Knitting Ideas For Wedding Gift


hi i’m jenny from the missouri star quiltcompany. take a look at these bags behind me. last year when sarah was at market shewas walking around carrying a big bag. you know the bag is almost as big as she is, buteverybody wanted know how she made it and you know how to make it themselves and sowe’re going to do a bag tutorial for you. now we’ve already done the three, threebags out of one charm pack and this is three big bags out of one jelly roll.so to make this bag what you’re going to need is twelve strips. two and half inch stripsand out of one jelly roll you’re going to get three bags. you’re also going to needa half a yard or a yard and a half of lining fabric, for the handles, the pocket and thelining and you’re going to need a about

a yard of batting. and this can be a scrapyou know, i, i don’t think you can buy, well i don’t know if you can buy a yardor not, but it’s just a, i used a scrap from the bottom of, of another quilt.so the first thing you’re going to do is open up your jelly roll and you’re goingto choose twelve strips that you love that go together that you want on your bag. you’regoing to put those strips right sides together like this and you’re just going to sew downone side of them, quarter of an inch, iron them open and you’re just going to keepadding them together to make a set of twelve. so i have a set over here that i’ve sewntogether, right here. and by the way the fabric we’re using here is the “civil war jubilee”fabric by barbara brackman from moda and the

ones that are up on the wall, these are madewith “tula pinks acacia” fabric. i just wanted to show you two different styles. these,i mean they’re just beautiful bags. so here you can see i’ve sewn twelve stripstogether and pressed them all nice and flat and now we need to quilt them. now the machinequilting on this is super easy and it’s really left up to personal preference whatyou like to do. i’m linear so i like lines and i like things to follow. so you’re goingto take your batting and you’re, you’re going to leave it a little bit bigger andyou can see i have a pretty good size piece here and i’m going to lay this so it comesfairly close to one edge, like this. and fairly close to a top and then what i’m going todo is just kind of trim off this bottom edge

a little bit, because i don’t want a tonof extra when i’m, when i’m quilting. and basically i’m going to anchor one sideand just start sewing long seams down here. long rows of stitching down here just to anchorthe quilt. it doesn’t matter how far apart they are. how close they are. none of thatreally matters. it doesn’t matter if you go cross ways or you want to cross hatch itor you want to go in straight lines. that is left totally up to you. what we’re tryingto do is give the bag some body. so what i’m going to do. the other thingis, is that on, on a smaller, you know on smaller pieces like this you don’t reallyhave to anchor it terribly. you know you just, what i’m going to do is i’m going to sewone seam down along the edge and anchor my

pieces to my batting and then i’m just goingto kind of smooth as i go along. if you’re a little uncomfortable with that you can putsome pins in it. you can also use some basting spray and stick it on. i’m just always ina hurry to you know get things done so i like to do it.so now that i have my piece flat and smooth on my batting, i just going to take this overto the sewing machine and i am just going to sew straight down one side like this andyou just kind of let it rip. so i’m just sewing right along the edge. i’m lettingmy presser foot be my guide and i’m just making sure that it’s generally on there.we’re attaching it and i just let this go. sew it down. and because you’re going fromone side to the other, it will eliminate any

puckers or, you know folds or anything likethat, because you’re just going to go from one side to the other.so now i’m going to pull this out like this and i’m just going to slide it right backforward and do it again. now, now how close you want to do this is entirely up to you.i’m going to like eyeball about a half an inch. you can run yours right next to it ifyou want. i’m just going to eyeball about a half an inch, because every time you getto a seam line over here it’s going to straighten you back up again. so even if you get a littleoff it’s not going to really show. so now you can see i’m still eyeballingabout a half and inch over here and the next seam i take is going to be right at the seamso it just kind of straightens you up. you

can put as many rows in there as you want.i’m going to end up with one two three four sew lines per strip, but really whatever youwant to do. it’s really just to give it some texture and some body. so i’m goingto go ahead and keep sewing these and i’ll meet you back here.so now i’ve got all my rows sewn together and see it just gives it a little bit of oomph.a lit bit of you know, body to it and i want you to take a good look at my seams, becausethey’re not perfect. you know they’re not completely straight. they’re not alwaysright on the seam, you know they’re just, it’s just not going to matter. when youlook at these purses it’s not the exact quilting you look at and you’ll see in thisone i’m about a half an inch apart on these.

maybe three quarters or an inch and this oneover here is just quarter inch intervals. they, we use the presser foot just at thevery next seam align. so it’s just, it’s kind of whatever look you want and how muchsewing you want to do. so the next thing we’re going to do is trimthis up and we’re just going to use our ruler and our rotary cuter and we’re goingto cut right along the edge of our strip here and this is just going to clean it up, becausethis piece, this fabric piece is going to become the pattern for your lining. and ilike to save these little pieces here that are about an inch, because they’ll, that’swhat’s going to go in my handles. so i’m going to flip this around and do the otherside. these big bags are so handy. if you

added a few more strips on it, you could evenuse it to hold your, your cutting mat and your ironing board when you go quilting. youknow it’d make a great quilting bag and it’s all from stuff we just have, you know,so it’s not like we’re. i’m sure all of us have a few two and half inch stripsin our stash, haha, i sure know i do. alright on these end pieces right here i’mgoing to trim this off also, but i’m going to come in about a quarter of an inch fromthe furthest selvedge, because they’re not going to end up exact. so i want to make surei don’t get any selvedges in there. so i can use my ruler to line up on my strips andmake sure that i’m pretty straight across and then i’m just going to trim this offright here. make sure i’m still straight

