate this machine. moving back and forth. but it wasn'tknitting quite right. something was missing. and basically i flippedthe carriers, looking at examining what exactly it's supposed to do,and what each path is doing. and after looking at maybe four hours of,like, mechanics of things, i found out that one piece of thing was stuckin there. and just a jiggle -- it worked perfectly! and so finally, i gotto knit a fabric out of the machine. and i was like... this is great.one thing about this machine is it's known for something called jacquard knitor fair isle knit, or pattern

knit, if you're familiar with those terms.the term jacquard comes directly from the jacquard loom, which isa different kind of machine that creates a fabric, and uses a punch cardto input the data. and this punch card system, the punch card loom, becamethe base of the modern computer. which -- i thought this was a greatdiscovery. when i did the research and learned about it, i was so excited.so... the machine is based on that. and you see on the '70s ad -- themachine actually had a punch card feeder. so you create your own punch card,and then feed it into the punch card feeder, and that will translate the patternfor you. my machine is

coming from the '80s, so it is an electroknit.it's actually the name of the model. it's called the electroknit. andwhat does that mean? it no longer has a feeder for a bunch card. butit has a mother board and chip and magnetic strip. you use an electromagnet topush and pull the needles automatically. it's a lot like dot matrix printing, if youare familiar with a dot matrix printer. one pixel becomes one stitch. soin this machine's case, i feed it a yellow and blue yarn, the needle that's pushedforward is grabbing a contrasting color, which is blue, and thenthe needle that was left behind

is grabbing a base color, which is yellow.that's how they create a pattern. so that means i can create some kind of graphic-- anything. in this case, the jsconf logo. and then put it into knittedfabric. and i was like... i found out how to operate this machine, i fixed thismachine. this shouldn't be a problem. i'm going to do this. turns outit was not that easy. not even... so there was so many things that you neededto figure out. which is indicated in that blue dot. even before you actually put the data intothe machine. so first question was like -- how do i even make bitmap image?because if you're using

photoshop, you just load the colored photoin, select grayscale, and select the bitmap method, and it will automaticallyfeed the bitmap for you. but i need to do this in code.how do i programmatically do that? let's start with just learning aboutimages, and loading the image. i used a library called graphics magic and thennpm package gm, which wraps that library. i actually started by usingphantomjs, creating a canvas in phantom, loading the image, andusing the phantom api to extract all of the data, which worked fine, but itwas very slow. and gm was suggested to me as a faster alternative. andit worked perfectly.

so when you load a file into gm as a textfile, this is what you get. xy coordinates of the pixel. rgb value of thecolor, and then also the hex value for that color. so all you do is a handy-dandyregexing, and create an array of arrays for each pixel. so now i havergb color for each pixel. let's get on it and make it grayscale? but how doi grayscale? i spent two hours just looking at a single wikipedia pageabout grayscaling, and the engineer from adobe confirmed that's okay.so i'm confident about my explanation here. you have rgb value for eachcolor. in this case, pink and green. you find the highest value foreach color. in this case, pink,

red is the highest value. green, green isthe highest value. you repeat that number, and then you get the grayscalecolor. so now you load the image in gm. you get allof the color. and you have three color -- rgb value array. you just findthe max value out of the array, and then you have an array of just the maxvalue. and you can use that to create a grayscale image. so i was like...this is black and white photography. so i can just load it in, becauseit's black and white. but the grey scale image is actually black andwhite and many shades of grey in between. and my machine only has two colors.so it has to be just two colors.

nothing in the shades of grey. so my firstupload was to split it in half. anything closer to white side gets white,and anything closer to black side gets black. and it turns out like this.something like... what came out of a fax machine. i wasn't really happywith that. so i was like... this is my favorite game when i grew up. when i was growing up. and this only used,like, black and white, and it operated beautifully in my tiny apple computer.so i literally googled cosmic osmo graphics and figured out that i neededto do something called dithering. which -- the wikipedia article said it wasan intentionally applied form

of noise. i don't really understand, but okay.gm has built-in methods for it. so i did that. it turns out better thanmy method. but still... somewhere around the area is missing a definition.and i wasn't quite happy with it. i did more research, and something-- discovered that the thing i needed to do was something called ordereddithering, or half tone screening, which is used for newspapers totranslate that picture into a newspaper, which is just one color of ink.so you have a base image. which you extracted the value for the grayscale.and then you have this noise matrix part. you laid it over. you comparethe overlapping pixels. and

if the base image has a lower value than yournoise matrix, then it gets zero. if it's over, then it gets one. andthat's how you make it into two color images. and of course, if it's like...one and two, you can put it into ones and zeroes -- matrix. here's a few examples of that noise matrix.and a lot of people explore their own matrix to create a better dithered image.i ended up using bayer, because i like the output most. so now i loadedthe jsconf logo and outputted it as ones and zero pictures. andif i replace the zero with no value and one with asterisk, you can see somethinglike this. and it's

starting to look like something on the knittedfabric. so i'm like -- great. i've got files. let's just put it intothe machine and just knit. let's make knitting pattern files. the fileformat for this is something called .dat. which i think stands for digitalaudio tape? no idea. if you open it up, you get ones and zeroes. okay.great. binary file. just replace my one and zero matrix and put it in. buti found out if the pattern is in there, it's actually hex. so i'm like... somethingneeds to be done in my one and zero matrix. into this file. what do ido? there was one guy, steve conklin, who is writingthe same kind of project in

python. so i studied his code, and discoveredthis line. and at the time, i was a newbie python developer. so i was learningpython. and i'm like... what is this? i just went through python'stutorial. nothing was mentioned about bitwise operator. how couldi not have heard of this? i just went through training. and i felt like this.i also found out that the bitwise operator existed in javascript, andread an article, and still couldn't really get what it is. so what iconcluded, after two days of, like, you know... throwing balls againstwalls, was that this is like magic. and this is my interpretationof what bitwise operator and bit

shifting is. so i'm going to give you twoexamples. two operations that i use for this machine. one is a bitwiseleft shift. left shift is a guy or fellow who pushes you to the left. andhe's a magician, because it's a bitwise operator. so he has a magic hat. soa is the small value of one. and let's bit shift forward to the left. so therepresentation of this small one is that. and this left shift guycomes in, pushes you four times to the left, and because he is a magician,he makes it to 16. like, how... what... how could that happen? okay. and the bitwise or operator -- the samething. this person favors

one over zero, and he's also a magician. solet's do bitwise or, with 1 and 5. representation of the 1 and 5 is that.first compares 1 and 1. there is only 1, so he chooses 1. there's 0 and 0.so there's no 1, so okay. 0. and next one is 1 and 0. so okay... 1. andbecause it's magic, it stays as 5, even though you just did something. but itstays as 5. so... i needed to do bitshifting, and if you're interested, i'mhappy to share the code, but my one and zero matrix shifted into one set ofthe decimal value of a, shifted again, became one number, and then turnedthat decimal number into hex, and i can finally put it into my knittingmachine. so now i have the file

prepared. and put it into the machine. andnow i want to demo the machine. okay. so i just turned it in. i pre-loadeda file this morning. i used usb to serial port cable. which the tutorial of howto make is available online. and... just select... you might not be ableto see it. but i'm selecting a custom pattern that i created. it says onetime. stitch of 90. okay. start. i changed the setting. make sure this is okay.and now... something interesting should happen. (grinding noises) see? these needles are pushed forward. thismeans that this carriage

uses magnetics to pull those needles, andnow these needles that are pushed forward are picking up this blue yarn.and... all right! now the pattern is done. i canjust discharge this. take this out. actually, just leave it there. you maynot be able to see it from the front. but it actually printed out the jsconf2015 logo. and after that, i'll finish this scarf, and i can show it to youin person, if you're interested. (applause) woo!

oh, how kind! thank you! so going into thisproject, i had no idea what i was doing. i just wanted to do knitting.and i discovered that knitting and javascript are kind of related. that turnedinto, like, finding out about this machine, and i wanted to do this.i had no reservation about trying to sound smart. this wasn't my job. so wheneveri go into a problem, i just tweet out or send emails about it, and somany people just jumped right in, sending me code samples, and giving meencouragement and all of that. so i just want to give a shout out.thank you! and most of the code will be available on electroknit repo, whichright now is empty, but i promise

i will put it up. and a subset from that project-- the part i was doing, the color math -- i was super interestedin it. and i added more features about translation between color spacesand created a small library for you to... what do you call it? explorethe color. and that's available on the color mixer repo, or npm module. sothank you!

