Easy Knitting Ideas Youtube


[music] in this tutorial, we're going to learn tomake the sweater on the mannequin behind me. i've named this sweater three rectangles,two triangles. i named it that because i want to emphasizehow simple these shapes are to knit. if you've never knit a sweater before, butyou're comfortable with both knitting and purling, this could be a good first sweaterfor you. this is knit in wool bulky yarn on size 9needles so it's pretty quick to knit. i've also sized this sweater from xs to 3xl. and i've included a couple of customizations,um, in the video and in the pattern to help

you get a perfect fit out of this sweater. and my hope is that what you learn here inthis tutorial you can take on with you to knit other sweaters. if you'd like to get a copy of the patternto follow along, you can click the link in the video description below to go to my website. i'll also give you a direct link to ravelry,where you can get the pattern. and i'll give you a link on screen here, aswell. speaking of customization, you might noticethat there are no buttons, no zipper, no belt, nothing like that on this sweater.

i built that in with the sweater. this is the sweater that i wanted to wear,and i didn't want a fastener like that. but you'll see there's a pin, a brooch, onthe lapel. i designed this sweater with that design ofpin in mind. it's called - this kind of pin has a millionnames. celtic brooch, a pennanular, a cloak pin,a viking pin, there are lots of names for it because it's an ancient pin design. and i really like it because the pin itself,the design of the pin itself, is the closure. and my tastes tend to lean towards the simplerthings, and i really like this.

anyway, when i was designing this sweater,i went online to see if i could find someone who made these pins just the way i like them. and i found a woman named ally shaw, she hasan etsy store and a website. she is a metal forger, and she makes thesepins. i dropped her a note and i said, hey, howabout i talk about your shop in a knitting tutorial coming up? because i want to use this pin on my sweater. and she got back to me right away. and i adore that kind of customer service.

and she said, yeah, mention away! i'll havesome of these ready to sell. so i'll give you links to find ally in thevideo description below, i'll tell you that she lives in england. but it was still just nine days shipping forme here in texas. from england to the us. so chances are if you order your pin early,your pin will arrive in the mail before you even finish knitting the sweater. now she calls this an anglo saxon pennanularbrooch. just another variation on the name!

and the reason i have this here on the lapel- this is the way i plan to wear this sweater most of the time. but if i go out side in the cold wind, orit's just chilly outside, take the brooch, close up the sweater, one side flaps overto the other half, and you just pin it here, and then you're protected against the coldwind. so this is what i did. if you do want to add buttons or a belt, thoseare certainly easy customizations to make. now, um, now that i've talked up this pinso much, i want to show you how to work it. because it can be a bit of a mind puzzle ifyou've never used one before.

let's go ahead and take a look. here is a sample of the knitting, the mockrib stitch used in the pattern, and this is a littler, a smaller version of the very samepin that's on the mannequin right now. ally sent me a couple of different sizes,and i chose the bigger one, i thought it was in better proportion for the sweater. and so it looks like this, and these pinsare really perfect for knits because this is not sharp. it goes between stitches without splittingthem. you see?

so that's the first thing you do, is you findwhere you want to pin it, you put the pin in through, and then fold it over and lineup the gap in the ring with the pin. once you do that, you twist the ring, i'mnot doing a very good job. this is a brand new pin, too. might be a littlesticky. you know what i'm doing? i'm pushing one waywith one hand and the other way with the other hand. which is stopping it. there we go. so once you twist it, then it's secure, it'snot going anywhere.

and that's the decoration. the decorative part of this pin is the closure. i think that's everything you need in theintroduction here, again a link to get your pattern is in the video description below. and next up we're going to get started onthe knitting. to get started with the knitting, you're goingto of course need your yarn, and your needles, and your pattern. and for this i used a bulky weight wool yarn. and i really recommend using a wool or a woolblend, or another animal fiber with this.

there is a lot of knitting there. and if you use, for example, a cellulose fiber,some acrylic fibers, it's going to make the sweater heavier, and it isn't going to hangas nicely as this lighter weight wool will. wool is warm, but the weight of it isn't heavy. and that's how i got the results here. so you're going to have everything ready,and you're going to start by knitting a swatch, right? you're going to knit a swatch. [laughs] and you're going to wash and block that swatchaccording to the yarn directions.

because i made mine out of 100% wool, i didwhat i do every time i wash wool. i filled the sink with lukewarm water, i putmy swatch in there, i let it soak, i squeezed out the water and let it dry flat. and that's when i checked gauge. now some of you are going to get really excitedabout this, because for this sweater you get to swatch a pocket. yes, that's my new phrase. swatch a pocket. no wasted swatches here.

you're going to follow the directions to knitthe pocket, and then wash and block according to the yarn's washing instructions. and then measure your gauge. you want to make sure you wash it first, becausesome yarns go nuts when they get wet, and your sweater will end up being a very differentsize after it's wet. but if you wash it first, before you startknitting, you measure your gauge on the washed swatch, that will make all of the difference. so, you'll do that, you'll wash it, you'llmeasure your gauge, and i'll give you a link here for exactly how to measure gauge to makesure you're getting the correct number of

stitches per inch. before you start. because you may need to adjust your needlesize to get the perfect gauge. and then, um, you'll have a pocket! you'll have a pocket finished! no wasted knitting. not that swatching is ever wasted, but... so you have that. now, moving forward, i want to talk abouthow to work the mock rib stitch.

which this whole pattern is knit in. mock rib. and let me see here. yep, that's what we're going to do next. let's go ahead and take a look at my sample. this is, of course, in the works and not yetblocked. and i want to show you - you see how prominentthese knit stitches are in the columns. and of course, this is in a different colorthan i'm about to swap out. but here it is. this is a blocked swatch.

and the little beads of purl stitches betweenthe columns of the knit stitches become more prominent after washing. i thought that was interesting. here is apples to oranges, or oranges to oranges. this is the exact same yarn, not, it's onlybeen steam blocked, not wet blocked, and you see how the bumps between the knit columnsbecome more prominent. okay. that's all i wanted to show you. just a quick review of the mock rib stitch.

because it will take you about two rows tomemorize this. it's very simple. you're going to start, every edge stitch keptin stockinette. so you have a knit stitch, we're on a rightside row. yarn forward to work a purl stitch. yarn back to work a knit stitch. this is every right side row. that's it. i'm not going to do anything elsefancy. i'm going to actually speed through this,because i want to get to a wrong side row

to demonstrate really the only other thingthat you're going to need to know to do this. so that's a right side row. now to work a wrong side row, it is just straightup purling. but i'm not going to show you that. i'm going to show you how to bind off purlwise. which is what i, throughout the pattern, everypiece is bound off purlwise on the wrong side of the work. so i'm going to start by purling two stitches. and then i really just want to bind one offover the other.

but to make this easier, i always pull theyarn back between the two needles so it's out of the way. so i can bind one stitch off. then i pull the yarn forward again to purlanother. then i pull the yarn back, just to get itout of the way. to pull that over. yarn forward, to purl another. and this will leave you with the nicest edgeon the right side of the work for seaming. with that there is one more thing i'm goingto show you.

if you are going to use a wool yarn in yoursweater, you have a great advantage, in that you can spit splice new balls of yarn togetherwithout tying a bunch of knots in your yarn, or having a bunch of ends to weave in whenyou're finished with the whole sweater. so i'm going to create a situation here. let's pretend this is my work, and i justran out of yarn. i need to attach a new ball of yarn. and this is my new ball of yarn. this only works on animal fibers. you can try it on some blends, it's alwaysworth trying, because sometimes it does work.

surprisingly it does work on blends. but it always works with animal fibers. the first this you want to do is untwist theplies. and this is a three ply yarn. i'm going to separate it two and one. two plies and one ply. i'm going to cut an inch out of one ply. i'm going to go over to my new ball of yarn. untwist the plies, separate it half and half,or as close as you can get.

and i'll cut an inch out of the two plieson this one. then i hold those together, and this is wherethe spit comes in. don't let anyone tell you you can use water,because spit has something special. and the fuzz in your mouth, after you're done.[laughs]; is also special. then i'm going to twist these together. and i'm going to keep talking with fuzz inmy mouth. twist these together, and then pull that sothe cut parts line up. and then you're going to use heat and friction,to actually felt these pieces together. i'm actually going to use the leg of my jeans,because that's way better friction than the

palms of my hands. you can work at this to make sure it looksreally good, and when you're finished, you have yarn with no break in it. no ends to weave in, no knots in your work,this is why i love wool yarn. one of the many reasons i love wool yarn. okay, so you are going to make a back, a bigrectangle back. two rectangle fronts, and a couple of trianglesleeves. and next up we're going to talk about seamingthe sweater. putting it all together.

once you get the pieces of the sweater finished,you're going to want to steam block them out into shape before you start seaming them. and when i say that, this is just a way ofmaking sure they're really flat and square to make seaming easier. i can give you a link here to my steam blockingvideo, but really, all you want to do is pin them out to size, your size, the size i havelisted in the pattern. and then use the steam iron and blast steaminto the knitted fabric without pressing down with the iron. and when you do that, you can pat it out,and it will be smooth and flat enough to seam.

and then once the whole thing is seamed together,you can do a wet block, where you put the whole thing in the sink with wool wash. first let me show you exactly how this goestogether. let's take a look. i have a little mini sweater knit here. this is the back. and this is the right side of the work, hereis the wrong side. so you have a big rectangle for the back. and then here is a front.

the front piece is going to be wider thanhalf of the back. and that's because it will be seamed hereat the shoulder, and then part of it lies open like this for the lapels. the pin goes here. and then if it's cold, you can close it backup and put the pin here to hold it shut. so you have the back and two fronts. i have just one front here. and then you have this shape which is thesleeve. yours is going to be much longer. [laughs]

and the sleeve, once it's folded in half,and seamed here, makes the rest of the sweater. so that's how the whole thing is put together. so these pieces have not been wet blocked,but they have been steam blocked. so they are ready to go together. the first seam that i'm going to do is acrossthe shoulder. and this is going to be a stitch to stitch,a bind off row to a bind off row seaming. and that's what i want to demonstrate howto do. you're going to actually hold the pieces likethis to seam them together. and i give you guidelines in the pattern forhow much to seam in, leaving the back of the

neck open and this part open for the lapel. but this is a place where customization canreally work well for you. in the pattern i give you a suggested amountto seam in. try the sweater on. you'll do it on both sides,try the sweater on. if it's staying up and fitting well, you'regood. i found that on my own sweater, the one onthe mannequin, i had to seam mine in quite a bit more. and i'm not sure if it's because i have smallshoulders or a thin neck, or whatever it was, just by taking it a half inch on each side,the sweater fit so much better.