across. there’s a lot of things you justkind of, when you’re dealing with a bag this big it gets a little bit big for your,your cutting boards. so you can always fold in half or you know that kind of thing tomake it more manageable depending upon the size of your table and all that. i kind ofuse my lines on my ruler to make sure that i’m fairly lined up, fairly square i guessi should say. and that looks pretty good. so let me just get rid of these over here.and look how nice and clean this is now. you know it’s all cleaned up. you can see here’sthe back where we’ve sewn through the, the batting and i mean it just looks great.so now this is our pattern for our lining and we want to cut that before we go any furtherand this is, this is just some fabric and

again you’re just going to need a yard andhalf of this and it’ll take care of everything. you’ll have enough for everything. and youshould be able to get your lining right out of, by folding your bag in half you’ll getthe exact amount that you need over here. you’ll be able to just lay your ruler downand give that a cut. now, because, because the bag doesn’t have any seems in it yetwe don’t need to allow for any seams. we’re just going to go ahead and figure out howwide our bag is and then we’re going to trim our lining so that we have our lining.and then i’m going to go ahead and cut the selvedge off the top of this so that i don’tby accident get, get them stuck in the side of my bag. and you can see what i’m doinghere is i just folded this over so that it

makes it a little more manageable for my ruler.i’m making sure everything’s lined up. then i’m just going to come across hereand trim my selvedges off like that. and this should now be the exact same size as yourbag. so we’re going to set that apart or asideover there and then we need to cut our handle strips. the handle strips are four inchesand you’re going to need four of them and i’ve already cut mine over here, right here.and you’re also going to need a one inch strip of batting to go inside your handles.the other thing you’re going to need from this piece right here is you’re going toneed your pocket. so i like to, depending upon the size of the pocket you want, i’mgoing to take this and cut this at the fold,

because every pocket measurement is different.you can see i have a tall one here and it’s set up on the bottom. over here i have a shorterone and it’s actually set into the bottom seam. so it’s, you know again it’s, it’syou can play this and have a little fun with this.so i’m going to cut this at the fold, right here. and i like a double pocket so what i’mgoing to do is i’m going to fold my pocket like this and i think probably i’ll layit on the bag to see exactly how wide i want it and i don’t want it quite that wide.so i think that will be wide enough, i’m just going to cut about two inches off ofthis piece. this will make my bag, i mean my pocket, oh fourteen by twenty. and so i’mjust going to trim this off right here. you

can put different pockets. these bags havedifferent pockets on either side. you can see they’re, they’re different. you cando whatever you want, i’m going to do the same. so i’m going to fold this one andtrim it to fourteen also. so now we’re just down to the assembly.so the first thing we’re going to do is make our handles and our handles, i like tosew, i like a two strip handle, because i want to be able to make it as long as i wantto. and, so i sew my ends together, my selvedges together like this. and i going to come rightover here and do that. make sure my, my, make sure i don’t have any selvedge showing andi think i do have a little bit on this other side so i’ll take a little bit deeper seam.then i’m going to trim that off and head

back over here to the iron. so i’m justtrimming this extra fabric off. and then this is how i do my handles and youknow i try to do everything the easiest way possible. so we’ll just, we’ll just lookat it and see. i’m going to scoot this over a little bit. move this out of the way. andthen when i iron my handles what i do is i iron a quarter of an inch side on one side.so i’m just going to iron this whole thing like this and just keep sliding this down.k, now i’m getting close to the end of this ironing and the reason i’m folding one sidedown is, because for me this is the easiest way to do this.then what you’re going to do is you’re going to cut some one inch strips of battingor a little bit shorter, little bit smaller

than one inch i think and i have a piece righthere. and i’m just going to lay my ruler on here, batting is kind of a bunch of fluff.this also does not have to be an exact science, because we’re just going to eyeball it andgive us some strips that are just about, about an inch. we’re not worry about how, youknow how exact they are. and then what i do and i want you to get agood look at this, because this is how i put my handles together. what i do is i lay mybatting down the center of the strip like this. i fold the piece with the raw edge overand the piece i’ve ironed under i’m going to fold over the other side like that. sothen i’m just going to go along and stitch down this, this seam right here and stitchit closed and i just take the whole thing

over here and i just run it through my, mypresser foot like this and i put my, my needle right on the, close to the edge as i can getit and i just keep folding this over and running this down. just like this. and when i getto the end of my batting strip, you know i don’t worry about piecing them togetherwhen i get to the end. i just slide another piece in there.these do make a super long handle so you need to judge that on your side. i’m taller soi can take a longer handle, but you know if sarah tried to carry my bag as tall as i am,you know she’s a lot shorter than i am. so it’d be dragging on the ground. so youjust need to make sure your handles fit you and it’s in a comfortable spot, which you’llbe able to do that as we, as we put them together