Where To Buy Knitting Machine Baby Patterns

welcome back to goodknit kisses. i'm your host kristen and today we're making a simple baby hat and then i will show you afterwe cast that one off... and show you how to do that. i will showyou how to make a decreased crown for the baby hat we're gonna start by making a slipknotin our yarn of choice and i have put this into a cut up straw that's all this is and it's going tohelp me get through
in between the pegs i'm using a 24-pegloom today and these little knobs here, these little red parts are switched out from anotherloom and it's gonna help me do my decrease crown so if you wanna stickaround for the end of this video and see how to do thedecreased crown, instead of a drawstring you are welcome to do that. we're going to start by making a slipknot and we're going to wrap this around ourfinger take that back over the front back and the front again
making our slipknot and this is a this is for a newborn; so i don't want a brim and the reason why no brim is becauseit's harder on their heads and this makes it stretchier nomatter what their size. i'm going to actually put this on mystarter peg iand i'm going to go from the topside and to the starter peg this way and we will work that into our design and this way this knot will fall out
the way we're gonna do it. and you won't have any knots in the beginning of your hat. so we're gonna make an e-wrap. and ifyou've never loomed before, you're going to take your yarn from theback side of the peg you gonna wrap it around like a cursive"e" so we're going in the back-side and allyour work will come through this middle part and then what is seen on this side is called the right side (rs) of the work andthis is the pretty side or the front of your hat. we're gonna wrap around the next peg, go-between
these two pegs, go back around andcontinue if you will start wrapping and having your yarn at thebottom of these pegs here, then you will notice the next timeyou go around it will be easier and you don't have to push these down. and while i'm doing thisactually, from this backside, if you'll notice i just take my finger and i lay this yarn down. i continue helping myself wrap.
so now i've come around again. and this is called casting-on and we're getting all this locked onto our pegs making essentially the first stitch. now goback around again and you don't have to have a yarn guide. i just like to use it when i'm e-wrapping. the e-wrap stitch is a stockinette it's a form a regular knit stitch and itwill curl and that's why you're brim will have acurl on it if you want to not curl you have to usea series of
purls, and i have a video on my sitecalled how to make a purl stitch. the combination the purl actually sends the fabric to the other side and if you use a series over row of knit and a row of purl and then a row of knit, that makes a garter stitch and helps it from actually making a rolled brim. so we're going to continueon. go ahead and knit the bottom loop
over the top. if you do this last one first, that willlock it in. so if you have to set this loom down and continue on it's not going to jump off the pegs. go ahead and knit this one over. now when you first do it may be a littletight. you may want to take that starter one off and then knit this over and then now see your beginning tail? go ahead andpull that slipknot out. and we're gonna work that in on our next row so go ahead and continuealong
knitting over everything this hat size will fit a newborn baby it's supposed to fit three to six monthsbut it depends upon the child generally it fits a newborn. if you have apreemie you may even have to go down to the 12pink flower loom (very small preemie) but the preemie hats need anywhere fromnine to 10 inch that's a head circumference, which the hat circumference is gonna be seven-and-a-half you're going down acouple inches in circumference so the hat stays on; niceand snug. we're
gonna push this down all the way around pushing down our row sometimes i'm tight knitter, so it takes me a moment. we're going to go ahead and e-wrap (ew)this first stitch. and then now that we have this beginning strand back here, and what i want is to have thisbeginning strand, because it's coming out this peg here,its gonna go on to our next peg so i'm going to now grab it and use itat the same time with my working strand
and i'm going to e-wrap around. and on this particularpart only i wanna make tight. because i want to makesure that's not going anywhere so make sure that's tight these two onesare tight and he draws this together so it's more seamless. so continue going around. and once you got a goodamount of pegs going, this little straggler here is just going to lay back and you end up either weaving it intothe back of you're hat or you can actually cut it off at thatpoint. because its locked in. its not going
anywhere but this is your first time ever loom,you'll find that he making hats like this are very easy and they're great fordonating to hospitals but you can start increasing yourknowledge and skills by learning new stitches good ahead and knit all these over. and as youlearn new stitches and develop you'll be able to branch out in lots of other projects. learning how to do hat is essential to learning how to loom knit
but you can do as many complicated or un-complicate things on the loomsas you can do on needles (knitting) be sure and check out goodknitkisses youtube main channel:=page we have a playlist on their for beginner loom knit and it starts off a beginner stitches incasting on in binding of all the different terms and things andworks you all the way up into more comfortable to more techniqueso be sure and check that out and i'll bookmark be website forthat okay so we have gone and done
are cast on roe we done row wine in any rap all you can do is continuegoing around only im pushing these down making another roehirap you continue on into you get to acertain link now that certainly is determined by youand how big you want it for the baby you want now not sure how big they he's gonna be youcould make into regular newborn size or even jump it up into i'm with the three-month would be if youwant a newborn
i had that same 13 a 14 inch and normals head circumference the hatcircles gonna be eleven and a half inches to thirteeninches which works perfectly for this one then you want tohack height to be am five-and-a-half to six inches so we're gonna get are measuring tapefound here and we're going to pull it out until you're at five and half or sixinches and then you want to take your hat here market where the 0 is areyou concerned the top here
and i minister here and say six inches and start wherever your yarn is here and then hold it down and say i have to net until i get tothis point so on this is gonna start growing growinggrowing and is gonna get down here when you have the steam engine helps i'mdown like this you can see if it falls at the two i need two moreinches left in it now this hack can be and the brain canbe rolled up if you wanna make it for baby two forthree to six months you couldn't
make it from six-and-a-half 27 inchesfor the happy i wouldn't go in for them at earls it just looks really really big on a small baby so if you're giving itas a baby you're set because these are really easy to make you could make one that's a five incheslong and then make one that's i'm six and a half inches long into theactually had two hats they can grow as babies grow really quickly socontinue on and i'm gonna show you how to do thedraw string cast-off what you wanna do is continue euros
and then we're gonna pas your video andme back up when you're ready to cast of for buying of and that is how you takeyour work of have the needles are pics whicheverway you wanna call it these are pegs some people call me knowsbecause that's essentially what they are and i'm even at that very same and before we go just wanted to show you i'm netted are of all the way around thebush to the bottom with over-the-top now i'm back before my starter pack andjust make sure that your intake these bottom two strands
that was woven for from your beginning row and polos bottom too over the top okay and then that make sure that thoseare all on their so now that this part is locked and you could go ahead and safely cut themoff and just leave a little body part seeking out that's just fine this is theinside of your hat in this party here this is that outsiderhad so the stitches are gonna look like whatcomes out here
cell again push down euros you gonna do this every time you're finewhich way is more comfortable for you you can hold it whichever way one and just add answer aquestion that gets all the time when you're first startingout you can go either direction the point is you wanna always go in onedirection on that particular project were always go on this direction in one particular project if you'reneeding something in around i'm if there's special directions whereyou have to change directions then do
that by am you're just continue for oneproject in the same amount and you'll seedifferent people and videos going one way or another and it's really a matter what'scomfortable for them because the i had a mini and looks the same ok supply your radio and continuing into your designerdesired link and i'll meet you back
who were back and i have needed aboutfive inches for this hat here for demonstration purposes and you can itbegan to enter your desired length is so i stick my five-inch marker here and bring it down to the bottom in that where they had 0hits down at the bottom of this hat and as well as calling the right side ofthe work this is the finished in a pretty side and inside the backside of an e-wrap is a purl and you'll notice that thestitch looks different; that's the opposite
side and you can learn how to make that; so that is on the front side over here and it'll have a little bumpon it. a "purl" bump. so, this is what this looks like. now, i amusing a "super bulky" #6 a "super bulky" #6 and i can put that down the in the description below on the video [description]. in thedescription for the video but and let's say that these ladders, inbetween, let's say this is too "gappy" for you, and this one is just fine (the example shown) but..
but depending upon what youactually pick for yourself you may want to close that gap. so, oneway to do it is to add a third row of e-wraps and you are going to knit the bottom two over the top or you can knit one overthe top two loops. and so if you do one over two, then that will close thatgap for you. so now we are going to do a drawstring cast-off and essentially what it's going to do is pullthese together and bind it up. so this top partwill close inward and
actually makes a very bulky top. it's going to look bulky like this. if you wanna make a smoother top, we're doing decreasecrown, so stick around after we do the drawstring and i'll put this back on and show you how tomake it more of a smooth decrease. we're going to take our workingstrand. go around the loom and we're gonna cut it. now, we've got our working strand comingfrom this last peg we want to put it in between the lastpeg and the first peg
and take our loop here, take our knitting tool, and put it between this loop hear andscoop up this loose working strand and pull it allthe way through. see? and then now we are gonna do the next thing.you're gonna put the working strand below this next loop and we're gonna pick it up and pull it on through. and when you learn it this way you are learning actually how to do a purl stitch because this is the sameway the "purl" stitch is performed.
you actually pick it up and pull it through and then you would remove this loop offand then put this loop back on and then pull it back taut (firm but not tight). and then that actually creates the purlstitch but as i stated before i've got a nice slow video on how to makethe purl stitch on the loom, so be sure and check that video out in the "beginning loom knitting" playlist we're going to continue going all theway around the loom
you want to pick up all your stitches now;some people cut an extra strand and and then they as thread it through with a tapestry needle. in fact, a lot instructionswill say it that way personally, i don't think you need that. -having to thread different kinds ofyarns don't necessarily go through the needle very well, like this kind of strand doesn't go through the needle very well, andthen you end up having 3 loose ends, 3 cut (frayed) ends, like this to deal with at the end rather than just
this one now because this is a (lion brand) homespun product, it's what we call a chenille. it has one little line. of thread, in between, and then all the extra "roving" type material, this fluffy material, and so the end can become frayed and you may want a knot. put a little knot on it or leave yourself a long enough tail so that when you're done pulling thestrings through...and see how this busted up?.. when you're done pulling the strands through,you're gonna need to make a knot so that it doesn't get too out of control
you're coming to the beginning here i'm going to pull this last one through. and if youdidn't go far enough around the loom it's okay go ahead and take off these off the peg and then it will allow you topull on this strand to get more length here. so, you can actually take these of the loom; and the easy way todo is to take your knitting tool and pop it off like that. you're going to pop all these off the pegs.
and then we're done, we're gonna drawstring and pull this closed, and it seals it up. then you're going to knot it and then weave it through the middlepart. i have a video for weaving that through (finishing a hat) so if you wanna watch that video moreclosely [you can]. i'm gonna go ahead and put these back on here and show you how to do thedecreased bind off. [pause your video to dee decrease or see other video for finishing a hat]. i'm going to tie on this new color here,because i've already run out room, because i was trying todo the drawstring method and this
basically broke on me, and so i'm gonnashow you how to change colors and you can weave them in together, butit can create a bulkiness if you're goingfrom the same color to color; but what if you are changing colors so i'm gonna go ahead and tie this on and get it back to the back of this last peg here and then make another loop around to get this square knot here and i tie it right behind
the peg and so that's gonna fall on theback-side of this stitch or inside the loom; and now i cancontinue on my way and wrapping around. and thatknot is gonna secure it. some people don'tlike knots and there's different methods to tie it on. you just pick the method thatworks best for you i know that the knot isn't gonna goanywhere and on this particular project and it's not going to be seen. sowe're gonna go ahead and e-wrap all the way around in continuein our design but for right now i'm gonna show you howto
do the decreased bind-off and what we're gonna do is markall of our pegs in sections and we're gonna have foursections we got a 24 peg loom here and we're going to have and sections of 6; so marked the first pegas "1" i'm moving this way(to the left) you can go this way, it doesn't really matter, but the first peg is "1"... 2, 3, 4, 5, 6. and then i mark "1" peg for the next section, mark itagain,
do the "1" peg and then i've got another "1"back here and so we have four sections of six. so, we want to take our knittingtool and move our number "2", all of our"evens" (even #s) are going over to the "odds" but we're just going on this first round the evens to the odds 2 to 1; so just the 2s to the 1s. [twos go to the ones-describing the peg numbers in each section] move to the next section and we're gonnado the twos to the ones move over. now when you do move these over,
be sure and just unwind, you're going to go in a clockwise (cw) clockwise (cw) fashion with your pick andunwind this stitch and un-twist this e-wrap here andi'll make it a lot easier for you for moving it over. so continue around and we'll meet backup okay we're back and we've got all thesemoved over. we are going to wrap this next row and whenever you come to a skipped peg youcan skip it and then go ahead and wrap the next one. so, yougot to here and this will have a wrap on it; andwhenever we come back i'll show you how to knit
those off (knit off = work the stitch) okay we're going to knit over and we'vegot three loops on this peg and we are going to lock it in;we're going to take the bottom loops over the top so these bottom two loopsare gonna go over this top loop okay and that's now locked and you cango around the loom now and knitting the bottom loops over the topand locking all those in. finish knitting over and wewill come back and do the next decreased row [pause video]....all right, great job! you have finished the first row of thedecreased crown
we're going to move the 4 peg over to the 3. go ahead and unwind and move it over for the next section and take the 4 over the 3 do this in each section and then you'll see that you have ineach section two empty pegs. go ahead and wrap over just the onesthat have a loop on a peg now we've got all that done and we're gonna knit over;this peg here only has one on it
and this one right hear, which was gonna be a number three; we're gonna knit theseover and if it's to tight, like this one here, gonna knit those separately. doesn'tmatter,you get the same result. okay we're on our last section. we'regoing to take the 6 peg and and move it over to the 5. and seei'm just going in a different direction here so that you don't have to be so governed on which way you go (knitting off i mean) okay so if you notice
you got something on every other peg. sowe've now gone 24-pegs; go ahead and wrap these around, the onesthat have a loop on there, we're going to take 24 pegs and we've gone down to 12pegs. so you have decreased your peg count by half ok now that you've done that, we're gonna goahead and and knit over after this row we're done. we're gonna doa drawstring bind off. and now you have half the amount of pegs that you need to go through the loops! so it makes that part easier.
it does take a little more effort to dothis decreased crown. if you're not ready, just to drawstringand, you know, try this whenever you're ready.if you want to try it on my "granny round" video you can try that because it's the same technique. so we're going to measure all theway around the loom with our working strand, and go ahead andcut off and we're going to going to drawstring this. so we're going to pickup the working strand up through, the bottomof this loop, and you can do it from the
top down, too. just do it the same way the entire wayaround the loom. if you don't, it's not gonna drawstringproperly. i'm coming to my last peg here. go ahead and pull it on through and if you find that you're too short on here (the yarn) again, you can take these off (the pegs) and then you can shorten up the drawstring. so, go aheadand pull all these loops off the peg they're safe now, not going anywhere.
okay i'm going to pull this off and take our strand okay, we've got our drawstring, now we'rejust gonna pull it. and before we finish, go aheadand put your drawstring on the inside, okay? and flip it inside out. now this is the part where i had tied on showing you tying on another color, or fixing another strand [earlier in the video] so we're just gonna go ahead and pull this drawstring shut, just like a pair pants or something
and we're going to tie a knot. just asimple knot will do because it's on the inside the hat if you wanted to you could just tie the knot cut it off. but it's best toget it to go through it several points with thetapestry needle and make sure that it's really in theirgood. you can thread a tapestry needle and go in and out of here several times.i have a video on how to do that and what i wanna show you is, lets say i gotit tight enough then i'm actually going to cut this andlet it just stay inside here
because no one will see that. and now flip it inside and out (again) and i wanna show you what this looks like see how this is nice and smooth? itdoesn't have any extra crumpled or bulkiness. it's not bumpy. normally the drawstring would looklike this so this is nice and smooth; and then i want you to see the rolled edge here. this rolled edge here is this rolled edge here is ....this is a "nobrim" (brimless) or "rolled" brim this is a brimless hat and it has this edge here.
people can roll it up. now it has this rolling effect because it's an e-wrap stitch. and this is just a great littlebasic first hat to learn..and also to give as a gift. (preemie & newborn 24 peg) again, you can make them different lengths, and accommodate a different baby size head if you want a larger hat for largerbaby (30 or 31 peg) you can step it up to a 30 or 31 pegloom for a bigger circumference and for anadult you can just put in this 36 peg loom
or there's actually a 48 peg loom fromknifty knitter, now it is discontinued, but all these different looms will makedifferent size hats; it is the same technique for this if you look up online it will show youdifferent hat lengths that you might need. so i thank you very much. and also keepin mind there are other brands out there this just happens to be what i have if you wanna learn how to do the(easier) decreased bind off (another video) or the "decreased crown" (as shown here) look for my other videos on thesedifferent looms. i hope that helps you today
thanks again for joining me at goodknitkisses. have a great day and happy looming! don't forget tosubscribe and also check out our facebook page for our goodknitkisses loom knit and craft club for 24/7 of experience of other loomers and crafters out there,willing to help you and have fun posting your photos! bye-bye!