so that's something you can customize rightthere. so, let me first show you how to do this sideseam, or this shoulder seam. dramatic color change here - sorry about that! these are two mock rib samples, and theseare two bind off rows. and the way these are going together righthere is exactly the way the mattress stitch is going to work on the shoulders for you. i'm going to demonstrate this in some prettygood detail, but if you've never done the mattress stitch before, here is a link tomy video that's dedicated to this stitch. that will go over it very very slowly foryou.

i'm also going to use this contrasting colorof yarn, to make it easy to see. you want to thread your yarn on to a tapestryneedle. and i'm starting here at what would be theoutside edge of the shoulder. i'm going to put my needle, from back to front,through the very corner. whoops, i split a stitch there. into the very corner of this piece. going through once, and then going througha second time in the same hole just to secure it there. and then i'm going to go through the veryedge piece, the edge of the piece here.

okay, now the two pieces are pretty much attachedto each other. don't pull that tightly yet. you have these vs that make up the bind offrow. and underneath each one, you'll see that thereare two legs of a v. or, in this case, yeah, it's two legs of av. go underneath both of those legs, and pullthat through. don't tighten it up yet. jump over to the other side, and go underthe two legs of the first v you see there. just under the v that runs this way, thisone will run this way.

then i'm going to jump back over to this side. go into the same hole i came out of here. and grab two legs of the next v. jump back over to this side, go into the samehole i came out of, grab two legs of the next v. over here, two legs. going back into the same hole you came outof makes it really easy, and that's actually the reason i don't pull it tightly, untili've finished a little bit more of it. i'm going to go ahead and pull it now.

this is what i call the magic moment. it makes it easier to see, to put your needleback into the same hole you came out of, especially because you're going to be seaming with thesame color of yarn you used to knit the sweater. and you won't have this awesome contrast likei do. but i also wait to pull it tightly becauseof this. because that is awesome. look how beautiful. everything lines up, and the seam is invisible. i need to pull it a little tighter down here.

you see that? and so your shoulders are going to look reallynice. you're going to seam the shoulder up to thedistance i recommend in the pattern, try it on, and see if you want to adjust it at allbefore you fasten off this yarn that you're using for the seaming. i'm just checking now to see if there is anythingelse i want to cover... yes, okay. the last bit of this, after you've done theshoulder seams, this is another area where you can do a little customization on the sweaterfor yourself.

you'll have the shoulder seams stitched, thesides will still be open, no sleeves attached. you can actually take this opportunity tomeasure how long, exactly how long, you want the sleeves to be for you. in the pattern i give recommended sleeve lengths,using standards for sizing for the different sizes, xs through 3xl. but i can imagine a really tall woman, whohappens to wear and xs needing much longer sleeves than i list in the pattern for a standardxs. so this is a chance for you to get that justright. you're going to try on your sweater.

well, it's not a sweater yet, it's basicallya back and two fronts that are seamed at the shoulder. and because this is a drop shoulder design,the shoulder will go down like this, and part of the back and the sides will become theshoulder. your sweater will end here, once you pushit down over your shoulder like this. so you'll need some help with this. put the pieces on, the "sweater" on, and thensmooth it down over your shoulder like this. and then take a measurement from there, tothe end of your sleeve, how long you want your sleeve to be.

so, smooth the sweater down over your shoulder,start your tape measure there, hold your arm out and measure it out to how long you wantthe sleeve to be. i have really long arms. so i always think it's a luxury if i can getmy sweaters down to this first knuckle on my thumb. that's one of the beaties of making hand - thebeautiful things about making handknits for me is making the sleeves long enough for me. so i measured from here, down to here, andthat's how long i made the sleeves for myself. if you're making the sweater for someone else,sticking to the standards that i put in the

pattern should be pretty safe, getting itjust the way you want it is easy to do if you have someone with a tape measure who canhelp you measure how long you want that to be. speaking of the sleeves, next up we're goingto talk about seaming the sleeves and seaming the pockets on to the sweater. and that's pretty much the rest of the finishingwork you have to do! the last bit of finishing work you'll haveto do is to attach the sleeves and the pockets, and i'm going to demonstrate that now. let's take a look at how the sleeves cometogether with everything else.

here are the same tiny little sweater samplesthat i showed you before. we've already seamed the shoulders. here is the sleeve. you will fold it in half, and it goes on likethis. very simple. this was really simple seaming here, it'sa little bit different when it comes down to the sleeve. let me open this up. you're going to attach it this way, whichmeans you're going to be attaching the bind

off row to the side stitches. which makes things only slightly different. not that hard. i'm going to demonstrate that to you now. oh, let me just say. the reason that it is a little bit differentis because knit stitches are slightly wider than they are tall. so you want to pick up every stitch on thesleeve and skip every fourth on - i just got that backwards!

you want to pick up every stitch on the body,and skip every fourth on the sleeve. promise you, it does work. i'm going to show you how to do it right now. we're back to these brightly lit samples here! i'm going to thread my tapestry yarn here. and attach the yarn just the same way thati did before. this piece would be the sleeve. and this would be the body, seaming into theside. you see how these are just square samples,but they end up being the exact same experience

you'll have in the sweater itself. so the way i'm going to do this is i'm goingto pick up the first stitch here, this is all just like we did before. and then pick up a ladder over here. two stitches over here. pick up the next one here. and go into the same hole you came out of,and pick up two here. this is really no different than what youjust did last time, but it's going to get interesting here in just a moment.

pick up two over here. so i picked up three over here, and threeover here. i'm going to jump back over to the sleeveagain, but i'm not going to pick up the next v i see. i'm going to skip that one, and pick up thenext. and then i go into the same hole i came outof over here. whoops. picking up two. so this is how it goes. you pick up every stitch on the body, andskip every fourth stitch on the sleeve.

and that will make it all match up and lookright. since the knit stitch is not a perfect square. and even though i seamed in that crazy color,i'm going to have a really nice seam here. okay, the last thing i want to talk about,you're getting so close to wearing your sweater now! i want to talk about the pockets. this is not in any proportions of the pockets,but what you'll do is you'll line up the rows. determine kind of where you want it, i triedit on and i used some markers to pin exactly where i wanted the pocket to land.

you have the columns here that you want toline up. and you'll get it just where you want it. and then using, of course, the same colorof yarn that you used to knit the sweater, and a tapestry needle. you want to make sure you don't stray fromthis same - you don't have to knit into a column, but just pick a spot, and just alwaysalways go, make sure you keep it straight, and go back into the same stitch of the columngoing down. and there might be people who are better atsewing than i am who can suggest a different stitch, but this whip stitch seems to workpretty well.

it's quick to work. and you'll do that all the way down, and themake sure you're lined up when you come back up this way. and your pocket will be secure. with all that done, you'll want to followthe washing instructions to wash and block your sweater. one hint, something that i did is this. this was pretty bulky when it was finished,it was very heavy. so instead of just wrapping it up in towelsto remove the excess moisture, i have a top

loading washer. i was able to put it into the washer, turnit to spin, to spin out most of the water, and it didn't do any harm to the sweater atall. it just spun out most of the water. and then it was light enough so that i wasactually able to pick it up and put it on the blocking board, and let it block to measurements. anyway, that's it! i hope you enjoy this sweater, i hope youlove making it! good luck.

[whooshing sounds]

Cool Knitting Ideas


hey! i’m davina from sheepandstitch.com,and today we’re going to learn how to knit a beginners scarf step by step. this tutorialis for total beginners and complete newbies. we’ll go through all the steps together,and it’s going to be a lot of fun. so if you’ve always wanted to knit or you justneed a little refresher, then this course is for you. and if you’re already a seasonedknitter, then consider sharing this course with someone who has yet to experience thejoy of knitting. share the love! and bring them into the knitting fold. are you readyto knit? yeah? okay, let’s start knitting. title: choosing yarn and needles today i’m knitting with two skeins of tjocktmartta the merino, which is a super delicious

merino yarn. it's a one ply and a bulky weight,which means it'll knit up really quickly. i mean, look how thick that is, right? andthis is a beautiful color called pearl. and you can get these at sheepandstitch.com. i'malso knitting with a pair of 10 mm needles. now the needles and yarn that you use canbe anything that you have around. you don't have to use this particular yarn or needle. so the yarn that i'm knitting with is a bulkyweight yarn. this is nice and thick and i like this for beginners because it gives yousomething to hold onto.you can really grasp this yarn and it's easy to manipulate. i wouldrecommend that you use yarn that requires needles that are at least 5 mm in size. anythingsmaller than that is hard to manipulate for

a beginner. you want to stay away from yarnslike this. this is a sock weight yarn. and as you can see, it's really fine. it's goingto be harder to knit with. so stay away from yarns that are really thin like this. you'llwant a worsted weight or an aran weight, all the way up to a bulky weight like this ora super bulky weight. so the rule is bigger yarns are better for beginners. so what kind of needles should you use? thebest place to look is your yarn label. my yarn label here tells me that the needlesi should use are between 10 and 15mm. so when you're choosing a needle size, look to youryarn label first and use their recommended needle size as a guide.

so once you've got your yarn and needles,then you're ready for the first leg of your journey, which is casting on! woohoo! title: the cast on so now we're going to cast on. now castingon means we're going to get our yarn onto our needles. right now, our yarn and needlesare separate from each other and we don't want that. we need to get our yarn onto ourneedles so that we can knit into it, right? now obviously we're not going to wrap ouryarn like that. that won't do. we need a way to make stitches onto our needle. so that'swhat casting on does. we're going to take our yarn and make a slipknot.

we're going to go in 7 or 8 inches from thetail end of our yarn here, and then we're going to make a slipknot at this point. soi'm going to make a loop with my yarn like this. so again, no loop and now we have aloop. so we'll make a loop with our yarn and we'll take the tail end of our yarn and gobehind that loop. then we're going to pick that strand of yarn through our loop. so herewe go. pick that through and then pull. and now we have a slipknot. so let's do that again.i'll undo that slipknot and i'll go in about 7 or 8 inches from the tail end and make asimple loop. i'll take my tail end and go behind that loopthat i've just made and then pick that strand of yarn through and pull out. and now i havea slipknot.