you’ll be able to see how, how that’sgoing to work. k i just slipped another piece of batting in there so i could keep goingalong and i just kind of lay one, one over the other as i’m sewing. i just then foldit over and just keep sewing. so now i’ve finished sewing the first seamon my strip and i’m going to add two more and this is just to give it strength and bodyand i use my presser foot and i line up my presser foot with the edge and sew anothertwo more seams. so i’m going to three total across this, because when we attach the handlewe’ll be sewing right along the edge. so i just use my, the edge of my presser footas a guide on this one. on both sides of that center seam. ok so now i’m finishing upthe other side of my handle and i’m just

finished going down this other side and ifyou get it lined up right, you really can just push on the presser foot and let it go.so now my handle is done and when you flip it over this is the side of the handle that’son the outside. so you can see, you know it has a real nice clean look to it. just straightstitching sewed down. easy as pie. alright, now let’s get to some of this assembly.get rid of some of these extra things i don’t need. oh i’ve got them all here my pockets,my, my handles. alright, so now this bag right here you, takea look at these behind me. this one i have my strips running sideways. this one they’rerunning up and down. either way i like to cut across the bottom of my bag, so that,so that i have a seam there to stick my handles

in and you don’t have to do that i just,that’s just kind of how i like to do it. so i’m going to iron a little seam on hereso i know where to make my cut and then i’m just going to go ahead and cut straight downthis. it’s just a little bit bigger than my ruler and then i’m going to have twohalves. make sure nothings under here, haha, don’t, don’t, don’t want to cut my strapin half. there we go. alright here we are. little bit more. there we go. ok, so now wehave two halves. so once you’ve got your bag cut in halfthen you’re ready to put your straps on and your pocket. so i’m going to go aheadand trim off the end of these straps. like this so they’re nice and straight and i’mgoing to get my pocket ready to go on. now

i don’t have to worry at all about theseside seams, cause they’re going to go under the pocket, but i do have to worry about thisseam here. so i’m going to take this and sew this on the sewing machine closed. soit’s going to make a little bit of a tube. and then i’m just going to turn it rightside out. so we’re going to turn this right side outlike this and then i’m going to press it nice and flat so it’ll lay. so here wherethis fold is we’re going to press that and we’re just going to press it straight upon the top. we want a nice flat pocket. alright, so now you’re going to positionyour pocket where you want it and as you make a lot of these you’ll, you’ll developa system. you know it’ll start, you’ll,

you’ll be like “oh i like it there”you know, i know that this bottom is going to curve over, under a little bit. so i’mgoing to come up about four or five inches from the bottom and i’m going to lay mybag on there and then i’m going to lay my strap on there. my strap is going to hangoff about an inch and i’m going to follow it all the way up here to make sure that it’sstraight. now the edge of your pocket gives you a really good idea where to lay your straptoo. it gives you a good place to pin and this is a, this is a place you want to pin.make sure when you use this strap, because for most of you the strap is going to be toolong. you know it’s going to be a little bit too long. so i’m actually going to shortenthis myself. and, and take a little bit off

so that’s it a little bit more fitted forme, cause you don’t want your bag to drag on the ground, haha, and this strap couldbe long enough to drag on the ground. so then we’re going to pin this. make surethis, we’re going to pin where the pocket is so we make sure that we’re holding everythingdown. like this. i want to pin up here again. and then i’m going to put a pin up hereat the top, because i want to be sure that i’m going to stop about an inch from thetop, because i’ve got, i want to, i’m going to need some seam room up here wheni put my, my lining in. go ahead and pin this side over here. pin my pocket side. therewe go. and i’m using my jelly roll strips as a guide to keep my handle straight andi have a little extra handle over here. so

i’m just going to trim that off. give meabout an inch extra like that and then we’re going to sew this down right along the edgeof the strip. ok, so i’m at the sewing machine and we’rejust going to sew right along the edge of this and i just watch it through the, throughmy presser foot to make sure that i’m staying right along the edge. and i ease my pins out as i go alongand then i’m going to stop just before this pin up here and i’m going to go slide thisdown and sew the other side. and that should catch your pocket completely. there we go.and you’re going to do the same thing to all the other side as well and the other sideof the bag. so i’m going to go ahead and finish this up and i’ll meet you right backhere.

ok, so i’m back here. i’ve got my pocketsewn on, my pocket sewn shut, my straps sewn on and i’ve got two identical sides. nowwhat we’re going to do is we’re going to lay them right sides together and we’regoing to sew the bottom shut and i’m going to go ahead and put a couple of pins in here.anchor this down and then we’re going to sew up the sides as well. sew straight acrossthe bottom and straight down the sides. so let’s head over to the sewing machine anddo that. alright, so here we go along the bottom. i’mgiving this about a half an inch seam allowance and i’m going to sew right over my strapsright here and a little bit of a backstitch. there we go. alright, so i’ve got my sidesand my bottoms done and now i’m going to

trim off my extra handles right here. that’sa hunk of handle right there. trim off that and i’m going to take my pins out, whichthey’re sometimes a little hard to find in this batting. but i want to make sure they’reout or i will forget them and they will be sewn into my lining, haha, and i will be,oh my goodness pocking myself. alright, now we are almost ready for our bag.the only thing we have to do now is square the bottom. i like a bag that sits and squaringa bottom is super easy. so let me just show you how that, how that works. i’m just clippinga few extra threads. so you’re going to reach on either side of your bag like thisand you’re going to pull that apart. now however, and then you’re going to line,you’re going to line your side seam in with