Knitting Machine Repair Services

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now you all consider me a pretty snappy dresserof course. but being that i have the top half of the wardrobe all dialed in, i started thinking,i’ve got to have something great to wear below. and i thought, hey, what about hotpants? but even though i’m a big fan of 70’s music, i wasn’t into pleather. butlook what i came up with. can you believe it? see i told you they were hot. and of course,this new fantastic fabric from michael miller. it’s a border print called flames. it wasmy inspiration. and i just couldn’t resist making this cool pair of pants out of it.now, i want you to focus in today’s tutorial on the actual construction. of course you’regoing to need some sort of a pj pant pattern.

if you’ve got one you like, just use that.like i said, we’re talking construction today. and this is the one i’ve used foryears. it’s from cindy taylor oates. and it’s sew easy pajama pants. and the thingi liked about it was all the sizes were in the book, right? you’ll also need a littlebit of a non-rolling, let me say that again, a non-rolling elastic. that keeps it comfortableon your waistband. and don’t worry, i’ve already filled out your shopping list. allof these supplies are available at msqc. and there’s a link in the description below.let’s get moving into the actual pattern so you know what to do next. let me get thisstuff out of our way. the fun thing with cindy’s book is all ofthe pattern sizes are all full size but in

order to save them all, i’m going to encourageyou to go in and pop your staples out if you’re working out of a book. and go ahead and removethe pattern entirely, right? and safely without damaging the book. once you’ve got thattaken care of the next key is to find it. now pj pants come with a front leg and a backleg and the cut is different so you’re going to be making them individually. and for me,i am a size medium for this particular pant. and i actually took a pair of pj’s thati love and laid it on top of my pants first just to kind of get an eyeball. somethingthat i already knew fit versus something i’m going to try to make fit, right? of coursethis is not a pair of suit slacks either so we have a little bit of wiggle room. now onceyou have it all taken out of the book, this

would happen to be a two page, so you’regoing to find the lower back and the upper back. there’s a nice grain line and thenmark these together. you can tape them or pin them if you need. what i really, reallywant you to hear is don’t cut into this. please do not cut into this. the best wayto do this is now to take a piece of butcher paper or the wonderful pattern tracing paper.lay it out on top. you’ll notice i even put the straight of grain mark. straight ofgrain, while working with garment, is very important because it keeps everything flowingcorrectly. especially if you’re dealing with print and/or stuff that has nap. so somethingelse to consider being that we’re focused on construction today, right? so i’ve gotmy straight of grain. i’ve got this all

traced. this now becomes the working patternfor the size medium. this i can put all the other sizes still together which is fantasticbecause my kids want pj’s too of course. now once that’s done, check this out. now that you have your particular size alreadyprepared, and as i said, you have a back and you also have a front. we’re going to goahead and cut out both legs at once on our fabric. so let me just go ahead and slidethis part now out of the way because i’ve already got those ones cut out. i’ll bringthem into camera in just a moment. something kind of important here. you want to go aheadand fold your fabrics right sides together. as you can see we’re looking at the backside of this fabric, right? and then i’ve

also laid it straight of grain. here’s mygrain line. and i also have the straight of the pattern along the straight open edge andthe fold over here to maximize scraps. sometimes these scraps could be used for pockets orother parts of any kind of project obviously. one of the things i actually really like aboutpj pants, these ones have no pockets and no fly so i don’t even call them pj pants.i call them my yoga pants. now, i’m just going to go ahead and cut this with my rotarycutter. of course, scissors work nice. and if you’re using a pattern at home that haslittle notches or triangles along the edge, don’t cut those off. those are there fora reason. it helps you get things lined up. ok, now one of the things we’re also goingto be doing in today’s tutorial, is we’re

going to be setting up to do french seams.so as i’m cutting this a little bit wonky, it doesn’t have to be exactly perfect onthe edges because it’s going to be hidden and bound within those french seams, ok? somethingelse to point out real quick. i did pin my pattern to my fabric so it wasn’t shiftingas i was working. and the last thing i want to do is i’m going to go ahead and grabmyself a sharpie marker. and on the inside or the wrong side of the fabric, at the verytop, i’m going to go ahead and label front or at least an f and front again. i once madea pair of pants and it had such a high waist set up for the elastic, i accidentally stitchedthe pockets down into the calf. that will be a tutorial for another day. not one i recommenddoing.