so now i'm going to take my needle and putit through the slipknot that i've just made. so now my slipknot is on my needle. but theslipknot is really loose. it's flopping around. it's not staying stationary. so i need totighten it up. i'm going to take these two strands of yarn and pull them together andthat will tighten up my slipknot. so now you can see it's sitting nice and snug, snug asa bug on my needle. perfect. so now this slipknot has made up my firststitch. this is my first cast on stitch. pretty cool, right? but we need to cast on more stitchesonto our needle because we don't want a scarf that is this wide. we want a scarf that'sthis wide, right? we need to cast on more stitches. so what i’m going to do is takemy finger

and put it down on my first stitch here becausei don't want this to be rolling around. i want it to stay in place. lets put our fingerdown and we can start casting on. so first i'm going to take my left hand and make agun shape. then i'm going to go underneath that strand of yarn. so this is my strandof yarn that's attached to my ball of yarn. it's not my tiny tail here. so i'm going totake my left hand, make a gun, go underneath that strand of yarn that's attached to myball of yarn and then i'm going to turn it over to the left. so now you can see thati've made a loop on my finger. so i'm going to use my needle and pick up that loop offof my finger. and i’ll drop it off onto my needle and then pull down. cool. so nowi’ve just made one stitch. i've cast on

my second stitch. so let's continue doingthis. we’ll cast on a couple more stitches. i'll take my left hand and make a gun andgo underneath that strand of yarn and then turn my hand to the left. and you can seethat i've made a loop with that finger. i'll use my needle to pick up that loop. just likethat. and then pull down. there we go. so here is our third stitch. one, two, three.three stitches that we've cast on. pretty cool, right? so we'll continue doing this– making a gun with our left hand, going underneath that strand of yarn and turningit to the left. and then picking up that loop with our needle. just like that. then i'mgoing to take my hand off and pull down. now a thing to remember is that when you'redoing this, sometimes it will get tricky picking

up that loop of yarn. sometimes the loop travelsup on your finger. ah! and it's off, right? that was a close call. but if you find thatyou're having trouble picking up that yarn loop, you can hold your yarn in place. justgrab it and then let the needle pick up that loop off your finger, nice and steady. thenpull down. so as you get comfortable doing this, youcan go really, really fast. and when i do it i'm just going like this. really fast.now the official name for this cast on method is the backward loop cast on. i find thatthis method is really good for beginners. it's much less involved than some other castons. so continue casting on stitches, and cast on about 15 stitches and then we'll takestock of our stitches. so happy casting on.

this is the first leg of your journey. onceyou've completed this, you've only got two more to go. so cast on your stitches and meetme back here. title: the knit stitch so now you've cast on 15 stitches onto yourneedle. now let's take stock. so i'm going to spread out my stitches like this and takea look at the width of my stitches. so basically if we start knitting now, our scarf will bethis width. if you're happy with this width, then great. we can start knitting next. butif you feel that your scarf is too wide, then you can take off some of your stitches. solet's say i wanted my scarf to be this wide, then i would pop off some my stitches justlike this. pop them off the needle, there

we go. gone, gone, gone. and now my scarfis a bit thinner. now let's say you want your scarf to be wider,then you would cast on more stitches. so the width of your stitches is pretty close tothe width of your scarf. let's stay i want a really wide scarf. let's say i want thesame width as the scarf at the beginning of the video. that was 22 stitches. so, 2, 4,6, 8, 10, 12, 14, 16, 18, 20, 21 and 22. so let's say i want a really wide thick scarf,then i would cast on 22 stitches. and you can see here that is a really big wide scarf.but i kind of love that. i love the coziness of a big scarf. so now, let's move on to the next leg of ourjourney, which is the knit stitch. very exciting!

so when we work the knit stitch, we're goingto use our right needle. and we're going to go into the stitch from the bottom to thetop. so i'm going to push my needle in like that. then i'll take my yarn and go from theback to the front of my needle. then i'm going to pull that strand of yarn that i just loopedaround my needle through this stitch on my left needle, and i'll push my needle throughand push it off the needle. just drop it off. don't worry if you didn't catch that the firsttime. we'll go over this a couple more times and you can always rewind this video. so let's do this again. i'm going to takemy right needle and go into the stitch on my left needle and just push my needle throughit. just like that. and you can make really

big exaggerated movements. that's totallyfine because you're just learning the steps right now. then i'll take my yarn and go aroundmy right needle from the back to the front and then i'm going to pull the loop that i'vejust made through the stitch on my left. here we go. you can see that loop right there.i want to catch that on my needle, so i'll push my needle through and then drop thatstitch off the needle. cool. so i've just knit two stitches. so as we knit our stitches, we're kind oftransporting them from the left needle to our right needle. they're migrating over fromhere to here as we knit them. so let's keep going. now when you hold your yarn you canloop it around your finger the way i'm doing.

but if this process is making you nervous,you can just grab your yarn. you can just grip it like this. totally fine. we're justworried about getting the steps down and then we can work on the finesse and the techniqueof holding your needles. but right now we're just worried about steps. so if you want todo a caveman grip. so we'll go from the bottom to the top intoour stitch. so just push your needle through. then we'll take our yarn and go from the backto the front like this. then we'll pull that strand of yarn through our stitch and thendrop it off the needle. so you can repeat this to yourself as you knit. go from thebottom to the top. wow, that was a big one. we'll push and then we'll take our yarn andgo from the back to the front. then we'll

pull that loop that we made through our leftstitch. there it is! so we'll catch that guy, push our needle through and then drop it offour left needle. so that's all there is to the knit stitch. bottom to the top. yarn fromthe back to the front and then we'll pull that loop through. here it is. there's ourguy. there it is. and we'll catch that with our needle and drop it off the left needle.so, don't worry if you feel clumsy when you're first starting out. you can use all kindsof gripping methods. most of the people i teach will grip their yarn like this, andthat's fine. whatever feels natural to you, use that method. you really just want to getthe steps down first. so, going from the bottom to the top, using your yarn to go from theback to the front, and then picking out that

loop and dropping it off the needle. so theseare all the steps involved with knitting. and i just want you to get familiar with thesteps and then you can worry about how to hold your needles and how to hold your yarnin a way that's more efficient. all that kind of stuff, we can work on that later. thinkof it like dancing. when you're learning how to dance you want to get the choreographydown. you want to get the steps down and then you can work on technique and having morestyle and panache. but when you're first starting out, you just need to know the steps. so it'sthe same with knitting. so work on the knit stitch and you'll want to knit all the stitcheson your left needle. then we can move on to the next step.

title: next row and pep talk so now i'm nearing the end of my first row.i've just go two stitches left on my left needle. so let's knit into these two stitches.i'm going to go from the back to the front, and then pick that stitch through and thenoff the needle. and here's my last stitch. oh my gosh. so, here's my last stitch andthere we go. woohoo! so now we've just knit our first row. pretty awesome, right? lookat this beautiful first row. so great. so once you've finished your first row, youcan turn your needle around. so i'm going to take my needle and bring it to my lefthand, and take my “naked” needle, the needle that doesn't have stitches on it, intomy right hand. so that's what you do when

you finish a row of knitting. you always transferit back to your left hand. your left hand is for all your stitches. your right handis for your working needle or your “naked” needle.so now we're going to do the exact same thing that we just did. we're going to continueknitting into our stitches. so, bottom to the top. the yarn goes from the back to thefront, and then we'll pick up that loop, push it through our needle, and then drop it off.so that's all there is. we would keep on knitting. learning how to knit is a lot like learninga new language for your hands. if this is your first time knitting, yourhands have never held yarn and needles and tried to manipulate them at the same time.it's a lot to get used to. so in the same

way that when you're learning a new language,you wouldn't expect to be fluent in a day, you can't expect to be an expert knitter ina day, even if you practice a lot. your hands need to get used to the rhythm of knitting,and that takes some time and practice. so don't be discouraged if your first couplerows are a little bit funny and maybe there's some weird holes in them. just take the timeto practice. give it some time and don't be too worried if you make mistakes. practiceand have fun with it. your hands are really smart. they'll find their way around youryarn and needles as you practice. title: how to hold your needles (once you'recomfortable with the knit stitch) once your hands are comfortable holding yourneedles and speaking the language of knitting,

then you can hold your needles in a way that'sless clumsy. how i hold my yarn is i’ll take my right hand and this finger, the onethats beside my pinky finger, and i'll grab my yarn and wrap it around my finger likethis. and you can wrap it around once or twice. it doesn't really matter. just find what worksfor you. i usually go once like this. so i’ll take my finger and go around my yarn oncelike this. then i'll use this finger beside my thumb and go underneath that strand of yarn.so my hand configuration looks like this. then when i knit my stitches, i just movemy hand up. i'm going to move my hand up and then wrap it around my yarn and go throughthe stitch like that. that way i'm not grabbing my yarn and moving my whole hand in that motion.instead i’m just moving my hand. so i'm

really just moving my hand upwards and catchingthe yarn onto the needle and pulling it through in one really fluid movement. so i'll show you how i wrap my yarn again.here's my finger. just wrap it around and i’ll take this finger and go underneaththat yarn. so that gives the yarn a bit of tension and when i knit i just move my handup and drop it off. and move my hand up and catch the needle with it and just move itand pick it off like that. so when you're first starting out, do not feel bad aboutholding your yarn like this: going into your needle, going all the way around and pullingit through. it’s okay. okay? it's totally okay. you have to learn the steps first andthen you can work on how you want to hold

your needles and all that fancy stuff. so continue knitting until your scarf is thelength that you like, and by the end of this you'll be an expert in the knit stitch. title: slipped selvedge now if you like the look of this clean edgehere, well it’s really easy to achieve that. all you need to do is slip the first stitchof every row. basically, when you get to the first stitch of your row, instead of knittingit as you normally would do like this, you would put your needle into it as if you weregoing to knit, and then drop it off the needle. continue knitting the rest of the stitches.that's all there is to getting a nice clean

edge to your knitting. so here we go. i'mnearing the end of my row here, and here's my last stitch. now i'm going to turn my workaround. on the first stitch of this row, i'm going to slip it. i’ll go into this stitchas if i were going to knit it, and then slip it right off. and continue knitting. and that'sall there is to getting a nice clean edge. just slip the first stitch of every row. title: the cast off hey! so look at my scarf! it's super long.look at this sea of knit stitch. i can't wait to wear this out. so now i'm ready to castoff my stitches. what casting off means is getting your knitting off of your needlesso you can wear this in public. you don't

want to walking around with a pair of needlesattached to your scarf. that's kind of weird. good conversation starter, but still kindof weird. so we want to get our scarf off of our needles, and that's what a cast offwill do. so we're going to knit two stitches. so we'llgo one, knit one, and then knit two. so now we're going to take our left needle and gointo the first stitch that we just knit. then bring it over our second stitch. so here wego. i'm just going to drop it and you can see my second stitch is right here. i’mgoing to drop it over the second stitch. so i've just cast off one stitch now. i onlyhave one stitch left on my needle . the other stitch has been cast off right here. and youcan see this as we move on. so now i've got

one stitch on my right needle and i'm goingto knit another stitch. so in order to cast off you always need to have two stitches onyour right needle. so i'm going to take my left needle and go underneath that first stitchand then bring it over my second stitch. so i'm going to go over. there it is. so nowi've brought it over and now i once again have one stitch on my right needle and mysecond stitch has been cast off right here. so let's do this again.w e would basicallywork across our whole row like this. once again i have two stitches on my right needleand i'm going to bring my left needle into that first stitch. if you're worried aboutboth of your stitches falling off your needle when you bring it over, you can always tightenthat second stitch by pulling on your yarn.