your bottom seam and sometimes it helps tostick your hand in there. here let me get this stuff out of the way so you can likereally see this. so i am, i have my hand in there and i’m pushing it apart and i’mfeeling for these two seams to line up. now however far in you go that’s double, your,your bottom is going to be double that width. so if i’m measuring two inches like this,which this is just about two inches and i have those two seams lined up, the bottomseam and the side seam. like this. then you’re, you’re, you’re going tosew two inches out from either side. so let me make sure this feels right to me in there,you have to make sure nothing gets caught in these handles. and, and that feels goodso this is going to give me a bottom about

this wide and i think that’s pretty good.and if you want you can take a ruler and you can just draw a line across there so you havea sew line on and that’s pretty handy sometimes. i have a, well i have a little pencil heresomewhere. let me see. a pencil, a pencil, here it is. here we go. i know i had one theresomewhere. so we’re just going to draw a line acrosshere and that will give me just something to aim for and we’re going to do it on bothsides of this thing. so my hand is back inside and i am, let me clip off this thread righthere and i am pushing those, that, pushing the seams out to make it wide. i’m goingto run the side seam and the bottom seam different directions and i’m going to come in andyou can actually measure this. you can say

i want it to be four inches so i’m goingto come in two. so there’s our two i mark right there and then i’m going to flattenthis out a little bit like this. lay my ruler across there and draw the line and there aremany more effective pencils than a ball point pen, haha. so you might look at that.now what we’re going to do is sew straight across this and i’m going to backstitchthis as well, because i want this to stay in. make sure you remove your pin. and backstitch.you know the only reason we don’t backstitch in quilting is, because everything is enclosedin another seam so we don’t need to. but in every other kind of sewing, we backstitch.alright, so here we are on this one. i did the manual backstitch on that, haha, i’lldo the real backstitch on this. there we go,

haha, sometimes i just get in a hurry.alright, now you can trim this off, but i would highly suggest flipping your bag rightside out and looking to make sure it is the right width before you trim it off, becauseyou can’t glue that back once it’s gone. so that looks like a pretty good width. seehow the bag is, it’s got a good, a good sit, a good straight down side and we’vematched up our, everything, everything just has laid together very nicely. so now i’mjust going to open this up and i’m going to, i’m going to go ahead and trim off thisbottom piece right here and i’ll show you how i’m doing that. right here. just becareful and don’t cut your bag and then i’m going to trim my other side. there wego. make sure my seams are out of the way

and i’m only cutting one thing here.alright, now we have our outside of our bag completely done and we only have to do thelining. remember our lining is, is made just like our purse, but we don’t have any ofthe handles or anything like that and we have a fold on the bottom. so all we’re goingto do is we’re going to put his right sides together and we are going to sew right downthe sides and then just pull our bottom piece out to make our bottom and that’s we haveto do to this lining piece. so let’s sew the sides. make sure your top pieces lineup. cause your sometimes the fold isn’t always at the, in the right spot.alright, now on this other side we’re going to leave a little opening. so i’m goingto sew up about hm maybe about ten inches

and then i’m going to lift up my needleand i’m just going to move it up here a few inches, cause we need a hole to turn ourbag through. making sure everything is still lined up.so what i’ve done is i sewed my side seams and then i just boxed the corners by measuringup two inches, drawing my line across and sewing it and then sewing across it and trimmingit off so now the lining will fit perfectly into the bag.alright, so now we’re ready to put our purse together. the main body of the purse is goingto be inside out and our lining is going to be right side out. so i’m just going toslide this down in here and slide the two together and so they should go together sothey’re right sides together like this.

then i’m going to take my side seams onmy lining and line them up with the side seams on the bag. they should fit pretty snugglyand be you know, both fit together. and i’m going to put a pin on here on the side. likethis. on both sides so one over here as well. line up my side seams. the next thing i’mgoing to do is make sure my handles are tucked down. we do not want to get this handles inthis. so we’re going to tuck those down. make sure they are not up where we are sewing.so what i’m actually going to do is i’m just going to fold this handle down, but i’mgoing to put a, a pin on that lining where it’s going to hit so that i know that handleisn’t going to sneak up in there and get into my seam.alright, now let’s go over to the sewing

machine and sew this down. now if one of yourpieces is a little different than the other one, you can just take in that side seam justa little bit so that it fits. that’s the easiest way to do that. alright, what we’regoing to do is we’re going to just sew, of about a half inch, quarter inch seam alonghere. alright, i’m just about to the end of this seam and it’s completely enclosedand i’m going to backstitch on that a little. and then we’re going to turn it throughthe side. so this is where that opening we left on thesides comes in. i’m going to pull my lining out, find my opening, and then i’m goingto pull the whole bag through that opening. so it’s going to be a little bit of workand you’re going to have to be careful,

we don’t want to rip that opening too big.whoop, i just pulled a few stitches. it’s coming, it’s coming. i put my hand in there.make sure my corners are boxed out on both pieces. like that and like that and then i’mgoing to fold this lining, push this lining down inside the bag.so you can see right here. it’s all getting pushed down inside there. now actually beforewe get it completely in there we need to sew up this side seam. so what i do is i takea hold of these ends right here and i pull them out and i’m going to iron those twodown so it makes a little seam like this. you can do this by hand, but i like to justpress it so it lays together real nice. and then i’m just going to top stitch alongthe top of this, this one. this is a real