but once i have that all dialed in and labeledso that i can keep all my parts and pieces together, we’re going to start by stitchingour inseams together of a front panel and a back panel. and so we’re going to do itbecause we’re doing french seams we’re going to start with our right sides out. socheck this out, i’m going to set aside one of my fronts right now, ok? and then i’mgoing to find the matching back piece. it comes in here, and when i say matching i meanit’s going to match in the crotch. and because this is now both right sides up, that is thewrong piece. this is. so this comes in real nice like here, ok? and i’m lining up boththe bottom edge and the crotch. we’re just going to do just from the bottom up to thepoint where it would meet. we’re going to

come over here and with a quarter inch seamallowance, i’m going to stitch on the right sides of the fabrics to create that frenchseam start up. ok, so just a nice, really petite seam allowance. and i’m going togo ahead and stitch this on both legs. now that the second leg is done, we’re goingto go ahead and join both pieces to build that front or rear crotch seam. so when wedid a front and back the first time, now you’re looking for your front and front. and it’sgoing to be this horseshoe in here. and yes, you’re doing all of the raw edging firstand then we are doing the french seam final. so by laying in here, it looks correct butmy double check is, it says front. it says front. it says back and back. so i am actuallysewing the correct pieces together. still

with that quarter inch seam allowance andstill on the right sides of the fabrics or wrong sides together right now. so we’restill prepping to be able to do french seams and that’s going to be the next step rightafter this. alright, i have that crotch seam all joined,front and back now. and this is where it starts to form like a giant h. and we’re goingto go ahead and do our french seams. so one of the things i want to go ahead and do ispress nice and crisp. and the french seam is done by sewing now the right sides togetherwith a larger seam allowance. so let me see if i can get you a good angle on this, ok?and i’m getting my iron nice and heated up. and i’m kind of rolling with my fingers,kind of pre-pressing this to the edge here.

just like that. now a lot of times, and ofcourse you all know that i’m much more of a quilt maker than a garment guy, that’swhy we’re starting on pajama pants, right? but garment construction is really best suitedat a little slower pace, lots of pins, lots of pressing, lots of clean cutting, right?so if you want your stuff to really fit nice you should take the time and do it correctly.ok, so i’m setting that seam. now that i have it all pressed nice and crisp, we’regoing to do that french seam with a half inch seam allowance. and we’re going to up theinseam back around first and then we’re going to press and do the crotch second. soit’s a two-part format. and i’m just using the stitch plate on my machine so that i havenow about a half of an inch. so as i start

going here. let me show you how this finishesout. here’s a good close up of those french seamsalready finished. now you can see, it’s enclosed all of the raw edge something andas i wash these, they’re going to wear perfectly. so again, up the inseam first. and then icame around the crotch seam of course. and you can see that i’ve even caught that inthere. that doesn’t make anything that will be uncomfortable or anything. so that is alldone. the inseam, crotch, all finished, ready to go. next step is going to go ahead andthis trick i love. we’re going to the bottom of the legs before we put them together sowe don’t have to use the free arm of the machine later on.

so what i’m trying to say, and because iwas doing a border print i maximized the length of my fabric for my pattern. i’m using theselvedge. of course, a lot of folks, your pants will finish looking like this. you won’thave used the selvedge but i needed it for my size. the selvedge is not going to unravelso i’ve just folded it up and i’ve double stitched it here. let me show you. so i’vetaken that raw edge, once the french seam was done. and i like to, as i said, presswith every step when i’m doing garment. so we’re going to give this a nice littlesecurity push there. a little heated push. now i’m going to go back to the sewing machine.and i first do a stitch across the top edge. and then i’m going to do a stitch acrossthe bottom edge and that is simply just to

make it look cool, a little decoration there.now one of the wonderful things about some sewing machines, you’ve been asking in thecomments, i’ve seen it. look at this thing. i’m talking at regular pace but i’m sewingin caffeinated mode. that’s right the baby lock jane comes with a built in caffeinatedmode. the button is not labeled correctly but i’m pretty sure it’s caffeinated mode.so again, back to the bottom here to make it look cool. and this will definitely finishthe bottom leg. and the bonus thread cutter. so just like that it’s finished. super,super easy. next step of construction and take the timeto unpack it all so you get it right. is going to be set up for french seams on the outerleg seam well. so i’m turning it again right

sides out. or wrong sides together. and i’mgoing to join down here starting at the bottom. and this time i’m going to be able to goall the way from the bottom of the leg and all the way up to the top so it ends up righthere. i’m just kind of organizing it as i get ready to put it into the sewing machine.and again because it’s a french seam, it’s that narrow seam allowance, like a quarterof an inch to start and we’ll finish with a half inch seam allowances. here we go. ok, now that the second leg is all stitchedtogether as well, you should have something that looks an awful lot like this. we getto turn it back to wrong sides out to finish the outer seam with a french seam again. andthen all we have to still finish up is our

waistband, which is going to be super easyas well. so the french seam, as a reminder, is going to be that half inch seam allowance. alright as i’m finishing that second outerseam with a french seam, i don’t know if i pointed out earlier or not but we are certainlyusing polyester thread in today’s tutorial. i like poly threads for my garment work, correct.now it is time for the waistband. and the waistband is going to be two simple steps.the first step, i am going to finger turn and then press with my iron here in a second.just about a quarter inch under. that’s going to hold that raw edge in place whilei build the casing for the elastic. a lot of you may have, i’ll be talking while we’repressing here. a lot of you may have a pj

pant pattern which actually allows for a drawstringas well. so at this point if you’re using a drawstring in the construction of yours,you’re probably putting in some sort of buttonhole. that buttonhole will allow thedrawstring to come out. make sure you’re putting it in the front of your pants. nothingis harder than tying your pants behind your back, right? and there’s also some otherfun elastics out there i know especially with some of the ladies pants, they’re actuallyjoining the elastic on the outside nowadays of the pants. so there’s all kinds of waysto do your waist. and again i’m just setting this little seam. it’s just going to holdeverything in place while we get ready to build that casing to put our elastic in. oncewe have that tacked in most places, we’re

going to head back over to the sewing machineand we’re going to go all the way around. we don’t need to leave any openings in thispart. it doesn’t have to be too pretty either. the top edge should be prettier than the bottomedge. the top edge here better than the bottom edge down here. the other things that this stitch is doingis helping secure those side seams so they won’t get in the way of our elastic and/orour drawstring when we’re feeding them through later on. so that’s another reason i liketo do this. and also sewing around this top band is kind of like the great equalizer toareas where maybe it was a little bit longer at the finish than one of the other sides.again, this will never show as the finished

product but it’s a nice way to make it allnice and smooth. as we’re getting ready to set that top casing. ok, and while we’rehaving follow up information, i bet you i forgot to tell you i pre-washed this fabrictwice before i ever cut it out. and that’s also another fantastic rule of thumb whenyou’re doing garment as well. so you want to find about an inch and a half roll down.i’m using about an inch wide elastic. i don’t want it real tight in there. i wantit to be able to gather nicely. so i’m coming down about an inch and a quarter, inch anda half. and my thumbs and my fingers right now are grabbing the seam allowances on thesides of the legs or those outer seams. so that’s helping me keep everything nice andsecure. then i’m going to come over here

to the, the machine. now if you have a freearm on your sewing machine, this would actually be a great time to go ahead and have thatfree arm off so it’s a little easier. i don’t have a free arm on this machine sowhat i’ve done is i’ve tucked the bottom fabric underneath. i want to make sure i onlyam sewing the layers i want to be sewing. i’ve gone about an inch down from the casing.and i’m going to leave an opening to slide the elastic in in the front of the pant. andi’m actually adjusting myself right now because i don’t want to leave the openingover the inseam for the crotch because it just makes life a little difficult later onwhen i’m pulling the elastic through. ok, i am ready to now build the casing. i’mgoing to take a couple stitches. and we’re

going to be trying these on. so i backstitchto hold it secure. and this seam really does count. notice the pace i’m stitching atis definitely slowed down. this one is important so we want it to look really nice. we’regetting ready to approach the opening that we’re going to leave to slide our elasticin, just to point out one of the things i’m really doing with my fingers is making surethat my seam from the french seam is pressed nice and flat as i stitch over it so i’mnot creating a wall inside of there so it’s hard to push the elastic through. and i’mgoing to leave about a two inch opening. and i’m going to do some backstiching and cutthat thread. and now it is time to go ahead and put the elastic in. once the elastic isin, i want to try these on so i’m turning

them right sides out. let’s do it like this.and then i want to go ahead and open my elastic. now for sizing your elastic, and you neverask a lady her age, and you don’t ever ask anyone their waist size so simply take thesize pair of pants you like, cut your elastic to that length. you don’t have to put thatin the comments below. you’re going to start with it long so it’s easy to fit. and thenwe’re going to size it down on location. i will take them back off to stitch it closedof course. so our big old safety pin. here’s a two-part trick, if you’ve never fed elasticinto a casing before, i would like you to try this trick as well. first we’re goingto start by pinning the elastic that you’re not using that side, to the outside of thepant. so that you don’t pull it all the

way through. now i’m going inside of thecasing with the bigger safety pin and i’m just going to start working this through.and it’s ok if it bunches up and pull. bunch and pull. we’re going to go ahead and trythese on. size them just right. so remember i told you to start with your waist size.and if you start with elastic at your waist size, it’s not going to hold your pantsup, ok? so once you have it there, you’re going to sneak into your pants. once they’reon, come back to the front and get that union of the two pieces of elastic. and now youcan start to cinch it up until it fits nicely, the way that you want it to hold, alright?at that point you will be making an adjustment to the elastic itself. and so what i do isusually it’s about three or four inches

that you’re going to lose. so i’ve alreadyfigured it out, i need that much cut off, ok? now what i’m going to do is i’m justgoing to put these two seams. make sure that your elastic has not twisted around, ok? i’mgoing to come over to my sewing machine and secure these two pieces of elastic. if i canreach it, oh ya, thumbs down and everything. just need a little stitching at first. ofcourse i’ll backstitch to really hold that. and i’ll do it on the other end of the tailalso. right here. drop that presser foot again and just stitching the elastic only i’mhoping. and a backstitch, fantastic. so the elastic is now secure at the perfect sizeto hold your pants up. it goes back into the casing. i take all the extra fabric and massageit out of the way. and now i’m just going

to finish this stitching by machine. and i’mdoing my best to not stitch on the elastic itself. i want my elastic to be able to travelnicely. topstitching this closed. now that that casing is closed, you have one of thecoolest pair of hot pants in town. as a matter of fact, not only could you wear these allaround town but feel free to slide into them, kick back on the couch and we’ll see younext time here at man sewing.