and now your stitch here is really tight againstyour needle, and when you pull your second stitch over it, it won't fall off becauseyou're pulling really tight on this yarn. so we would continue doing this. knit onestitch so that you've got two stitches on your right needle. then go into that firststitch that you just knit and bring it over the second stitch. and that's all there isto casting off. two stitches on your right needle, bring your needle into that firststitch and then over your second stitch just like this. and if you're worried you can alwaysuse your hand to grab a hold of yours stitch so it doesn't fall off. you can use any methodthat you want that makes you feel comfortable. now you can see that as we've casted off,this is the edge of our knitting and it's

being cast off of our needle nice and safely.it looks really beautiful on this nice edge here. and that's what happening as you castoff. you're binding off your stitches so that they're secure and they won't unravel. socast off all the stitches on this row and meet me back here when you have one stitchleft. we'll knit up this last stitch. so now i haveone stitch left on my row and you can see that the rest of my row has been cast off,and it looks so great! i can't wait to wear this scarf. so now we have one stitch lefton our needle, and we're going to get out our scissors. so i've got a pair right here.i'm going to cut off my tail end, but i'm going to leave five or six inches, maybe seveninches, of my tail end. then i'm going to

cut if off. so now i'm going to bring my tailend and bring it to the front of my needle. then i'm going to take my stitch and bringit over that tail end of my yarn and then just pull it through. woohoo! i'll pull tightlyon that. and now i've just cast off my scarf. can yo believe it? my scarf is off the needles,and now i can wear it out into the world. except for one last thing, which is this littleyarn tail right here and the yarn tail at the beginning of our work. we need to weavein this end so that its nice and neat and hidden into our scarf. so we're going to dothat next. title: weaving in ends so here's my tail end. i want to weave thisinto my scarf so that it's secure and also

invisible. so i'm going to use a tapestryneedle for this. you can get this at most craft stores. it's pretty inexpensive andvery handy. so if you plan on doing any more knitting you'll want to invest in a tapestryneedle. i'm going to take the tail end of my yarnand push it into the eye of this needle. and now we're going to weave this tail end intoour work. so the great thing about this fabric is that it has all these little bumps in it,which is great for camouflaging things like your tail end. so i'm going to take my needleand go into a little bump that's close to my tail end. so i'm going to go into one that'sclose by, and i'll pull it down to make it even. i'll move into this next little bumpto the left of it, and i'm going to go down

one of these bumps. so i'm going up and down.i'm not pulling really tightly. im just keeping the same tension as the knitting. so i'm goingto go up into one of these bumps, and then i'm going to go down into one of these bumps.so i'm going to go in five or six times. that's pretty good. maybe i’ll go in one more timehere. that looks pretty good to me. so after i do this, i like to stretch it out a littlebit so that the tail end isn't pulling at the fabric. that looks good. so lets lookon the other side. it looks practically invisible on this side as well. the whole point of thisis to hide the tail end and to secure it in place. so now i'm going to take out my scissorsand cut off that tail end. wow. so now you can wear your scarf out into the world, keepwarm and enjoy! and that is how you knit a

beginner scarf. thank you so much for watching! if this videohelped you out then consider subscribing to this channel for more knitting tips and tutorials.and hey! visit sheepandstitch.com to drool over yummy yarn, knitting kits and our everypopular pattern tutorials. okay, that’s it for me. i’m davina of sheepandstitch.com.have a great day and happy knitting!

Circular Knitting Pattern Question


welcome to the photoshop training channel.i have another awesome tutorial for you, guys, today. it's a baseball jersey inspired effect.and this effect is requested by one of our followers. in this tutorial, we're going to be creatinga baseball poster from scratch, and i’ll be showing you how you can create the texturefound in the background and within the text. i will, also, show you how to create the stitchingeffect by using a custom brush. so, let's get started. let's start out by creating anew document. so i'm going to press ctrl n on my keyboard, that's command n on the mac.then i'm going to set my width to 1280, my height to 720, change my color mode to rgb,and my background contents, i want to set

it to transparent, then press ok. now, before we go any further, we got to createsome guides that are going to help us place us the number and the name of our jersey.so the first guide we're going to create is a guide to divide everything in the center,and right now, this is set to percentage. so 50 will always be the center, both horizontallyand vertically. so, i'm going to create my first guide to split the document down atthe middle, and you'll notice that that snaps right at 50%. i'm going to change this intopixels. and the next guide, i'm going to create, it's going to be 50 pixels tall, which isgoing to be the margin on top, and i can take that same marquee and snap it down at thebottom, and create another guide to create

the 50 pixels margin at the bottom. and, bythe way, if you don't see the rulers, you can press ctrl r or command r on the mac,to show and hide the rulers. now, let's create the space where we're going to have the number.so, from the guide down here at the bottom, i'm going to create a selection. this is 415pixels high, and by the way, you might not have photoshop cs6, so you won't be able touse this selection to show you the number. in photoshop cs6, you have that visual aidthat tells you how wide and high the selection is. but anyway, so this is 415 pixels high,and i'm going to bring that down. so we're going to have the number in this space andthe name in this space, here. and that is just going to help us place it better. so,now that we created our guides, let's move

on into creating the background. so, we'regoing into the adjustment layer icon and create a solid color. i already have a blue predeterminedfor this and i want to give you a number for that, that's 0a356f. press ok when you'redone, and you can rename this layer "background." but in reality, this is the texture to ourjersey. but that's okay, "background" is a good name, and i'm going to go ahead and deletethe layer mask since we don't really need it and it makes things a little cleaner. it'snot really necessary. i just like doing it. i'm going to go ahead and double click onthe layer to open up the layer style window, and we're going to add a pattern overlay.and the pattern that i'm going to use is this one here, titled "woven wide." and, by theway, if you don't see these patterns, just

go to the fly out menu and select patterns,and you should get the patterns you see here. and the blending mode for this pattern, i'mgoing to set to soft light, and the opacity is going to be 15%, and i'm going to changethe scale of this all the way down to 5%, so you can barely see it. and, actually, fromthis view you can't really see it. so i'm going to press ok, and i'm going to zoom inso you can see the pattern we've created. so there you go. it looks a lot like the patternyou'll see on a modern jersey. so i'm going to go ahead and zoom out, and it's time tobring in our text. so i'm going to press t on the keyboard for the type tool, and i'mgoing to type in the number 48. i'm going to press ctrl enter to accept the changes,press ctrl t to transform, and fit this number

right in the area that we created for it;right in-between those guides. and, by the way, i'm using a font called jersey m54. youcan download it from dafont.com, and you can just search for this font, and then clickon download. so, by the way, i'm going to have this link on my website photoshoptrainingchannel.com.if you're not there already, go there, find this tutorial, and you can find a direct linkto this font so you can download it. anyway, so this is the font that i'm using.now that i have my text right where i want it, i'm, actually, inside the text layer,so to get out of it, i'm going to press ctrl enter, that's command return on the mac, andwe're going to add some layer styles to this layer. so i'm going to double click on thelayer, and i'm going to move this to the side

so that we can see the number just a littlebit better. and we're going to add a color overlay. and the color we want for this isbb0101, which is this dark red, here, and press ok. then, we're going to add a stroke,and this is going to be a white stroke. press ok. and we're going to make this into a 8-pixelstroke, but we're going to change the position to center. and that's going to give 4 pixelsinside of the layer, and 4 pixels outside of the layer. then, we're going to changethe fill type into gradient, so we have a gradient, but we're going to change the styleto shape burst. so the gradient follows the shape. so, as you can see, the dark is alwaysin the outside, and the light is always in the inside.

so, we're going to adjust how the gradientlooks. we're going to add another black swatch to this, so you can create swatches by doubleclicking on it and, double clicking on it, again, to select the color. i'm just goingto click and drag this one out to delete it. and the white is at 50%, which, it's rightin the center of the gradient. so it creates this beveling effect around the stroke. now,i don't want to leave these at blacks since they're a little bit too strong, so what i'mgoing to do is i'm going to double click on the swatches and change the brightness to75%, and i'll do the same thing for the other one, then i'll press ok. so, now, it's a muchmore subtle effect, which is what we're going for, and then, press ok.

now we're going to add an inner glow. andthis glow is going to, actually, be a shadow. so we're going to change the color to black,and we're going to change the blending mode to normal. we're, then, going to increasethe size of this to 10 pixels, and you can kind of see the glow coming out of there,and we're going to change the choke to 50%, and you can see how that's looking there.now, this is a little too strong. so what we're going to do is we're going to bringthe opacity to 15%, like so, and we're going to do the same thing, but with an outer glowthis time. so, we're going to click on outer glow, and we're going to go to normal. we'regoing to select a black color. we're going to bring that opacity to 15%, 10 pixels, andfor the spread we're going to go to 20. and

now that i'm looking at it, the opacity mightbe a little too light, so let's pump that up a little bit. let's leave it at 20. howabout that? i think that looks a little bit better. and, then, we're going to give these numbersa pattern as well. so we're going to click on pattern overlay, but once we click on patternoverlay, we can't see the pattern because the color overlay is right above that. solet's hide it for a moment and we're going to select this pattern here. it's titled herringboneno. 2, click on that, and we're going to leave the opacity to 100%, but this scale is goingto go to 60%, like so. and we're going to come back to our color overlay, and we'regoing to change the opacity of our color overlay

to 95%, so that way, the texture we just added,the pattern, is barely visible, and you can’t see it here, but i'm going to zoom in in amoment so you can see it. so i'm going to press ok on that, and i'm going to zoom in,and now you can see what we did. there's a very subtle shadow around the numbers. youcan see around here, on the side. the subtle texture and, obviously, what we did beforethe pattern over our jersey. so i'm going to zoom out. and, by the way, i zoom out byholding alt and the mouse wheel, and that's option mouse wheel on the mac. actually, i'mgoing to zoom out just a little bit more so we can see everything. okay. now that we have our numbers created,it's time to create the stitching that's going

to go around these numbers. so, if you'veseen baseball jerseys, sometimes they have a stitch that goes around the numbers. solet's create that and the easiest way to create this is actually in illustrator. so we'regoing to go into illustrator to quickly create this. if you don't have illustrator, you cantry creating it on your own in photoshop, or you can just go to my website photoshoptrainingchannel.com.find this tutorial and i'll have that file for you there to download. so, let's go intoillustrator first. okay, so here we are in illustrator, and i'm going to go into file,new, to create a new document. and we're going to create a document that's 100 pixels wideby 100 pixels tall. then, i'm going to press ok. i'm going to select the pen tool and i'mgoing to click on the corner here. i'm going

to find the center of this document, and inillustrator, you have these guides that help you out. do you see that green line there,going from top to bottom? it's telling me that this is the center of this image, soi'm going to click on that. and then, i'm going to click on the othercorner, here, like so, to create this "v." then, i'm going to click on my move tool,select my path, and just remove the color—the white color—from the fill, since i don'twant any fill, so, now, we have our red line through it. then i'm going to change the strokeof my path to 10 points, like so, so you get something much wider, and i'm going to clickon my path, again, and i'm going to click on the handle here, and scale that in. i'mgoing to hold alt to scale this from the center,

like so. and, i'm going to bring the bottompart up, so this point, here, is way at the bottom, right on the tip of the canvass there,like so. okay. so this is going to be our stitching, and i'm going to move that downby using the arrow keys on the keyboard, just like you do in photoshop. then i'm going toselect it, and i'm going to go into edit, copy. i'm going to come back into photoshop.i'm going to open a new document, press ok, and then, i'm going to paste it into my newdocument. now, this window is asking me what i wantto paste. i want to paste a smart object, a pixel, a path, or a shape layer? pixel isfine, so just press ok and press enter. then, you can zoom in, so you can see your shapea little bit better, and everything's looking

pretty good. the only thing i'm going to dois we're just going to crop it, right here. i don't want this space, here, at the bottom,so i'm just going to go image, crop, and that's going to crop that out. and what we're goingto do is we're going to create a new brush so we can create the stitching. so, then,now that we have this, we can go into edit, define brush preset, and we're just call thispreset "stitching" and i'm going to press ok. then, i'm going to open up a new window,just so we can see what we're working with, and the width and height, really, doesn'tmatter, but i want something that's fairly big so we could see what's going on. i'm goingto change the background color to white, press ok, and i'm going to select the brush tool,and i'm going to find the preset we just created.