easy way to do it. it’s not the most finishedlooking, but it works for me, haha. alright, so here we go, over here and i’mjust going to sew these two pieces together now that i have my bag all turned and i’mgoing to go right along the edge. we want to make this as nice looking as possible.and there we are up where the seams starts and our bag is closed up. and you just geta little seam like this, i’ll show you, hang on. there we go. you just get a littleseam like this and works really well. so then we’re just pushing it back downinto the bag and we’ve got one more thing to do before we’re done and i like to topstitch the top of this bag so it lays nice and flat. so i’m going to, i got to getsticky fingers. i’m going to roll this down

like this and make sure it lays. and righthere where my handles are, i’m going to pin that right there. so i’m going to pinthat handle up, because i’m going to sew right across the top of that handle. justlike this on all four handles. and if you pin in those four places, pretty much theother parts will lay down pretty good and you’ll be able to just zoom around thistop and finish this up. cause it’s starting to get pretty exciting, we almost have a bag.a finished bag. one of three that we can make with this jelly roll, haha.alright, so here we go and i’m going to sew on the top, top stitching. i’m goingto start at the side seam. so my starting and ending point will be hidden on the sideand not in the front of my bag. i’m going

to line my presser foot up with the edge ofthe bag. cause i just want about a quarter of an inch seam. and then i’m just goingto go right across this handle. just like this. then i’m going to make sure this partof the bag is laying down. and then i like to go around one more time when i’m doneand do it right along the top edge. so we’re just going to go ahead and sew all the wayaround this. look at this, hallelujah, ha, the bag is done.i added one more little row of top stitching on the very top edge of this seam right hereyou can see it. and it’s done. look how cute this is. look at that. awesome. thisis a great size. i’m going to florida next week. i think i could put my flip flops andmy beach towel in here. anyway, we hope you

enjoyed this tutorial on the big bag fromthe missouri star quilt company.

Knitting Ideas For Valentines Day


r1: 6 sc in magic ring (6) r2: inc (repeat 6 times = 12) r3: sc, inc (repeat 6 times = 18) r4: 2sc, inc ( repeat 6 times = 24) r5: 3sc, inc (repeat 6 times = 30) r6: 4sc, inc (repeat 6 times = 36) r7: 5sc, inc (repeat 6 times = 42) r8: 6sc, inc (repeat 6 times = 48) r9: 7sc, inc (repeat 6 times = 54)

r10: working in blo sc around r11-12: sc around r13: 8sc, inc (repeat 6 times = 60) r14-19: sc around r20: ch 2, hdc around, sl st to 2nd ch r21-22: ch 2, hdc around, sl st to 2nd ch r23: ch 2, hdc around, sl st to 2nd ch r20: sl st around r10: 8sc, inc (repeat 6 times = 60)

r11: 60sc

Loom Knitting Ideas Pinterest


hi everyone i'm jacy from craft life and i'mhere today to teach you how to make the basic phone case with one loom. this tutorial isfor everyone who has had trouble making the basic phone case. if you are more advancedand you want to go faster because i am going to go very slow and cover everything withyou and if you're more advanced and you want to go faster please check out my other basicphone case tutorial. i hope this tutorial helps everyone who has had trouble. the suppliesyou will need are one loom. i am going to show you how to set them up later. your rainbowloom hook or a crochet hook [noise] and rubber bands. [noise] i am using blue [noise] andyellow. [noise] please get your supplies and get ready for step one.this is step one. tostart were are going to take our looms apart.

so, take your looms apart. [noise of takingapart looms] we will only be using two rows and our two small blue pieces, not our bigblue piece or our last row. [noise] so what you are going to do is make sure your arrowis pointing away from you on this peg and turn this one around so that the arrow ispointing towards you. [noise] now you are going to take a blue piece, lay this on thevery end on both sides. [noise] push these down and do the same for the other side. laythe blue piece on the very end and push these down. [noise] now we are going to lay ourbottom row and the bottom of our phone case. so, to start we are going to take a rubberband. we're starting on this peg. you're going to make an x. just like that, push this down.now we are going to go from here to here.

make an x and push it down. so now we x'sand we just made an x. so we are going to start where this one stopped. make an x, pushit down. start where this one stopped. make an x, push it down. now we're going to continuemaking x's where the last one stopped. so make an x here and keep going down. [noiseof placing bands on loom] start where this one stopped. and keep going all the way downuntil you get to these two. [noise placing rubber bands on the loom, placing rubber bandson the loom...placing rubber bands on the loom] ok. now when you get to your last two,you are going to go back to where you started onto these two pegs and we're going to makean x from peg to peg all the way down. so make an x from peg to peg, push it down. makean x from peg to peg, push it down. make an

x from peg to peg, push it down and continuethis. [ noise of placing rubber bands on the loom.....placing rubber bands on the loom]now we have just laid our bottom row. this is our bottom row and there are three loopson every peg except the end pegs because they have two loops. so there's three loops onthis peg all the way down here and there's two loops on each end peg. now we're goingto lay our top row, our next row. and so we're going to start on this peg. make sure thisrows arrow is pointing towards you and you're going to lay your rubber bands for your toprow. [noise] we're going to lay them all the way down here. [noise] keep them pushed up.you don't want to mix them in with the bottom row. [noise] go down. [noise] now, as youcan see, we have a bottom row and a top row.