Knitting Machine Embroidery Designs

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this tutorial is going to be a crochet baby dress i am estimating the size for 3-9 months there is some shaping around the arm area we will be starting with this section right here making a chain of 23. i will be using 4 ply yarn in a size i 5.5mm crochet hook. take the loose end, wrap it over the main strand now you have a loop, take the loop, wrap it over the main strand put your hook below the center strand back up the opposite side this creates the slip knot.

work a chain of 23 (1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10,11,12, 13,14,15,16,17,18,19,20,21,22,23) work one single crochet through each chain across you will have a total of 22. (1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10,11,12,13, 14,15,16,17,18,19,20,21,22) this completes row 1 we will turn. i chose not to work a chain one on the sides. you can work a chain one if you would like to, just make sure you count. rows 2-5 will be one single crochet in each stitch across. that's (1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10,11,12,13, 14,15,16,17,18,19,20,21,22) going to turn. row 3 will be the same. i am not work a chain one i'm just working one single crochet in the first stitch and in each stitch across

we will continue with the remaining 3 rows, rows 3-5 will be one single crochet in each stitch across for a total of 22. i'm over here on the edge of row 3 and i wanted to show the last two stitches this is where i did not work the chain one and you can still see the stitch. this is stitch 21. and this is stitch 22 and what this does by eliminating the chain one it makes the edge a little bit more snug and less loose and i like the finish of the edge by not working the chain one. it is important to count so you don't lose track of your stitches. i still have 22. i'm going to turn

this is row 4 and continue working one single crochet in each stitch across for a total of 22 through rows 4 and 5 row 6, turn, work one single crochet in the first stitch work an increase. 2 single crochet in the next stitch. one single crochet in each of the next eighteen. (1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10,11,12,13, 14,15,16,17,18) two single crochet in the next stitch work one single crochet in the last stitch

we will have a total of 24 single crochet on row 6. we will turn row 7 will be one single crochet in each stitch across for a total of 24. this is what it looks like through row 7 i have completed 24 single crochet row 8 we will turn, work the first single crochet work 2 single crochet in the next stitch for the increase. work 1 single crochet in each of the next 20 stitches (1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10,11,12,13, 14,15,16,17,18,19,20) 2 single crochet in the next stitch for the increase

work 1 single crochet in the last stitch there will be a total of 26 single crochet on row 8 we will turn to start row 9 work one single crochet in each stitch across for a total of 26 this is through row 9 26 single crochet. we will turn row 10 will have 28 we will have one increase on each side work the first single crochet work 2 single crochet in the next stitch for the increase. this is row 10

work one single crochet in each of the next 22. that's work 2 single crochet in the next stitch for the increase work one single crochet in the last stitch here on the edge we have completed 28 single crochet on row 10. we will turn row 11 will be one single crochet in each stitch across for a total of 28 that's (2,3,4,5,6,7,8) continue across for a total of 28 single crochet. we will turn row 12 will be 30 single crochet work one single crochet in the first stitch.

work 2 in the next stitch that is the increase work 1 single crochet in each of the next 24 that's (2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10,11,12,13, 14,15,16,17,18,19,20,21,22,23,24) work the increase working two single crochet in the same stitch work the final single crochet we have completed row 12 for a total of 30 single crochet work one single crochet in each stitch across for a total of 30 single crochet on row 13 that's (2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10) continue across to the opposite side.

i have completed row 13. we have 30 single crochet and you can see the shaping that is taking place that is this section right here just to this point below the arm wrap the yarn over, pull through cut the yarn pull through, give it a tug. we will set this piece aside and work on the back section. this is going to show the back we will make 2. this is the front

this will be the back we will start with a chain of 12 (1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10,11,12) work one single crochet in each chain across (1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10,11) turn row 2 work one single crochet in each stitch across turn. rows 3-5 will be one single crochet in each stitch across for a total of 11. rows 3-5

with this section which is on the back, creating the opening we will only be increasing on one side row 6 we will turn, work one single crochet in each of the next 9 that's (1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9) work 2 single crochet for the increase. that's (10, 11) and then 12 will be in the last stitch work one single crochet in each stitch across for a total of 12 row 7 row 8 we will turn work one single crochet in each of the next 10 stitches (1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10)

an increase which is (11,12) and then 13 will be in the last single crochet row 9 will be one single crochet in each stitch across for a total of 13 that's (1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10,11,12,13) work one single crochet in each of the next 11 an increase (12,13) 14 in the last stitch that completes row 10 there are a total of 14 single crochet on row 10 work one single crochet in each stitch across for a total of 14 on row 11. that's (2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10,11,12,13,14)

row 12 will be one single crochet in each of the next 12 stitches in the next stitch will be an increase for (13,14) (15) in the last single crochet row 13 will be one single crochet in each stitch across for a total of 15 that's (2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10,11,12,13, 14,15) at this point you should have 2 sides for the back one piece for the front at this point we will be working in rounds and attaching all these pieces together going to turn work one single crochet in each of the next 15 stitches

(1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10,11,12,13, 14,15) i am attaching with a single crochet in the first single crochet like this there will be 30 single crochet across this section i worked the first one that's (2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10,11,12,13, 14,15,16,17,18,19,20,21,22,23, 24,25,26,27,28,29,30) this is what it looks like at this point we are attaching the last section which is this part right down here where we have a little point and this straight section is where we will join i am attaching with a single crochet there will be 15 total now we want to join so we need to even these up.

make sure they're all going in the right direction like that we'll flip this one over like this this is front, this is the back i want to join and i'm putting my hook right below the two loops at the top of the stitch, wrap the yarn over pull through the loop on the hook. i have joined all 3 pieces together in one piece we have a total of 60 single crochet. we will work a chain 1 work the first single crochet row 15 will be one single crochet in each stitch around for a total of 60

you will continue around working the last single crochet and joining with the first single crochet i am working with a different color. the top part of this dress is identical to this dress. i will be adding on a different skirt section. this section will show how to attach the straps. the one on this side will be attached right here. we will be working over 6 single crochet

the one on this side will be attached counting back 6 single crochet to the inside and attaching right here and i'm going to show how to attach this one first with the front side facing me i'm going to count back (1,2,3,4,5,6) and attach right through here. work a chain one and i'm single crocheting right over the stitches that's (2,3,4,5,6) and i actually worked right over the single crochet i'm going to turn i am not working a chain 1 i'm working 6 single crochet

(1,2,3,4,5,6) work 6 single crochet there will be a total of 17 rows for the strap i have finished the 17th row this is approximately how long it is and i'm going to pull through a little bit extra for attaching to the back side now i'm going to turn this inside out working on the inside this is the right sides facing i'm going to be working through each of the six single crochet on both sides, joining them together.

this is what it looks like on the front side. i'm going to go through one more time and i want to make sure it's nice and secure. make a knot and i like to make a second knot and you can weave the tail back through to the opposite side and then cut the tail off this is what it looks like on the back this is what it looks like on the front you will repeat the same steps on this side.

the only difference is we are attaching right on the edge. work one single crochet in each of the six single crochet that's (2,3,4,5,6) continue working until you have 17 rows and you will attach to the back side the same way going to work a chain 4 we will be working 3 double crochet right below these loops i am putting my hook below this loop, this loop and this is how the stitch looks like if we were putting it straight from the top. this is how i'm working the stitch we will be working three double crochet

(1,2,3) skip one stitch, work a single crochet in the next stitch chain 4 work 3 double crochet in the same stitch skip a stitch work one single crochet in the next stitch, chain 4 (1,2,3,4) work 3 double crochet in the same stitch work one single crochet in the next stitch chain 4

continue around to the beginning working a single crochet, chain 4, 3 double crochet in the same stitch skip a stitch, single crochet there will be a total of 30 stitches i am working on the last stitch working the three double crochet i am going to join down here at the base of the very first stitch this project we're going to turn now i'm on the inside i'm going to work a slip stitch up into the chain 4 space and i'm putting my hook below the two loops at the top of the stitch

wrap the yarn over pull through and i'm doing this with all three stitches and i'm working a slip stitch into the chain 4 space and you see i'm putting my hook right here going to work a chain 1 work a single crochet in the chain 4 space work a chain 4 work the 3 double crochet through the top of the stitch work a single crochet in the next chain 4 space work a chain 4, work the three double crochet chain 4,

work the three double crochet in the same stitch (2,3) work a single crochet through the chain 4 space work 3 double crochet work a single crochet through the chain 4 chain 4 work 3 double crochet in the same chain 4 space work a single crochet in the next chain 4

to the beginning there will be a total of 30 working this set of stitches. you will work 11 rounds total for the skirt portion of the dress i have completed the last stitch, i'm going to join the round here at the base of the first stitch putting my hook pull though, pull through the loop on the hook. yarn over one more time. i've already cut my yarn so i'm going to pull through and give it a tug this is what the dress looks like at this point i have a button that i am going to attach to the back side opening i am going to make sure that i am on the right side

when i attached the straps i attached them on the inside and i can see that this is the inside of my work i want to attach on the inside like this i am going to run my yarn through the stitches i don't want to pull it all the way through. i'm going to go right about here and make a knot and i have a little bit showing and i can pull it like that and it will pull it on in. i want to align my button on the outside like this.