it should be way at the bottom, here, in thecorner, and if you hover over it, you'll see the name and it's called "stitching," whichis exactly what we wanted. and, if we start painting, you kind of seewhat we got, but it's not exactly what we're looking for. so, we're going into the brushpanel, and we're going to change the brush tip shape, and we're going to change the spacingfirst. so the spacing, we're going to set to something like 82. we'll see how that looks.and that looks pretty good. so if i were to come back to my canvass and draw, you'll seethat the stitching is looking pretty good. now, the problem with that is if i go up anddown, the stitching doesn't follow, so it's not looking too good. i'm going to undo thosechanges. and i'm going to go to shape dynamics

and turn that on. and i'm not going to changeany of the default, but i do have to make sure that the control for the angle jitteris set to direction, so now, every time i paint with this brush, the stitching follows,and this is more of what we want. so let's test this out and see how this isgoing to work on a shape. so i'm going to create a shape, and this is, again, just totest that out. and i'm just going to select anyone of these shapes. it really doesn'tmatter, so we can select the heart, for example, and we have our heart. by the way, i'm goingto open up the paths panel. we have our paths panel here now. now we have the work paththat we just created, and we're going to stroke this with our brush. and, as you can see,this is the result, but our brush is a little

too big, so why don't we press ctrl alt zto undo those changes, and we're going to make the brush a little bit smaller. so, let'smake that about 30 and you can kind of paint on there and see if that works. that mightbe a little too big, so let's set it to 20, and 20 seems it will do a good job. so, i'mjust going to undo all those changes, go back into my path. select stroke path. select brushonce again, and that looks much, much better, and this is exactly what we want for the stitchingin our jersey. so, i'm going to hide this panel for now,and i'm going to close this document. i don't need it. i don't need to save it, so i'm justgoing to close it and i'm going to come back into our jersey. so, now, we got to strokethe numbers using that brush. i'm going to

go back into the layers panel, and what i'mgoing to do is i'm going to create a new layer, and i'm going to call this layer "stitching."then, i'm going to come back into our text layer, hold ctrl, that's command on the mac,and click to make a selection out of that number, go back into our paths panel, andyou can do one of two things. you can click on this icon, here, which is the make workpath from selection icon, or you can come into the fly out menu, here, and click onmake work path. and the tolerance for this, i'm going to leave it at this lowest possiblesetting, which is 0.5, and then press ok. and this created a path that follows our selection;in this case, the numbers. so, i'm going to go back into the layers panel,make sure that the stitching layer is selected.

go back into the paths panel, and click onstroke path with brush, press ok. and it creates that path you see there. now, i'm going tozoom in and this is what it created. now, we're going to go back into the layers panel,and in our stitching layer, i'm going to double click on that to create a new layer style.i'm going to set the color overlay to white, and, actually, an off white, just right belowwhite, so something like 96% brightness or something like that. then, press ok, and i'mgoing to add a drop shadow, and we're going to make this into a faint shadow, so i'm goingto bring in this size to 1 pixel, and bring the distance in to something very, very smallthat you can barely see, maybe, like 2 pixels, and bring the opacity down to something like50%, maybe, even less. let's try 40%. that

seems to be okay for now. we can come backand make changes if need be a little later. and, you know what? i'm looking at it andi still think we need less, so let's just make it 35, and i think that's good, and pressok. and i'm going to zoom out so we can see the changes we have so far. and now that i'mlooking at this, it's not looking the way that i wanted. the stroke is a little toostrong. so what i'm going to do is i'm going to click on the marquee tool. and, by theway, before i do that, i'm going to deselect my work path so nothing is selected. go backinto my layers panel, and select the stitching we created and i'm going to hit backspaceon my keyboard to delete the pixels. i didn't delete the layers because i still want tokeep the same drop shadow and color overlay

that we applied, but i don't want those pixels.i thought the stitching was a little too big. so i'm going to click on my brush tool onceagain, and this time, i'm probably going to do 15, and that will be okay. let me do atest. so at 15 pixels, i think that's much better. so, i'm going to undo those changes,make sure my stitching layer is selected. go into paths. click on my work path and clickstroke path with the brush. and, now, we get a much better stitching look to our numbers.i'm going to press ctrl h to hide all the extras, and i'm going to go back into my layerspanel. and now that i have everything here, i'm going to select the stitching and thelayer 1, which is, actually, an extra text layer i created somehow, so i'm just goingto delete that.

so i'm going to grab the stitching, grab thenumber, press ctrl g to make a group, and just title that group "number." and now thati have the number selected, i'm going to press ctrl j to duplicate it, and, by the way, ctrlj to duplicate groups only works in cs6, so, if you have cs5 or below, you're going tohave to duplicate it by clicking and dragging it into the new layer icon. then, i'm goingto rename this layer to "name." and i'm going to move that up, somewhere around there fornow. and, by the way, pressing ctrl ; (semicolon), and that's command ; on the mac, brings upthe guides. so that's one way of bringing it back. then i'm going to press ctrl t, andi'm going to transform it so the number now fits in the space that i created for the name,like so. i'm going to open up this group,

and we're going to have to redo the stitching,so i'm just going to delete the pixels off of there, by doing what we did before—selectingthose pixels and hitting backspace on the keyboard—and i'm going to have to adjustthe stroke a little bit. so, right now, it's set to 6 pixels. let's change that to 6. andwe're going to bring in the inner glow just a little bit. it's a little too strong andpress ok. okay, so now, before we create the stitching,we got to change the number to a name. so i'm going to double click on the text layerthumbnail, and i'm going to change the number to a name. in this case, i'm going to usejrfromptc, and i'm going to center this. so, i'm going to select from and change this tothe number 22, and, actually, it might still

be a little too big. so, maybe, 20; let'sdo 18; yeah, 18. so jrfromptc, and, by the way, if you're wondering, this is actuallya shameless plug, here. this is my twitter name. so if you like to follow me, well, now,you know what my twitter name is. feel free to send me a tweet with any comment, message,or anything else that you like. i'm going to press ctrl enter, that's command enteron the mac, to accept the changes. i'm going to press v on the keyboard to bring the movetool, and i'm going to center this text layer. and now that i have the name, i'm going tocreate an arc because that's the names on jerseys are. they're sort of in an arc, butnot in a straight line. so, to do that, i'm going to double click on the text layer thumbnail,and i'm going to add a text warp. and in the

warp text window, i'm going to select arc,and that arc is way too big, so i'm just going to bring that all the way down and, i think,i'm going to have an arc of about 13 or 12; 12 seems okay, so i'll leave that there. so now that i've created that, i'm going topress ctrl enter, command enter once again. press ctrl t, command t, to transform. i'mgoing to hold shift and alt, click on one of the corner handles, and scale that in soit fits within the area we created for the name, like so. okay. now that we have thename, it's time to add the stitching, so we'll ctrl click, command click on the text layerthumbnail to create the selection around the text. we'll go into paths, make work path0.5 pixels, press ok. with the work path selected,

make sure the stitching layer is selected,and make sure that you select the entire path, and go into stroke path. and you're goingto use the brush tool, of course. and it's going to create the stitching for that layer.so i'm going to press ctrl h to hide all the extras, command h on the mac. and, you knowwhat? the stitching, once again, looks a little too big. so i'm going to press ctrl z to undothat. we go into the brush, and we're going to make this into 12 pixels. we'll see howthat works out. i'm going to make sure the path is selected, and then go into the layerspanel, make sure "stitching" is selected; back into the path panel, and click on strokepath with our brush. and press ctrl h to hide the guides. press it once more to hide everything.and now our stitching is looking much better.

so, let me zoom out a little bit so we cansee what we got so far. and really quick, i'm going to go back into the layers panel,and now, we're going to create a vignette just to center this a little bit better. so,i'm going to make sure that the path is not selected. i'm going to click on layers. i'mgoing to add a new gradient adjustment layer. i'm going to set this to radial, and clickon reverse. and, by the way, make sure that you're selecting the transparent to blackfill, like so. then, press ok, and you can change the scale of this as need be. so inmy case, it's 278% or something like that. so the outside areas are dark, creating thatvignette, so then, press ok. and, i'm going to duplicate this, and the bottom one, i'mgoing to double click on the gradient icon.