you're going to continue to lay your top rowall the way around until you get back to this peg. i'll be right back. every time you getback to this peg, all you're going to do is lay the rubber band down. usually i just makeyou pull this one up and place this one down. but you just put it down and you don't needto lift it up. so now i have a bottom row and a top row, and what i am going to do,is take my bottom row, on this peg there are two rubber bands, and i am going to just bringthem over the top row and push this down. now i am going to go to my next peg and i'mgoing to bring my bottom row, which is three rubber bands, [noise] and pull this over thetop. now i am going to go to my next one which has three rubber bands. pull this over thetop. [noise] go to your next one. there should

be three rubber bands. pull this over thetop row. [noise] now keep bringing your bottom row over the top row. you should have threerubber bands on each peg until you get to your end ones. they have two. [noise of rubberbands on the loom] make sure you're grabbing all your loops in your bottom row or elseyour bottom row will not be complete. [noise] now this one has two rubber bands insteadof three and so does this one. [noise turns around the loom] you can always pull yourloops down so you can see your bottom row while you're hooking. [more noise] and rememberthis is called bringing your rows down. [more noise from the rubber bands] make sure youbring your bottom loops over the top on all of these. so now this is our bottom row. makesure you push it down. [noise] and what i'm

going to do is continue to lay rubber bandsin a clockwise rotation all the way around. so now this is our top row and this is ourbottom row. [more noise] so keep laying your rubber bands. [noise] and go all the way around.[more noise of rubber bands being put on the loom.] now go to this side. [noise] and goall the way back. [more noise of the rubber bands being put on the loom.] and once youget back to this one, you can just lay your rubber band down. as you can see, as we broughtdown our row, there are thick rubber bands all the way around. which means this is ourbottom row. and this is going to show up every time you bring your rows down. so i'm goingto continue to bring my row down, my bottom two. [noise] now there are two loops on eachpeg. bring your bottom two over the top, all

the way around. and you're going to continuethis for five more rows. i'm not going to do them on camera. and you're going to beable to count five thick rubber bands. as they build up, you will be able to count themand your sixth row should be on your loom. i'm going to continue to bring my row down,all the way around and i'll be right back. i just wanted to show you what it looks likeafter i've brought my first row down, and now i have two thick rubber bands. and whatyou want to do is continue the pattern of laying your rubber bands in a clockwise rotationand bringing your rows down all the way around in a counter-clockwise rotation. every timeyou bring your row down, you want to push your loops down, so that your next row becomesyour bottom row and you can lay another top

row. and remember you have two rows on eachpeg. you're just bringing your bottom row over the top each time. so continue this forfive more rows and you should be able to count five thick rubber bands and your sixth row,should be on your loom. i'm not going to do all five rows with you. so, i'll be rightback. this is what mine looks like after five more rows and i'm able to count five rowsby pushing my loops down with my finger, pulling this down and i'm able to count one, two,three, four, five. now i'm going to start the opening of my phone case. to do that youare going to make sure your arrow is pointing towards you on this row. and you are goingto count three pegs. and now you can see that you have two loops on each peg, we're goingto stick our hook in the third peg. pull out

the bottom loop, over the top. make sure itlatches on your one loop that you just hooked. now you're going to stick your hook in, wehave three loops and we are going to grab our bottom loop. [noise] so stick your hookin, grab your bottom loop, over the top, make sure it hooks all of your loops on your peg.you should be able to do this, make sure you have hooked it. now we have three loops onthis one. you're going to stick your hook in, grab your bottom loop over the top. [noise]make sure it latches on all your loops. like that. now grab your bottom loop over the top.make sure it latches on your loops. [noise] stick your hook in, grab your bottom loopover the top. just make sure it latches on all of your loops for every single one. andwe are going to go one more, to our third

peg. so you should be able to count threepegs on this side. and bring your row over. [noise] just like that. now we are going tomake sure this is all hooked. so go through and look at all of your loops. make sure theyare all hooked. and now what you are going to do, count to your third peg. then go toyour next one over, so your fourth peg. and just bring these loops over the top. [noise]this will fall apart if you have not hooked correctly. [noise] so go down. [noise] countthree loops on this side. so i have one more. [noise] and make sure you have three loopson each side. [noise] now that you've brought down all these rows, actually you've takenoff these rows, you're going to start your sides. to do that, you're going to take yourcolor or your rubber band. you're going to

start on this peg. you're going to go down.and this is going to become our top row. [noise] not our bottom row. [noise] go around andcontinue making your top row all the way around. [noise of rubber bands being put on the loomand more noise. the loom is moving making more noise] and go down to this one. [noise]now you can tell that our bottom row is on the bottom and our top row is the one we justlaid. so, we're going to take our loops over the top. this one has one loop because wehooked this one. you're just going to grab it over the top. now grab these two over thetop. [noise] push these down. now we are going to grab our next two over the top [noise]and continue this all the way around. now we are going to go to this side because wewant to hook so that the c's are towards us.