put my needle up right about here i am on the outside of my work now going to align the button right here. you can align the button anywhere you want to put it there's no specific place just use your imagination creating the opening and embellishing the dress i'm going to run my needle through. and i'll only need to do this 3 or 4 times and i'm going to put it through the stitches, through the button like this

i don't want to pull it too tight i'm going to continue putting through a couple more this is my last one going to run my needle to the inside like this working on the inside i want to make a knot and then weave the tail between the stitches like this working on the inside and then go over strand back in the opposite direction just like this

cut off the yarn this completes attaching the button to the dress we are going to work a chain of 11 you can adjust this chain to make it larger or smaller to fit the size of your button i'm going to join with the beginning chain joining is putting my hook through the first chain wrap the yarn over, pull through, pull through the loop on the hook we have joined into a ring i'm going to work

one slip stitch around each chain just putting my hook through the chain wrap the yarn over pull through until i'm back around to the beginning this is to give it a little bit extra thickness and you don't have to do this if you don't want to. this is just something i like to do you can just use the chain or create your own type of loop i'm back around to the beginning, i'm going to join with the beginning chain yarn over, pull through and i'm going to pull through a little bit extra this is for attaching it

to the opposite side i'm going to place my ring right here working on the inside i want to make sure it's even i'm going to pull this over to the edge and put my needle through to the front and then i want to go over a couple strands through the chain to the inside like this and at this point you can check it out just to make sure everything is going to work properly like that this will give you an idea how it's going to look and you will continue attaching the ring to the inside

i'm going to make a little knot up here at the top, like that and then run my needle down here to the other side i'm going to attach the last few chains make a knot here. i'm still working on the inside i'm going to work through the stitches in the opposite direction now i'm going to skip over some threads, go back in the opposite direction like this. cut off the yarn i'm going to put the loop over the button subtitles by the amara.org community

This Is Knitting Machine Work

entrelac is this really cool technique thatends up looking like these woven blocks of color when youã­re finished. it isnã­t very difficult to work, itã­s actuallyreally fun to knit, but there are some unique things you have to know to be able to workit. in this tutorial, weã­re going to learn thisentrelac scarf, and this is a pattern by allison locicero from freckles and purls.com. if youã­dlike to download your free copy of this pattern to follow along, iã­ve left a link in thevideo comments just below the video, or you can find a link to the pattern on verypink.com,or over on frecklesandpurls.com. first up, weã­re going to learn how to getstarted with the base triangles of the scarf.

if youã­ve downloaded your free pattern youã­reready to get started, and the first thing weã­re going to do is to start with the basetriangles at the bottom of the scarf. but one thing i want to mention about theyarn that you choose for this. uhh, the pattern gives you a suggestion for a specific yarn,but really anything you use that is what i call long-strand dyed. this is a variegated yarn, thatã­s changingcolors on itã­s own throughout the scarf ã± i didnã­t do anything to knit them all differentcolors. and the way that works is the yarn is variegated.and instead of having little chunks, like an inch long of different colors, there areseveral feet of each color.

and there are, i would say, several differentyarn types out there that dye yarn like this. noro is the brand that allison uses in thepattern. and this is ã± i canã­t remember the nameof this yarn. but there are a lot of them out there dyed this way. it makes a big difference.it makes it look like blocks. like woven blocks, like iã­m sure you want them to look. okay, letã­s go ahead and take a look at whatweã­re starting with. these are the bottom base triangles, and thatã­sthe first thing weã­re going to do. the next thing we do is tier 1, which is thisleft side triangle, two middle squares, and a right side triangle.

and then tier 2 is these three squares. so, but right now weã­re down here. and iã­ve cast on most of the stitches already.iã­m using this solid color yarn because itã­s bulky, and i want you to be able to see whatiã­m doing. the pattern tells me to cast on 24, and iã­musing a long tail cast on. if youã­d like a review of the long tail caston, iã­ll give you a link here. whoops, i was one shy. there we go. oh ã± thereã­s one thing i donã­t have thatiã­m going to encourage you to use, is a row counter.

you can also do tally marks on a piece ofscratch paper, but you need to keep track of what row youã­re on while you work thisentire pattern. so row 1 of the base triangle tells me toknit one, and turn my work. so i knit one, and this might seem odd tosomeone who has never done this before. i did not work all the way across the row. i knit one stitch. and iã­m going to turnmy work, which means iã­m going to swap the hands the needles are in. okay? and then the next row, row 2, says to purlacross all stitches in this section. this section is only one stitch right now.

so, itã­s purl 1. click my marker ã± uh, my row counter. row 3 is slip one. and when you slip, you always put your needlein as if to purl, and then slide that stitch over to the right needle without working it. so, row 3 is slip 1, knit 1, turn the work. [click] then row 4 is just like all the wrong siderows, we purl back across the stitches in that section, which is purl 2.

row 5, slip 1, knit 2. you see with everyodd numbered row weã­re increasing by 1. row 6 is to purl across all three of the stitchesin this section. row 7 is slip 1, knit 3. so you get the gist of how this is going towork. each little section is knit separately. each of the base triangles, in this case,is worked separately. [click] [click] i forgot to click that there. whoops ã± oh! my yarn just landed in my coffee!

[laughs] i think i got it out quickly enough beforeit absorbed very much of it! thereã­s probably fuzz in my coffee now. row 11, slip 1, knit 5. now iã­m at row 12, we have six stitches inthis section. row 13, slip 1, knit 6. oh, i just came up to the part that landedin the coffee. the yarn is wet right there. oh, well. this sample will smell good, at least.

okay, and then row 15 is the last row of thistriangle, iã­m going to slip 1, knit 7. and i do not turn the work now. because iã­m going to move on to the nexttriangle. and to move on to the next triangle, we wantto set our counters back at zero, because weã­re starting with row 1 again. row 1 is knit 1 and turn work. and then row 2 is to purl back across allthe stitches in that section. now, keep in mind that thereã­s only 1 stitchin this section. you have a lot more stitches on the left needle,but row 2 is just purl 1.

and turn the work. row 3, slip 1, knit 1. row 4 is to purl across stitches in that sectionand there are just two. and thatã­s what i wanted you to get the gistof here. this was a little easier to think of whatã¬in this sectionã® means because we were working to the end of the row each time onthis right base triangle. the middle one, though, you have to rememberthat the first ã± these 8 stitches are finished. weã­re done with those. weã­re working on a new section.

and then the last triangle will be workedjust like the middle one was. so now that youã­ve got the base triangles,next up weã­re going to work on tier 1. now that you have your base triangles finished,letã­s start right in with tier 1. and again, tier 1 is a left side triangle,two middle squares, and a right side triangle. and here is my sample with the base trianglesfinished. this looks ridiculous. and everyone, uh [laughs] everyone who i workwith on entrelac, they always want me to look at their base triangles to make sure theydonã­t have something unique going on, because it looks so weird.

no, this is right. it looks this weird. so we have our row counter, and weã­re readyto start with a wrong side row. this is ã± first weã­re going to do the leftside triangle. and your pattern spells this out as well. row 1 is knit 1 and turn. and youã­re familiar with turning work beforeyou reach the end of the row now. so thatã­s no problem. row 2 is kfb and turn. and to work a kfb, itã­s called a knit frontback and itã­s a one stitch increase.

you put your needle in, wrap it and pull itthrough like a normal knit stitch, but donã­t take this old stitch off the left needle. instead, swing the tip of your needle aroundto the back loop of that stitch, wrap it, and pull it through. and then pull the old stitch off. youã­vejust increased by one. if you need a slower review of the kfb, iã­llgive you a link right here. row 3 is knit 1, purl two together, and turnthe work. row 4 ã± we have a new technique again. knit 1, and the pattern says m1 which standsfor ã¬make 1ã®.

and this is a one stitch increase, and todo it weã­re going to use the bar between two stitches. so you find this bar, pick it up from frontto back, and then knit it through the back loop. and then knit the last one. and if you need a slower review of the make1 stitch, iã­ll give you a link right here. row 5 is knit 1, purl 1, purl two together. row 6, and from now on, all of the right side,even numbered rows are knit up to the last stitch, make 1, and knit 1.

row 7 is knit 1 ã± and if you are paying attention,youã­ll see that the first stitch, the edge stitch, the very edge stitch on the scarfis always knit. and it gives us this, um, cool looking kindof twill edge, because the first stitch is in garter stitch. anywhere, where was i? i was on row 7 becausemy counter tells me. knit 1, purl 2, purl two together. and row 8 is going to be the same as the otherones. we knit up to the last stitch, make 1. oh, i should show you a little make 1 trick.

this is how i personally work make 1s. theresult is the same. i pick it up from front to back with my rightneedle, mainly because iã­m just more coordinated with my right hand. i pick it up from front to back with my rightneedle, hand it to my left needle, and then to get your needle in there, to knit it throughthe back loop can be tricky. to make it easier on myself, i stick my needlein the front loop, use my thumb to hang on to the yarn, and then flip it to the back. let me show you that again. i pick it up with my right needle, hand itto my left needle, put my right needle in

front, put my thumb here to secure the yarn,and roll the needle over to the back. then wrap it and pull it through. and 9, row 9 is going to be, knit 1, purl3, purl two together. turn work. whoops. row 11 is knit 1, should be purl 4, purl twotogether. row 13, knit 1, purl 5. okay, weã­re almost done with this triangle.i want to for sure show you how to work the center squares in this section.

okay this is row 15. knit 1, purl 6, purltwo together, do not turn work. okay. to move on to the middle square iã­mgoing to set my counter back to zero. because now the first part of the center squareis to pick up and purl stitches here along this edge. my working yarn is here, and you see a rowof nice double long vs, and thatã­s what weã­re going to pick up. if youã­ve done picking up and knitting before,itã­s very similar. picking up and knitting you go from frontto back like this. but because weã­re picking up and purling,weã­re going to go, using just the right needle,

from back to front under two legs of a v. you can see this row of vs. from back to frontunder two legs of a v, wrap the needle and pull it through to the back just like a purlstitch. under both legs, wrap it, pull it through. you know, i think i didnã­t start early enough.this count isnã­t coming out right. it should be easy to see and pick up 8 stitches.i donã­t think i started close enough. there we go. thereã­s one, two, three, four,five, six, nope didnã­t make a difference. but iã­ll work in 8 stitches, no problem. okay.