i'm going to uncheck reverse; i'm going toclick on that. i'm going to click on this swatch, here, at the bottom. i'm going toset that to white, and i'll do the same thing for the other one, so they're both set towhite. and i'm going to change the scale. i'm going to bring that in. and, obviously,this is going to be my highlight, and i'll press ok. and the highlight, it's going tobe set to 30% opacity, and i'm going to change the blending mode to overlay, to create thathighlight you see there. by the way, this is a little too strong, so i'm going to bringthat down, so, maybe, 85% or so. so, now, we have our vignette. we have our highlight.and one cool thing about creating this highlight, if i double click on the gradient again, ican click and drag that around if you want

to move your highlight to another area. buti don't want to do that. i'm just going to press cancel. okay, guys, that's our tutorial right there.and this is the final result. i'll zoom in a little bit just so you can see the detaila little bit better, and there it is. okay, so we were done with our tutorial, but theni got an idea and tried it out. and it actually worked out pretty good. so, now, i want toshow you guys. and that's kind of how i do things here at the photoshop training channel.i have my idea for a tutorial, and if something comes up as i'm doing it, i'll show it toyou, guys. anyway, that way, you, guys, can learn from different random ideas i have.so, now that we're done with this tutorial,

i'm just going to click on all these layers,press ctrl g to group them, and i'm just going to call this "text" because, you know, essentially,it's the text. and, actually, these two layers, the highlight and vignette are not part ofthat, so, only the text, here, which are the name and number. okay. and i have an image of a shirt, here,and i've already gone ahead and masked out everything around it. so, i'm going to grabthis shirt. i'm going to bring that into our composition, and i'm going to place it rightabout here, like so. and i'm going to change the blending mode to multiply, and i'm goingto create a new adjustment layer curves, and i'm going to create a clipping mask by holdingalt or command in-between the two layers,

and clicking, so you get this arrow rightnext to the adjustment layer icon. so, now, with any changes i make, only apply to thislayer. so i want to bring out the darkness, the shadows of that jersey. and if i movethis around, you can kind of see the effect that i'm going for, like you see the shadowaffecting the text on the jersey. so it kind of looks as if the folds were on the jersey.so, i can place that, maybe, here. and, again, you see the folds in the jersey, like so. so, i'm just going to place this, more orless, where i want it; something like, somewhere there, so i get this nice fold here on thej. then, you know what? actually, i'm going to grab this background layer and add it intothe text folder, and, actually, i want that

at the bottom, like so. and now that i havethis in one layer, i'm going to convert it into a smart object. that way, it's just nicelytucked away and i can distort it non-destructively if i want to. i'm going to ctrl click on theshirt layer mask, and i'm just going to click on the layer mask, here, to create exactlythe same mask. i'm going to add a color fill. black is fine. i'm going to drag that allthe way to the bottom, like so. now, i'm going to click above the curves adjustment layer,add a new layer, click on the brush, and just select a soft brush. and make it pretty big,maybe, 400 might be a little too big, so somewhere around 300, 320. and, now, i can start paintingin some shadows in here. and, by the way, if you make a shadow that's really strong,like that one, you can always fade it by going

into edit, and fade that down to somethingthat you want to work with. so, maybe, something like that. okay. and if the shadows are toostrong, of course, you can bring the opacity down, like that. we took the original name,number and texture, and applied it to a jersey, which i think is a much cooler effect thanwhat i originally had in mind. so, i hope you enjoyed that little extra tip. i thoughtabout it after i was done with the tutorial, and i figured, we will take it one extra step. well, guys, as always, i hope you enjoyedthis tutorial. if you have any questions, you can ask them down below. don't forgetto add me on facebook. follow me on youtube, and, of course, follow me on twitter, jrfromptc.so if you're watching this video and you like

the work that i do, then follow me on twitter,jrfromptc. and, of course, go to my website photoshoptrainingchannel.com and enter youremail address on the sidebar to get access to my subscriber only tutorials. as always,i hope you learned something from this tutorial. thank you for watching, and i'll talk to you,guys, next time.

Beanie Knitting Pattern 7Mm Needles


hi! i’m davina of sheepandstitch.com. today,we’re going to learn how to knit a cowl or scarf using seed stitch and any yarn youhave. now, i love seed stitch, because it’s got a great, nubby texture that lays flatand is the same on both sides. seed stitch is also knit entirely out of knits and purl.so, if you know how to knit, purl, cast on and cast off, then you’re ready to knitseed stitch. and if you don’t know how to do any of these things, then check out myhow to knit video series. now, this video is packed with a lot of information, so ifyou want to skip ahead or jump around, you can refer to the chapter markers down in thedescription. alright, ready to go? yeah? yeah? okay, let’s start knitting!

so in this video, we’re going to learn howto knit seed stitch on flat needles like this, in order to make a scarf. and we’ll alsolearn how to knit up seed stitch on circular needles like this so that we can make a cowl.and we’ll also learn how to cast off in pattern and also how to wet block if you decideyou want your cowl or scarf to have a little bit of drape. and we’ll also learn how tocalculate the right number of cast on stitches for any yarn weight that you have hangingaround. so the cowl i’ve knit up here is knit withbulky weight yarn. and it’s knit with just one skein of martta the merino, which is aone-ply merino yarn that’s so yummy. just one skein is needed to knit up this entirecowl, with quite a bit of yarn leftover. so

this is available in the sheep & stitch storeand it’s the color sunset. now to knit seed sittch on two needles, you’llneed to cast on an even number of stitches. on this needle, i’ve cast on 16 stitches,which is an even number. so the number of stitches that you cast on for your scarf dependson how wide you want your scarf to be. the number of cast on stitches determines thewidth of your scarf. so if i’ve cast on 16 stitches here, i can be pretty sure thatmy scarf will be at least this wide, but probably a bit wider. it will probably spread an extrainch or so when i knit into my stitches. so when you’re casting on your stitches,just eyeball how wide you want your scarf to be and cast on the number of stitches thatgets you the width you want, and prepare for

it to spread out a bit. okay, so this looks pretty good to me. i’mgoing to start knitting my seed stitch. so, seed stitch is basically a two row pattern.and we repeat those two rows. on row 1 we’re going to knit 1 and then purl 1. i’m goingto bring my yarn up front because that’s how we purl. then i’m going to go from thetop to the bottom, and we’ll purl that second stitch. and that’s the repeat for our row1: knit 1 and purl 1. so, we’ll repeat that. we’ll do another knit 1, and then bringour yarn up front for our purl. so we’re just alternating knits and purls, and we’llcontinue going. knit 1 and purl 1. if you ever forget whether you’re supposedto knit or purl, just look at the stitch that

went before. i’ve just done a purl stitch,and i can tell from this little bump here. so now i know that i need to do a knit stitchnext. so complete your first row of seed stitch doing one knit and one purl. once you’redone, we’ll move on to the second row. so, now i’ve finished row 1, and you cansee that my last stitch is a purl stitch. you can tell from the little bump here. sonow let’s work row 2. i’m going to turn my needle over. row 2 is really the oppositeof row 1. row 2 starts with a purl 1, so i’m going to push my needle from the top to thebottom, and i’ve got my yarn up front. i’m going to purl that first stitch. and thenwe’re going to knit our second stitch. and then we’re going to purl and then knit.so we’re doing a purl 1 and a knit 1. and

we’re repeating this to the end of our row.that’s all there is to row 2. we’re basically reversing row 1. so try that out and workrow 2 of your seed stitch, purling one and knitting one. so now i’ve finished my two rows of seedstitch and that’s pretty much all there is to seed stitch. you would just repeat thesetwo rows until our scarf is the length that you like. or until you run out of yarn atwhich point you would cast off. so now i’m doing my last purl stitch onmy row 2 and here’s my last knit stitch. so now i’ve just completed row 2 of my seedstitch. and that’s all there is to seed stitch.

now if you’re worried about getting confusedand forgetting what row you’re on. you actually don’t need to refer to what row you’reon. i’ll show you a hack i use so that i can knit seed stitch without referring torow 1 and row 2 and all that. the one thing you need to remember about seed stitch isthat you always knit your purl stitches and you purl your knit stitches. so we’ve gota purl stitch here, and you can tell by this bump. so i’ve got a purl stitch here, andi’m not going to purl into the purl stitch. i’m going to knit into my purl stitch. mynext stitch is a knit stitch, and i can tell by this little v-shape. and knit stitchescan be recognised by their v-shapes. so i’ve got a knit stitch here, and i’m not goingto knit into it. i’m going to purl into

it. so i’ll bring my yarn up front and purlinto that knit stitch. and here’s we’ve got a purl stitch, sowe’re not purling into it. we’re going to knit into it. so we’re doing the oppositeof what the stitch is. the stitch is a knit stitch, so we’re not going to knit intoit. we’re going to purl into it. so i like to think of it as opposites attract. the oppositeof a purl stitch is a knit stitch and the opposite of a knit stitch is a purl stitch.and if you don’t believe me, you can look at the back of your knits and purls. herewe’ve got a purl stitch and let’s turn it over. you can see that the back of it isa knit stitch. pretty crazy, right? and here we’ve got a purl stitch. if we turn it overyou can see that it is a knit stitch. so it

really is the opposite. so when you think of opposites attract, youcan think of the purl stitch not wanting a purl stitch. the purl doesn’t want the sameold purl stitch. it doesn’t want the same thing as what it is. it wants the opposite.it wants a knit stitch. you can think of all your stitches when you’re knitting seedstitch as being experimental, or being in an experimental phase. they don’t want thesame thing as themselves. they want something new and different. they want the exact opposite.so the purl stitch is not into other purl stitches. our purl stitch wants a knit stitch,so we’ll give our purl stitch a knit stitch. we’ll give it the opposite of what it is.our knit stitch isn’t into other knit stitches.

our knit stitch wants a purl stitch, so let’sgive that knit stitch a purl stitch. you’re giving your stitches the opposite of whatit is. it’s into new things, new horizons. it wants to experience things that are unlikeitself. so here we’ve got a knit stitch, so i’m going to purl that knit stitch. so just remember: opposites attract. you’llnever need to refer to your pattern to knit seed stitch. all you need to remember is thatyou knit your purls and purl your knits. you’re doing the opposite of what your stitch is.you can also think of opposites attract. so i hope that helps you knit your seed stitchwithout a care in the world. all you need to do is look directly at your stitches totell you what to knit.

knitting seed stitch in the round is verysimilar to knitting on flat needles. it follows the same principle in that we are knittingour purls and purling our knits. we’re not doing what we’re “supposed” to be doing.but we cast on a different number of stitches. we cast on an odd number of stitches to knitin the round. so something like 19, 21, 23. these are odd numbers. whereas when we’reknitting on flat needles, we cast on an even number of stitches. for this cowl, i’ve cast on 57 stitcheswith my martta the merino yarn. that gives me a cowl that is about 25” in circumference.and after i wet blocked it, it spread out to about 26”. just a quick tip. the needlesi’m using are 24” from this tip to this

tip - 24” and they are 10mm in size. now, in order to join this in the yarn, ineed to stretch out my stitches so that they actually meet. right now my stitches are kindof bunched up, and that’s because i don’t have that may stitches. remember my finishedcircumference is only 25” and my needles are 24” so i need to stretch out my stitchesso that they actually meet. i’m going to push my stitches, just like this. very primitive.we’re going to push our stitches to stretch them out so that they actually meet. herewe go. so now my stitches are right up close to the points of my needles so that i canactually join them in the round. oh! so here’s a tip. some people have saidthat they don’t like that when they join

in the round theres a bit of a gap where theyjoin. so i have a tip for you on how to minimise that join. to minimise the gap where you join in theround what i’m going to do is cast on one extra stitch. so i’ve got my odd numberof stitches. i’ve got 57 sts, and i’m going to cast on one extra stitch. now ifyou’re worried about this messing up your stitches, don’t worry because this extrastitch will disappear very quickly. it won’t become part of our knitting. so i’ve caston an extra stitch. now i’ve got 58 stitches on my needle. so i’m going to take my leftneedle and just grab that stitch that i just cast on, and i’m going to bring it overto my left needle like this. this yarn may

try to ride up, so don’t let it. just pullit down. i’ve clamped my fingers around it so it doesn’t fall away. and now my extracast on stitch is on my left needle. now i’m going to take this stitch right here, thissecond stitch on my left needle, and i’m going to bring my needle underneath it anddrop it over this stitch. so i’m going to pinch this first stitch here and bring thatsecond stitch over it. so now my second stitch is over my first stitch and i’m going totransfer this stitch back over to my right needle. so i’m going to take my right needleand bring that stitch back. my tail end is riding up again, so i’m going to grab thistail end and just pull it down. you’re not going anywhere, buddy. you’re staying inplace.