[noise] so bring these over the top. [noise]grab your two over the top and this one had three by the way. this one had three loops.[noise] bring these two over the top. [noise] now we are going to go down on this side andcontinue this. bring your bottom loops over the top. [more noise from bringing the bottomloops over the top on the loom] now you're just going to continue the process of layingyour rubber bands in a clockwise rotation and bringing your rows down. [noise] eachone will have two rubber bands except these two end ones. and you're just going to bringthese down in a [noise] counter-clockwise rotation [noise] and push your loops downevery single time you bring down your rows. you should be able to count twelve rows onthe sides. and to count these, you just get

these loops that are really easy to count.and you can just stick your hook in and count them. you should have twelve of these andmake sure your thirteen row is on your loom. [noise] i'm going to do mine and i'll be rightback. this is what mine looks like after i've done twelve more rows. my thirteenth row ison my pegs right now. and please make sure you have kept your empty pegs empty. makesure there is nothing on them right now because this is the opening to your phone case. nowwe are going to start our top. and to do that we are just going to start on this peg now,and you are going to take your rubber band [noise] and go around all the way in a clockwiserotation. [noise] make sure your bottom row is pushed down before you do this. [more noise]now lay your top row all the way around until

you get back to this peg. [more noise fromthe rubber bands being placed on the loom] when you get to your empty pegs, you're justgoing to lay rubber bands like you normally will. [noise] so [noise] just lay them downeven though there is nothing else on those pegs. [noise] and push these down. [noise]and go back to normal on these. [noise] and just, when you get back to this one, [noise]just lay it down. now what you are going to do, is we're going to take our bottom loopsover the top and we're going to start on this peg over here [noise] since there is justone, we're just going to grab our one over the top. push these down cause this is nowour bottom row. push these down. now we're going to take these two over the top [noise]push these down [noise] take these two over

the top. push these down [noise] now turnyour loom around [noise] we're going to grab our next two over the top and continue takeyour bottom two over the top each time. [more noise from taking the bottom rubber bandsover the top on the loom] now push these down. remember push your loops down because thisbecomes our next bottom row. [more noise from turning the loom] once you get back to thisone and there's only one, just take it over. [noise] now what you're going to do is wewant to get these back to normal and we don't want it to fringe out. we want it to looknice. [noise] so what you're going to do is take this loop right here inside this hook,this peg, over the top. make sure it latches on this loop. [noise] now continue takingyour bottom loop over the top. [noise] and

this is really easy because you only haveone bottom loop each time. well one loop on your peg. [more noise] until you get backto your third one and you don't have to hook this one over. [more noise] now what we aregoing to do is lay another row. push these down because this becomes our bottom row.[noise] and lay your next row. [noise] so we are going to go all the way around ourloom. [more noise from laying the next row of rubber bands around the loom] oh, i madea mistake here, you're not going on the end, you're just going there. sorry. we're goingto go down [more noise from the rubber bands] even on our empty pegs that we have just hooked.we're going to keep going down. [more noise from rubber bands] even on this one we arejust going to lay a rubber band down. and

make sure you lay your rubber bands only wherewe've been laying them. don't go outside like i just did and now we are going to bring ourrow down. [noise] so now we're just going to go around in a counter-clockwise rotation.so there are two loops on this bottom row, for each one, take them over the top. [noise]take your next two bottom over the top. [noise] and push these two down. now for this one,there is just one loop. you're just going to bring it over the top. push it down. [noise]now for these, you're going to take what we have just hooked, there are two loops here,bring them over the top. these two, over the top. what we have just hooked, two loops,over the top. push these down. take our next two hooked loops, over the top. next two,over the top. and once we get back to this

one, we're just going to take all three overthe top. [noise] our next two, over the top. and our next two over the top. now push thesedown. [noise] and go down this one. [noise] so take your next two, each time. [noise]there will be two loops on each peg all the way down. [more noise from bringing the bottomrows over the top rows.] and bring these two over the top. [noise] now what you're goingto do is you're going to continue laying rubber bands in a clockwise rotation. then you aregoing to bring your loops down, bring your rows down, all the way around in a counter-clockwiserotation. [noise] make sure each time you push your loops down every time you bringthem down because that next row will become your bottom row and then you are just goingto lay your loops down again. so you are going

to continue this for four more rows and makesure your fifth row is on your pegs. i'll be right back. this is what mine looks likeafter i have five rows. actually my sixth row is on the loom, not my fifth row and iam able to count five thick rubber bands. now what you are going to do, is we're goingto end it. so we are going to do exactly what we did in the beginning and to do that you'rejust going to make x's. make an x there. make an x there. [noise] don't push these downbecause this is our top row. [noise] make an x there. [noise] start where this one stopped.make an x here. start where this one stopped and make an x here. now you are going to continuemaking x's where the last one stopped. [noise] all the way down. [more noise from the rubberbands being placed on the loom in the x formation

to form the top] now when you get to the end,we're going to go back to these two and make an x from peg to peg. make an x here. [noise]and go from peg to peg. [more noise from the rubber bands being placed peg to peg makingx's all the way down the loom] now what you're going to do is we are going to bring our bottomloops over the top on all of these pegs. for this one there are two loops. you're goingto bring these over the top. [noise] on this one, there are two loops, bring these overthe top. [noise] on this one, there are two loops. bring them over the top. [noise] andcontinue this all the way around. [more noise from bringing the bottom loops over the topall the way around the loom] take these two, [more noise] keep going. [more noise frombringing the bottom loops over the top all