then at the very, after we pick up 8 stitches,we want to secure this at the bottom. so the next bit of instructions tells us totake the stitch off the right needle, slide it over to the left needle, and then purltwo together. and that secures things at the bottom of thesquare. okay that was row 1. we turn the work, and the right side rowsof this are easy. just knit 8. the wrong side rows are always going to bethe same from here on out. you slip 1, purl 6, purl two together, and turn the work. youã­ll repeat those two rows, keeping trackwith your counter, until this square is finished,

youã­ll work a second square here, exactlythe same, and then we move over to the right side triangle. and hereã­s my next sample of work here. the left side triangle, two middle squares,and to do the right side triangle itã­s no great mystery, youã­ll understand how to doit now that youã­ve worked, done the picking up and purling already. the first thing we do is we pick up and purl8. okay, then you turn the work. and the right side, the even numbered rowsin this section tells us to purl across all

of the stitches in this section. so this section is 8 stitches right now. did i say pick up and purl? if i did, i meantpick up and knit. or just knit across. one, two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight. then row 3 is slip 1, purl 6. what did i just do there? this is kind of good, because i just madea mistake here. iã­m pulling out these stitches i just did to figure out what i could havedone. two, four, six, eight.

slip one ã± what is going on? i think i seethis. the nice thing about this ã± when you makea mistake, your mistake is limited to whatever little section youã­re working on. so, if youã­re watching what youã­re doingwhen you go along, thereã­s no need to rip out inches and inches of work. letã­s try this again, slip 1. okay, the thing that i want to make a noteof here, all of the right side rows are telling you to knit everything in that section. but every time you come to a new right siderow, thereã­s going to be one stitch fewer.

thereã­s seven in here now after that knittwo together. and then, um, the next wrong side row iã­mgoing to work another decrease, so there will only be six. so do pay attention to your counter, and keepin mind how many stitches there are in that section that youã­re working so that you donã­taccidentally start working over here in this finished square. so that was tier 1. next up, weã­re goingto talk about tier 2. now weã­re going to go over how to work tier2 in the pattern. letã­s jump right into it. here we finished the base triangles and tier1, which is a left triangle, two center squares,

and the right triangle. let me hold that better. and, uh, weã­re left with one stitch fromthe right triangle. turn the work. that one stitch, i slipped it over on to thisneedle, itã­s actually supposed to be over here. iã­m sorry. [laughs] okay, so here is the stitch that i have leftover. weã­re going to pick up and knit now, 8 stitchesalong this edge here.

again, hereã­s my working yarn, hereã­s myone stitch left over, weã­re going to pick up and knit. and youã­ve already been picking up and purling,so picking up and knitting is actually an easier thing. when we do this, we count the one stitch thatwe have left here as the first stitch. and that only applies to this first square. so, to pick up and knit, you go in from thefront to the back under both legs of the v, wrap your needle and pull it through. under both legs of the v, from front to back.

let me double check this. two, four, six, eight. i picked up an extraone. two, four, six, eight. i probably didnã­tcount this one as my first stitch. now just like we did at the last tier, weã­regoing to secure things here at the bottom. iã­m going to slide that stitch from the leftneedle to the right, and then do an ssk. which is short for slip, slip, knit. iã­ll show you how that goes here really quickly.you put your needle in as if to knit in the first stitch, slip it over. put it in as ifto knit in the second stitch, slip it over. and then take the tip of your left needleand put it through the front of those two

stitches, wrap your needle and pull it through. and thatã­s a one stitch decrease. and if you need a more intense review of thessk, iã­ll give you a link right here. so that was row 1. we turn the work, row 2 is just a purl 8. row 3 is slip 1, knit 6. and then another ssk. slip, slip, knit andturn the work. and those are the only two rows you need toknow to work all three of these squares. youã­re going to pick up and knit along thesesides, and then work row 1 and row 2, keeping

track of what row youã­re on, of course, withyour counter. and so that tier actually goes pretty quickly. next up weã­re going to talk about doing thefinal tier triangles. if youã­ve made it this far in the scarf andyouã­re ready to work the final tier triangles, these triangles are going to be super easyfor you. youã­ve already done pretty much all of the techniques involved up to thispoint. letã­s take a look at these, anyway. here is my unblocked piece, and this wouldactually be huge if it was blocked. because iã­ve added an extra eight stitchesto this one. thereã­s an extra square here

in the middle if you can see that. but itã­s unblocked, so it ends up being justabout as wide as the blocked one. itã­s the exact same yarn in both. funny howdifferent it looks. okay for the final tier triangles you areset up here like this. and just like before weã­re going to pickup and knit 8 stitches along the selvedge edge. iã­m using a smaller sample here, but if youã­vemade it this far in the video, you are experienced at picking up and knitting by now! okay, and then like before, iã­m going toslip that stitch back over to the left needle

and ssk. and these rows, the wrong side rows are easy.weã­re just going to purl all the stitches in that section. and the stitches in the section are goingto get smaller with every right side row, because now iã­m going to start by knittingtwo together ã± whoops, i split that. knitting two together, third timeã– knit 5. ssk. and turn work.

and now there are seven stitches in this section. and thatã­s what i wanted to show you. and thereã­s one more technique i want toshow you. the very end of the final tier triangle thereã­ssomething called psso. weã­re not there yet, but iã­m going to usethis as an example to show you. row 15 of the pattern, if you want to takea look at that, it says slip 1, ssk, psso. okay? so iã­m going to slip one, you always slipas if to purl, ssk, and youã­re familiar with how to do that, and then iã­m going to passthe slipped stitch over.

thatã­s what psso stands for. take the stitch that you slipped, and passit over the other one like binding it off, and let go of it. iã­m going to undo that, because that doesnot go here in this section. it doesnã­t go here in the work right wherei am. i just wanted to make sure you understoodwhat psso stood for. i still have to finish this final trianglebefore i get down to row 15 to work that. anyway, thatã­s how to work the entrelac scarf. again, if you want your free copy of the pattern,itã­s available on frecklesandpurls.com, or

verypink.com. [music]

Knitting Machines Uk

entrelac is this really cool technique thatends up looking like these woven blocks of color when youã­re finished. it isnã­t very difficult to work, itã­s actuallyreally fun to knit, but there are some unique things you have to know to be able to workit. in this tutorial, weã­re going to learn thisentrelac scarf, and this is a pattern by allison locicero from freckles and purls.com. if youã­dlike to download your free copy of this pattern to follow along, iã­ve left a link in thevideo comments just below the video, or you can find a link to the pattern on verypink.com,or over on frecklesandpurls.com. first up, weã­re going to learn how to getstarted with the base triangles of the scarf.

if youã­ve downloaded your free pattern youã­reready to get started, and the first thing weã­re going to do is to start with the basetriangles at the bottom of the scarf. but one thing i want to mention about theyarn that you choose for this. uhh, the pattern gives you a suggestion for a specific yarn,but really anything you use that is what i call long-strand dyed. this is a variegated yarn, thatã­s changingcolors on itã­s own throughout the scarf ã± i didnã­t do anything to knit them all differentcolors. and the way that works is the yarn is variegated.and instead of having little chunks, like an inch long of different colors, there areseveral feet of each color.

and there are, i would say, several differentyarn types out there that dye yarn like this. noro is the brand that allison uses in thepattern. and this is ã± i canã­t remember the nameof this yarn. but there are a lot of them out there dyed this way. it makes a big difference.it makes it look like blocks. like woven blocks, like iã­m sure you want them to look. okay, letã­s go ahead and take a look at whatweã­re starting with. these are the bottom base triangles, and thatã­sthe first thing weã­re going to do. the next thing we do is tier 1, which is thisleft side triangle, two middle squares, and a right side triangle.

and then tier 2 is these three squares. so, but right now weã­re down here. and iã­ve cast on most of the stitches already.iã­m using this solid color yarn because itã­s bulky, and i want you to be able to see whatiã­m doing. the pattern tells me to cast on 24, and iã­musing a long tail cast on. if youã­d like a review of the long tail caston, iã­ll give you a link here. whoops, i was one shy. there we go. oh ã± thereã­s one thing i donã­t have thatiã­m going to encourage you to use, is a row counter.

you can also do tally marks on a piece ofscratch paper, but you need to keep track of what row youã­re on while you work thisentire pattern. so row 1 of the base triangle tells me toknit one, and turn my work. so i knit one, and this might seem odd tosomeone who has never done this before. i did not work all the way across the row. i knit one stitch. and iã­m going to turnmy work, which means iã­m going to swap the hands the needles are in. okay? and then the next row, row 2, says to purlacross all stitches in this section. this section is only one stitch right now.

so, itã­s purl 1. click my marker ã± uh, my row counter. row 3 is slip one. and when you slip, you always put your needlein as if to purl, and then slide that stitch over to the right needle without working it. so, row 3 is slip 1, knit 1, turn the work. [click] then row 4 is just like all the wrong siderows, we purl back across the stitches in that section, which is purl 2.

row 5, slip 1, knit 2. you see with everyodd numbered row weã­re increasing by 1. row 6 is to purl across all three of the stitchesin this section. row 7 is slip 1, knit 3. so you get the gist of how this is going towork. each little section is knit separately. each of the base triangles, in this case,is worked separately. [click] [click] i forgot to click that there. whoops ã± oh! my yarn just landed in my coffee!