so now you’ll see that our extra stitchhas disappeared. we’ve just joined in the round. that extra stitch is right here now,and we’ve closed up any gaps that have formed. if you want, you can count up all of yourstitches, but i assure you that that extra stitch has disappeared. so now i have 57 stitcheson my needle. i don’t have 58 stitches, because that extra stitch is now down here.it’s joining our stitches together in the round. so when you do this, you minimise anyweird gap that forms when you knit in the round. so now we need to put our stitch marker inplace so we can mark the beginning and end of our round. i’m going to use one of myrings here. i love doing this because i frequently

do not have stitch markers around. so i’mgoing to take my ring ad put it onto my needle, and this will be my makeshift stitch marker. so now we’re ready to knit seed stitch inthe round. our first round is a knit 1 and then we’re going to purl 1. i’ll bringmy yarn up front and we will purl 1. and we’re going to repeat that: knit 1, purl 1 untilwe get to the last stitch of our round, and then we’re going to knit that guy. so verysimilar to seed stitch on two flat needles: knit 1, purl1, knit 1, purl 1. so let’swork this round together. just a little tip. if you’re knitting bulky weight yarn, andyou’ve cast on 57 stitches like me, it may be a little bit tight because your stitchesare stretched out. don’t worry about it.

just push your stitches up like this to getthem close to your needle point. so knit up round 1 and meet me back here and we’llwork round 2 together. so i’m nearing the end of round 1, doinga knit 1 and a purl 1. and now i’m at the last stitch of my round, and i’m going toknit that. so now i’ve finished my round 1. woohoo! so i’m going to bring my stitchmarker over. and now we’ll work round 2. so round 2 is very simple. we’re just goingto purl 1, so let’s bring our yarn up front, and we’ll do a purl 1 and a knit 1. andwe would repeat this all the way to the last stitch of our round at which point we wouldpurl 1. so the same principle applies to seed stitch in the round as it does on flat needles.

meaning that when you see a purl stitch, insteadof purling it, you would knit into it. and when you see a knit stitch you would purlinto it. so it’s not like stockinette stitch where you knit t the knits and purl the purls.with seed sittch you do the opposite of what the stitch is. so the stitch is a purl stitch,so you’re going to knit into it. the stitch is a knit stitch, so you’re going to purlinto it. so work round 2 of your seed stitch. so we’re nearing the end of round 2 andhere’s the last stitch of round 2 and we’re going to purl that knit stitch. perfect. sonow you’ve completed round 1 and round 2 of seed stitch. and now you would continueknitting, repeating round1 and round 2 until it becomes the height that you want, at whichpoint we can cast off.

i’m going to show you how to customise thispattern so that you can knit up a cowl in seed stitch using whatever yarn and needlecombination you have. first you’ll need a measuring tape like this. it’s best ifyou measure around your head or whoever’s head you’re knitting this cowl for, anddetermine how large you want the circumference of this cowl to be. so for me, i chose 25”because i like a nice narrow cowl. but if you want a really long infinity scarf, youcan consider going up to 50” or even 55” or 60.” use a measuring tape like this,measure around your head and determine the size that you want. and once you’ve donethat, write that size down. so for me, i’m going to write down 25.” once you’ve determinedyour size, write that down and we’ll move

on to the next step. so once you’ve decided how large you wantyour cowl to be and you’ve written it down, then you’re going to knit a gauge swatch.and this is my little gauge swatch here. and i’ve used the yarn that i’m going to knitmy cowl with and also the needles i’ll knit my cowl with. this is a much thinner yarnthan what i had previously. this is an aran weight yarn, so i’ve knit up seed stitch.and the number of stitches that you cast on need to be larger than 4”. so let’s see. my little swatch here is about6.25.” so when you cast on the number of stitches for your gauge swatch, make surethat when you measure out those stitches that

you have at least 4.” as you knit your seedstitch, your fabric will grow and expand. so at least 4”. now a typical gauge swatchis 4” by 4” upwards. so 4” stitch-wise and 4” row-wise, but i don’t think weneed to knit a whole gauge swatch. we can do a “cheaty” version because we’rereally only interested in the stitch count. we want to know how many stitches make up4” and that will help us determine how many stitches we need to cast on for our cowl.so here i’ve knit up about 3” and that’s perfectly fine. if you’re short on timeyou can knit up 2” in seed stitch and that’s fine as well. so once you have your gauge swatch knit up,you can measure out 4.” i’m not going

to measure right from the edge. i’m goingto measure from the middle because the middle of the swatch gives us the best reading ofour knitting. so i’m going to start here, and i’ve got a split ring marker. so i’mgoing to mark that area. i’m going to squeeze this stitch marker in. great. and i’m goingto measure from here up to 4” which is about here. so i’m going to bring in my secondstitch marker like this. you don’t have to use a split ring marker. you can eyeballit too. so now i want to figure out how many stitches make up 4” using my yarn and needlecombination. so here we go: 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, and 13. so for me, using my yarn, thisneedle and my unique knitting tension made from my hands, i get 13 stitches equals 4.”so i’m going to write this down. i’m going

to write down 13 stitches equals 4”. so now let’s do a bit of math. we know that13 stitches equals 4.” well, what about 25”? for me i know i want my cowl to be25”, so how many stitches equals 25”? if this sounds like middle school algebra,you’re right! i totally remember learning this in eighth grade. i’m going to get mycalculator out because i’m really bad at math. so what we’re going to do is figureout 4 times what equals 25. so i’m going to go 25 divided by 4 equals 6.25. so i knowthat if i multiply 4 by 6.25 then i get 25. so if you don’t believe me and you’rereally bad at math like i am, i’m going to double check. so 4 times 6.25 equals 25.perfect. so i’m going to do the same to

this side because whatever you do to one sideyou do to the other side. thank you mr. anderson. i totally remember that! so 13 times 6.25equals 81.25. so 81.25 is the number of stitches we need to cast on in order for our cowl tobe 25”. now obviously we can’t cast on 0.25 stitches.that s kind of funky. so we need to either round up or round down. when we knit seedstitch in the round, we need to have an odd number of stitches, so i would cast on either81 or 83, which are odd numbers. so depending on how much yarn you have or how you’refeeling, you would round up or round down to an odd number. i’m feeling generous soi’ll cast on 83 stitches, and that will get me a little more than 25” and i’mhappy with that. so you can use this formula

to figure out how many stitches to cast onso that you can knit the cowl of your dreams with the yarn and needles that you have athand. so once your cowl or scarf is the length thatyou want it to be, then we’re ready to cast off. so we’re going to cast off in pattern.and you can do this whether you’re knitting on flat needles or in the round. so let’scontinue in our seed stitch pattern. here’s a knit stitch, so i’m going to purl intothat. our next stitch is a purl stitch so i’m going to knit into that purl stitch.so now we’ve got two stitches on our right needle and i’m going to take my left needle,go underneath that first stitch and bring it over the second stitch. now we’re goingto move on and purl our next stitch, which

is a knit stitch. i’ll bring my yarn upfront and purl that knit stitch as we do when we’re knitting seed stitch. so we’ve gotwo stitches on our right needle. i’ll bring my left needle underneath that first stitchand bring it over our second stitch. so we’re basically casting off, but we’re castingoff in pattern. here’s a purl stitch so we’ll knit that and then bring our secondstitch over our first stitch. when you’re casting off you want to keep your hand niceand loose. you don’t want a death grip on your yarn. you want your cast off edge tobe nice and loose. loosey goosey. so continue casting off in pattern until you have onestitch left on your needle. i’m going to knit my last stitch and go underneath thatsecond stitch and bring it over like this.

great. so now i have one stitch left on myneedle. i’m going to get my scissors out and leave a 7” or 8” tail and then cutoff. now i’m going to take my tail and bring it to the front of my needle like this. andthen i’m going to take that stitch that’s on my stitch and bring it over that tail endand pull my tail through. now my stitches are secure! our swatch is off our needles.so now you can weave in your ends and wear your cowl or scarf into the world and enjoyit. or if you want your cowl or scarf to be a little bit wider or longer we can do a wetblock to stretch it out. so if you find that your scarf or cowl isa little too narrow and you want it to be longer, taller or wider, then you can do thatby doing what’s called a wet block. what

that means is that you would take your scarfor cowl and dunk it into water, push out the water and then lay it flat to dry. and youcan use sewing pins to pin your scarf or cowl in place. now that’s fairly drastic. whenyou do a wet block you can reshape your entire scarf or cowl. you can stretch it out quitedramatically. for me, i don’t really want to do a huge wet block, and i’ll link toa video that shows you how to do a wet block where i wet block a sweater. for me, wheni knit up this cowl i did a very “light wet block”. so, if you’re only lookingto gain an inch or two, then a light wet block is a good idea. so let’s get started. how i do what i calla “light wet block” is - i have some water

here, and i’ll lightly sprinkle my swatchon one side and then i flip it over and do the other side. then i stretch it out to thedimensions i want it to be, and then lay it flat dry. and that’s all there is to a wetblock, or a “light wet block.” so let’s do it together. take a towel and lay it downand put your knitting on top of it so your table or floor doesn’t get wet. i’ll takemy water here and lightly, kind of, drip it onto my project like that. so you can seeit’s staying on my yarn here. it’s not really absorbing, and that’s okay. i justwant to wet it a little bit. so i’m letting the water absorb and if i flip it over, ithas not seeped through the other side. so i’m going to wet the other side now. i don’twant it to be soaking wet. if i feel it, it

has soaked through a little bit. so maybei’ll put just a bit of water on here. so, just spreading the water around. this is kindof fun actually. [laughter] it’s not soaking wet. it’s just kind of damp. i need morewater because i’m working with bulky weight yarn. so here we go. now that my swatch iswet, i can stretch it out. so you can see that my swatch has actually evened out quitea bit. when we first started out, the corners weren’t that even. i just want to stretchthis out an inch or so, so i’m going to pull it like this. and that for me is enough.i can get half an inch on this swatch. so if you don’t want it to grow that much,you don’t have to stretch it out too much. you can see that it really is stretching asit’s wet. you can really manipulate the

fabric when it’s wet. i’m going to leaveit like this and then lay it to dry. that’s it. just leave it alone and by the next dayyour cowl or scarf will have dried in this shape. and then you can wear it out into theworld. pretty cool, right? so that is how you knit a scarf or cowl in seed stitch withwhatever yarn or needles you have on hand. thank you so much for watching! if this videohelped you out then consider subscribing to this channel for more knitting tips and tutorials.and hey! visit sheepandstitch.com to drool over yummy yarn, knitting kits and our everypopular pattern tutorials. okay, that’s it for me i’m davina of sheepandstitch.com.have a great day and happy knitting!