[laughs] i think i got it out quickly enough beforeit absorbed very much of it! thereã­s probably fuzz in my coffee now. row 11, slip 1, knit 5. now iã­m at row 12, we have six stitches inthis section. row 13, slip 1, knit 6. oh, i just came up to the part that landedin the coffee. the yarn is wet right there. oh, well. this sample will smell good, at least.

okay, and then row 15 is the last row of thistriangle, iã­m going to slip 1, knit 7. and i do not turn the work now. because iã­m going to move on to the nexttriangle. and to move on to the next triangle, we wantto set our counters back at zero, because weã­re starting with row 1 again. row 1 is knit 1 and turn work. and then row 2 is to purl back across allthe stitches in that section. now, keep in mind that thereã­s only 1 stitchin this section. you have a lot more stitches on the left needle,but row 2 is just purl 1.

and turn the work. row 3, slip 1, knit 1. row 4 is to purl across stitches in that sectionand there are just two. and thatã­s what i wanted you to get the gistof here. this was a little easier to think of whatã¬in this sectionã® means because we were working to the end of the row each time onthis right base triangle. the middle one, though, you have to rememberthat the first ã± these 8 stitches are finished. weã­re done with those. weã­re working on a new section.

and then the last triangle will be workedjust like the middle one was. so now that youã­ve got the base triangles,next up weã­re going to work on tier 1. now that you have your base triangles finished,letã­s start right in with tier 1. and again, tier 1 is a left side triangle,two middle squares, and a right side triangle. and here is my sample with the base trianglesfinished. this looks ridiculous. and everyone, uh [laughs] everyone who i workwith on entrelac, they always want me to look at their base triangles to make sure theydonã­t have something unique going on, because it looks so weird.

no, this is right. it looks this weird. so we have our row counter, and weã­re readyto start with a wrong side row. this is ã± first weã­re going to do the leftside triangle. and your pattern spells this out as well. row 1 is knit 1 and turn. and youã­re familiar with turning work beforeyou reach the end of the row now. so thatã­s no problem. row 2 is kfb and turn. and to work a kfb, itã­s called a knit frontback and itã­s a one stitch increase.

you put your needle in, wrap it and pull itthrough like a normal knit stitch, but donã­t take this old stitch off the left needle. instead, swing the tip of your needle aroundto the back loop of that stitch, wrap it, and pull it through. and then pull the old stitch off. youã­vejust increased by one. if you need a slower review of the kfb, iã­llgive you a link right here. row 3 is knit 1, purl two together, and turnthe work. row 4 ã± we have a new technique again. knit 1, and the pattern says m1 which standsfor ã¬make 1ã®.

and this is a one stitch increase, and todo it weã­re going to use the bar between two stitches. so you find this bar, pick it up from frontto back, and then knit it through the back loop. and then knit the last one. and if you need a slower review of the make1 stitch, iã­ll give you a link right here. row 5 is knit 1, purl 1, purl two together. row 6, and from now on, all of the right side,even numbered rows are knit up to the last stitch, make 1, and knit 1.

row 7 is knit 1 ã± and if you are paying attention,youã­ll see that the first stitch, the edge stitch, the very edge stitch on the scarfis always knit. and it gives us this, um, cool looking kindof twill edge, because the first stitch is in garter stitch. anywhere, where was i? i was on row 7 becausemy counter tells me. knit 1, purl 2, purl two together. and row 8 is going to be the same as the otherones. we knit up to the last stitch, make 1. oh, i should show you a little make 1 trick.

this is how i personally work make 1s. theresult is the same. i pick it up from front to back with my rightneedle, mainly because iã­m just more coordinated with my right hand. i pick it up from front to back with my rightneedle, hand it to my left needle, and then to get your needle in there, to knit it throughthe back loop can be tricky. to make it easier on myself, i stick my needlein the front loop, use my thumb to hang on to the yarn, and then flip it to the back. let me show you that again. i pick it up with my right needle, hand itto my left needle, put my right needle in

front, put my thumb here to secure the yarn,and roll the needle over to the back. then wrap it and pull it through. and 9, row 9 is going to be, knit 1, purl3, purl two together. turn work. whoops. row 11 is knit 1, should be purl 4, purl twotogether. row 13, knit 1, purl 5. okay, weã­re almost done with this triangle.i want to for sure show you how to work the center squares in this section.

okay this is row 15. knit 1, purl 6, purltwo together, do not turn work. okay. to move on to the middle square iã­mgoing to set my counter back to zero. because now the first part of the center squareis to pick up and purl stitches here along this edge. my working yarn is here, and you see a rowof nice double long vs, and thatã­s what weã­re going to pick up. if youã­ve done picking up and knitting before,itã­s very similar. picking up and knitting you go from frontto back like this. but because weã­re picking up and purling,weã­re going to go, using just the right needle,

from back to front under two legs of a v. you can see this row of vs. from back to frontunder two legs of a v, wrap the needle and pull it through to the back just like a purlstitch. under both legs, wrap it, pull it through. you know, i think i didnã­t start early enough.this count isnã­t coming out right. it should be easy to see and pick up 8 stitches.i donã­t think i started close enough. there we go. thereã­s one, two, three, four,five, six, nope didnã­t make a difference. but iã­ll work in 8 stitches, no problem. okay.

then at the very, after we pick up 8 stitches,we want to secure this at the bottom. so the next bit of instructions tells us totake the stitch off the right needle, slide it over to the left needle, and then purltwo together. and that secures things at the bottom of thesquare. okay that was row 1. we turn the work, and the right side rowsof this are easy. just knit 8. the wrong side rows are always going to bethe same from here on out. you slip 1, purl 6, purl two together, and turn the work. youã­ll repeat those two rows, keeping trackwith your counter, until this square is finished,

youã­ll work a second square here, exactlythe same, and then we move over to the right side triangle. and hereã­s my next sample of work here. the left side triangle, two middle squares,and to do the right side triangle itã­s no great mystery, youã­ll understand how to doit now that youã­ve worked, done the picking up and purling already. the first thing we do is we pick up and purl8. okay, then you turn the work. and the right side, the even numbered rowsin this section tells us to purl across all

of the stitches in this section. so this section is 8 stitches right now. did i say pick up and purl? if i did, i meantpick up and knit. or just knit across. one, two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight. then row 3 is slip 1, purl 6. what did i just do there? this is kind of good, because i just madea mistake here. iã­m pulling out these stitches i just did to figure out what i could havedone. two, four, six, eight.

slip one ã± what is going on? i think i seethis. the nice thing about this ã± when you makea mistake, your mistake is limited to whatever little section youã­re working on. so, if youã­re watching what youã­re doingwhen you go along, thereã­s no need to rip out inches and inches of work. letã­s try this again, slip 1. okay, the thing that i want to make a noteof here, all of the right side rows are telling you to knit everything in that section. but every time you come to a new right siderow, thereã­s going to be one stitch fewer.

thereã­s seven in here now after that knittwo together. and then, um, the next wrong side row iã­mgoing to work another decrease, so there will only be six. so do pay attention to your counter, and keepin mind how many stitches there are in that section that youã­re working so that you donã­taccidentally start working over here in this finished square. so that was tier 1. next up, weã­re goingto talk about tier 2. now weã­re going to go over how to work tier2 in the pattern. letã­s jump right into it. here we finished the base triangles and tier1, which is a left triangle, two center squares,

and the right triangle. let me hold that better. and, uh, weã­re left with one stitch fromthe right triangle. turn the work. that one stitch, i slipped it over on to thisneedle, itã­s actually supposed to be over here. iã­m sorry. [laughs] okay, so here is the stitch that i have leftover. weã­re going to pick up and knit now, 8 stitchesalong this edge here.

again, hereã­s my working yarn, hereã­s myone stitch left over, weã­re going to pick up and knit. and youã­ve already been picking up and purling,so picking up and knitting is actually an easier thing. when we do this, we count the one stitch thatwe have left here as the first stitch. and that only applies to this first square. so, to pick up and knit, you go in from thefront to the back under both legs of the v, wrap your needle and pull it through. under both legs of the v, from front to back.

let me double check this. two, four, six, eight. i picked up an extraone. two, four, six, eight. i probably didnã­tcount this one as my first stitch. now just like we did at the last tier, weã­regoing to secure things here at the bottom. iã­m going to slide that stitch from the leftneedle to the right, and then do an ssk. which is short for slip, slip, knit. iã­ll show you how that goes here really quickly.you put your needle in as if to knit in the first stitch, slip it over. put it in as ifto knit in the second stitch, slip it over. and then take the tip of your left needleand put it through the front of those two

stitches, wrap your needle and pull it through. and thatã­s a one stitch decrease. and if you need a more intense review of thessk, iã­ll give you a link right here. so that was row 1. we turn the work, row 2 is just a purl 8. row 3 is slip 1, knit 6. and then another ssk. slip, slip, knit andturn the work. and those are the only two rows you need toknow to work all three of these squares. youã­re going to pick up and knit along thesesides, and then work row 1 and row 2, keeping

track of what row youã­re on, of course, withyour counter. and so that tier actually goes pretty quickly. next up weã­re going to talk about doing thefinal tier triangles. if youã­ve made it this far in the scarf andyouã­re ready to work the final tier triangles, these triangles are going to be super easyfor you. youã­ve already done pretty much all of the techniques involved up to thispoint. letã­s take a look at these, anyway. here is my unblocked piece, and this wouldactually be huge if it was blocked. because iã­ve added an extra eight stitchesto this one. thereã­s an extra square here

in the middle if you can see that. but itã­s unblocked, so it ends up being justabout as wide as the blocked one. itã­s the exact same yarn in both. funny howdifferent it looks. okay for the final tier triangles you areset up here like this. and just like before weã­re going to pickup and knit 8 stitches along the selvedge edge. iã­m using a smaller sample here, but if youã­vemade it this far in the video, you are experienced at picking up and knitting by now! okay, and then like before, iã­m going toslip that stitch back over to the left needle

and ssk. and these rows, the wrong side rows are easy.weã­re just going to purl all the stitches in that section. and the stitches in the section are goingto get smaller with every right side row, because now iã­m going to start by knittingtwo together ã± whoops, i split that. knitting two together, third timeã– knit 5. ssk. and turn work.

and now there are seven stitches in this section. and thatã­s what i wanted to show you. and thereã­s one more technique i want toshow you. the very end of the final tier triangle thereã­ssomething called psso. weã­re not there yet, but iã­m going to usethis as an example to show you. row 15 of the pattern, if you want to takea look at that, it says slip 1, ssk, psso. okay? so iã­m going to slip one, you always slipas if to purl, ssk, and youã­re familiar with how to do that, and then iã­m going to passthe slipped stitch over.

thatã­s what psso stands for. take the stitch that you slipped, and passit over the other one like binding it off, and let go of it. iã­m going to undo that, because that doesnot go here in this section. it doesnã­t go here in the work right wherei am. i just wanted to make sure you understoodwhat psso stood for. i still have to finish this final trianglebefore i get down to row 15 to work that. anyway, thatã­s how to work the entrelac scarf. again, if you want your free copy of the pattern,itã­s available on frecklesandpurls.com, or

verypink.com. [music]