Beanie Knitting Pattern 5 Ply


hi guys this is going to be the tutorial that'sgoing to show you how to make one of these riptide slouch hats this one i did in two different colors this one is a sold color, with a different color rim for this tutorial you're goingto need two different and color yarn or you can just do the whole hat in one color

it's up to you. i just prefer to have a darker band on my hat's. this one i used two different skeins to just alternate. and what you're going to need in the way of a hook you will need two different size hooks one i it's a five millimeter or a size "h"hook and a 6 millimeter hook or size "i" hook also you're going to need atapestry needle to close up the top of the hat

get those items and let's get started okay to begin you wanna start by usingyour five-millimeter hook or h hook and you want to chain 66. this size will fit an adult female or adult male you can adjust the size by multiples of 2 a even number so whatever you decide whoever your making it for, just end with an even number

for purposes of this tutorial i am just going to make a small swatch, but you go ahead andchain 66 and then when you're ready you want toslip stitch into the first stitch to form a ring then you want to chain two and this will count as your firststitch so working in the next stitch we're going to do a double crochet andi'm going

under two out of the three stitches each chain has 1, 2, 3 strings, i'm going under two not just one but both of the loops so continue to double crochet all the way around your chain. socontinue to do that and i will see you back in a moment ok i have just come to the end of round 1 and you want to slip stitch in the top of the beginning

chain two to end the round. then again you want to chain two now for round two we're going to bealternating with front post double crochet and then back post double crochet, youwant to start with a front post double crochet becausethis chain at the end of the row will become a back post and you'll see as you go along so you want tostart with a front post double crochet and how you do that is you yarn over, yougo and grab the post and then you double crochet using the post:

and yarn over and to do a back post you want to go into the the back push that double crochet back and double crochet onto the post. again when you want to do a front post, pull forward and do a double crochet, and then the back post go and between the stitches, push that post back and do a double crochet on the post, you'regoing to be alternating

front post double crochet and then back post double crochet, continue this all the way around i will see you willget back up to the beginning okay when we get to the end of round two, again you're going to want to slip stitchin that beginning the top at the beginning chain two andthen chain two again then you will be repeating exactlywhat you did for round two for round three, which is the very first stitch is going to be a

front post double crochet, and the second will be a back post double crochet, so you're basically doing a front postdouble crochet in all the places that you did last round and a back postdouble crochet in all the places that you did last round so i have come to the end of round two and again to end the round, you on a slipstitch in the top of the chain two whoops, i'm trying to go under

two and then you want to chain two now to start round three you're going torepeat the exact same thing we did for round two you're going to be putting a front postdouble crochet where you did a front post doublecrochet last round and a back post double crochet in the places that you did a back post double crochet lastround so we start over the front post double crochet last round so we're goingto continue by doing a front post double crochet this round

then in the next stitch will be a back post double crochet then a front post double crochet, then you're going to berepeating what you did for round two and again for round three and on your rim here you can see the very first row was row one and then you can see here theconnection to the next post that's round two and thenof course we're starting round three

which is connected to the next postthat's how you can count how many rows you have 1 2 and 3. you want to have a total 8 rows so you're going to be repeating round 2 until you have a total of eight rows and this..... let me show you you can see it on this one better because it's variegated this is the rim. so you start counting

1, 2, 3, 4, 5 , 6, 7, 8, you'll have a total of 8 rows of this front post, then back post, front post, back post, so when you've gotten all 8 rounds done then i will show you how to begin the next section of your hat.okay for the purposes of this tutorial i just went ahead and i finished my roundthree, but you go ahead and do your total eight rounds for the rim of the hat andthen your ready to change colors and hook sizes

when you're ready to be the main part inthe hat you want to change from the five-millimeter hook over to your six-millimeter hook or "i" hook so i am just going to slip my new hook into my loop and if i was actually making this hat i would cut my yarn here because iwould be done with this color but since this is a tutorial, i won't be cutting it just going to grab my next color and pull it through

my loop and then tighten by pulling the string and now i'm working with the newcolor then you want to start off by chaining two now for this round all you want to do is, do one double crochet in each stitch around so very easy round here. and since you're supposed to have

8 rounds of your rim, this is round 9 so round 9 just put one double crochet each stitch around, when you've got thatdone i'll see you back here for round 9. okay when you get to the end of round 9 you want to slip stitch using the post of the chain 2 i'm just going to go, not into thestitch, just like in between the stitches and slip stitch to end the round, then chain 2 now for round 10, you're going to be doing all back post

double crochets so you're going to bedoing what we did here except you won't be alternating. just do back post so you go in and you push that post back and you do a double crochet, again push that back and do a double crochet only doing back post double crochets for this round for round 10, and you will start to see a ridge starts to

form. so you and continue to the back post until you get back up to the beginning and i'll show you what to do next okay i just got done with round 10, again i'm always ending the round by not going into the stitch of the chain 2, just slip stitch onto the post of the chain 2 you will have a ridge, probably easier to show you on this one you will have this ridge going down the center but this isthe clear back of the hat and since it's a slouch hat you're going to see it because it will be folded

you know while you wear it, so you reallydon't notice it and the coloration here is these are the two rounds that we just did.the first one was the double crochet on the way round and then the next one is back post andall the way round and you'll be repeating those last two roundsover and over again so the next round, round 11, will be double crochet each stitch, so you ended your round

as normal here sorry my yarn is is getting tangled a bit. so when you've finished round 11, you will start again exactly the same. chain 2 and putting one double crochet in all stitches this round just like you did for round 9, and then at the end of this round, you'll slip stitch backin here again and then you'll repeat what you did for round 10

which is just doing back post double crochet on all posts this be repeating those two rounds overand over and over again this hat i alternated thecolors and what i did it for the first round when you start your hat and you change to your six millimeter the first round i did double crochets inthis lighter color then i went ahead and i switched to mydarker color and did my back post double crochet rowand then i did my next

row of double crochets with the same dark color. then i switched to my lighter color and did my back post double crochet row and then i get a row double crochet withit and i just kept alternating every two rows once you get this first done thisis the only one you actually have just one color the rest you'll be doing two rows before you switch if you want color it like this, i really like this hat. this one

was done all in variegated colors as you can see and it has a really nice effect, look to it, and this one is eveneasier because you don't have to switch every row. you just do a double crochetthen a back post double crochet row than double crochet row and a back postdouble crochet it's really easy and it also has a really nice texturethat you can see especially if it's a lighter color like this so feel free to color it however you like.you're going to be

repeating those two rows over and overand over again a until you get to round 20 so you started your very first round of your hat you had eight rows and in the firstround of double crochets is round 9 and then ten, so each row here so to count easier, ever ridge here, is 2 rows so this is rows 9 and 10 11 and 12 , 13 and 14 15 and 16, rounds

17 and 18 then rounds 19 and 20 so when you get to the end of round 20 then we're going tostart reducing, so continue that until you get to the very end of round20 and then i will show you how to close upyour hat so when you're ready the first round of reducing round 21. you want to begin,

let me get closer chain 2 and then you want do a double crochet decrease. how you do that is, yarn over and i going through one stitch and pull up a loop the go right into the next stitch and pull up a loop, then yarn over and pull through three loops then yarn over and pull through one and then the next stitch

will be a double crochet. continue torepeat that for the round you'll do a double crochet decrease and then you'll do i double crochet then a double crochet decrease and then you do a double crochet so continue that all the way round and when you get back up here to the beginningi'll show you what to do next when you get to the last stitch of the round if you have another stitch here just do a double crochet in it if you find that you have an extra stitch

at the end of the round. when you get to the end you'll end it like usual by slip stitching onto the post of the chain 2 then chain 2. now for this round you're gonna do like you did here tomake their ridges you're going to be doing a back post double crochet so that was round 21 so for round 22 you want to just be doing a back post stitch around. so continue to do that for

round 22 and i'll see you back here in amoment just got done with round 22 slip st on the post of the chain 2, for round 23 you want to chain 2, and for this round you will be doing a double crochet decrease in each stitch around so just go in and do like you did before only this time instead of doing adouble crochet next you'll do anotherdecrease. so you will keep

double crochet decreasing all the wayaround when you get to the end of round 23 i'll show you how to do round 24, then 24 will be the last round again if you get to the end of the round and you have 1 stitch left just do a double crochet in it, then slip st onto the post of the chain 2, now for the last round you want to chain 2 and you'll be doing

a back post double crochet in each stitch around so this is your last round and you are justgoing to be doing what you have been doing already butthis time it's going to go much quicker because wedon't have as much stitches left so just keep on doing your back post double crochets trying to do my row off camera real fast, because it's a short round few more

stitches we are tightening up that space so itis getting smaller okay when you get to the end of the round we will slip stitch actually this very last round we want togo into the actual top of the chain two then chain 1 and cut your yarn leaving yourself a decent size tail to use to sew the top of the hat

so you want to turn your hat, grab your tail, pull it through and turn your hat inside out you want to do your sewing on the inside of the hat not the outside, get your tail and get your tapestry needle we're going to be weaving through the top of thestitches and just be careful because you havethis line right underneath it. just make sure you'rebeing careful and you're just getting stitches ofthis last round, don't accidentally go through

the other round behind it if you just want to push this back, just to keep those stitches sticking up, the stitches are fairlylarge so it should be pretty easy if youconcentrate do a fewstitches and then pull your yarn through. you're making a pulley, it's gonna grab allhere stitches okay when we get back up to thebeginning

you'll pull to close this hole up atthe top just pull to tighten it and take your tapestry needle and gothrough one side of the hole to the other side the hole and thenpull it until i have a loop left, then stick your needle through the loop and pull it to create a knot, then do it again one-sided of this hole to the other

so i have a loop put the needle through the loop and pull one more time, this time i'll leave my loop there like that, and i'll use it to tie a couple of knots just to make sure that won't come loose then i grab the loop and just twist it

put your needle through the end, then hide it down the stitches of the hat just a little ways, and pull through tug it alittle and cut your yarn turn your hat back inside out and there you go. i hope yours came out really nice. and i like to show you this one too from this angle, don't know if i showned you before.

so there's different ways that you can color it, you can mess around with different ways of color and if you like you can do one whole hat with one skein of yarn so no worries there so that's the tutorial to showyou how to make the riptide slouch hat i hope that you enjoyed this tutorial, please don't forget to click like and please don't forget to share thisvideo and if you're not a subscriber yetplease don't forget to subscribe thanks

so much for watching


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