the way around the loom] now we have justfinished laying the top here. now we're going to hook it. [noise] so, to hook it, we havetwo loops on this peg, a bottom loop and a top loop. what we're going to do, is stickyour hook in, grab that bottom loop over the top. make sure that it hooks on to this one,like this. now for this one, we have four loops on this peg and you want to grab yourbottom loop. make sure that it hooks all your loops. [noise] so it pulls these away fromthe peg. then go to your next one. pull down your bottom loop. [noise] stick your hookin. grab your bottom loop. pull it over the top and remember make sure that it hooks allyour loops and pulls them away from the peg like this one does. [noise] now, pull yourbottom loop down. stick your hook in. [noise]

pull this down. now, pull your bottom loopdown. stick your hook in. pull that out. remember make sure it keep pulling your loops awayor else it will not turn out right. make sure it attaches them like that. [noise] so continueto take your bottom loop over the top. [more noise] and if it's easier for you, you canalways separate your loops from the bottom loop. so that it's easy just to find yourbottom loop and grab it over the top. [noise] pull your bottom loop down. [noise] grab itover the top. make sure it latches all your loops. and you are just going to continuethis all the way around. [more noise from hooking the rubber bands all the way aroundthe loom] so i am going to continue this all the way around until i get back to this peg.please finish this and i'll be right back.

once you get to your last peg, make sure thisone is hooked, and you're just going to stick your hook in these two loops. grab a rubberband. pull this through, oh, let's try that again. stick a rubber band, pull this through.put it back on. [noise] pull this through. make a slip knot. [noise] and pull this tight.and now we can just help our loops off. make sure you have hooked it correctly or elseit will fall apart. just a warning. make sure you've hooked it. and just help them off sowe can take it off our loom. [noise of rubber bands coming off the loom] and on this rowyou can just take them off with your fingers. [more noise of the rubber bands coming offthe loom] at the top, you can just stretch it out so that your loops get adjusted. theyshould adjust and go back to normal. now with

this little loop at the top right here. youcan either attach charms to it or tie it and cut it off or you can even do what nehemiahdid. he attached a wrist strap to it. and you can do a single strand, a fishtail, adragon scale or whatever you would like to do to it. and if you want to see his designit is on the rainbow loom facebook page. so you're done and i hope you enjoy it. [noise]this is what it looks like when it's done. and this phone case does fit the ipod, theiphone, the android and most other phones. and you can add rows if it doesn't fit whereveryou need them. but, these are rubber bands and they do stretch. so, it should fit. andi hope this tutorial has helped all of you who've had trouble making the rainbow loomphone case. and if you have made some, i would

love to see them. i've been tagged in a lotof photos already of your creations and i love seeing them. and you can tag me on instagramat craftlifeusa. i hope you enjoyed this tutorial on how to make a basic phone case. and don'tforget to like us on facebook, pin it on pinterest, and subscribe right here on youtube. i hopeyou're living a craft life just like me. thank's for watching. bye.

Loom Knitting Idea


in this tutorial, we're going to learn tomake a felted christmas stocking, and we can cut away to a photo here. you'll see there, i've got a solid one anda striped one. and if you're not familiar with felting, it'sa way of knitting something up big in wool and then deliberately shrinking it down sothat it makes this really sturdy, thick fabric without stitch definition. if you'd like to get your copy of the patternto follow along, just click the little "i" in the upper right-hand corner. that'll take you to my website.

and you saw the examples there of the solidone and the striped one. i've also got one here. i knit this one up in gryffindor colors, thinkingof sports teams. so i knit my favorite quidditch team. but you can use, of course, any sports colors. the only requirement with this yarn is thatit's 100% wool. wool is what you need for the best felting. you can use a wool and another animal fiberblend but you really need to stay away from any synthetics or any acrylics.

it needs to be 100% animal fiber. i use bulky yarn and, of course, all the detailsfor everything is on my website. i use bulky yarn but you can also use a worstedweight yarn held double-stranded to get the same gauge. anyway, we're going to cover knitting thestripes and german short rows and correcting the color change jog and a few other things. i would put this pattern at advanced beginnerlevel. if you're confident with both knitting andpurling, i'm going to show you everything else.

and i do have the stocking here before it'sfelted. it is absolutely huge, you can see. it looks like a lot of knitting but becauseit's bulky yarn and big needles, it ends up knitting up pretty quickly. i'd say it's a good weekend project. anyway we're going to get started with thecast on and working the stripes. coming up next. if you have your pattern and your yarn andyou're ready to get started, i have it all set up here.

we're ready to get started with the cast on. so let's take a look. i'm doing an abbreviated version here. this pattern calls for 24-inch circulars andi'm using 16-inch circulars. and i am just finishing up my cast on, justan ordinary cast on. i'm going to join this in the round and i'lljust go run over this real quickly here in case you haven't knit in the round before. i have all of my stitches arranged so thatthe knots are on the inside of the cord, all on the same side and nothing's twisted.

i have my working yarn over here on the right-handneedle. i'm going to pick that up and place a markeron the right needle and then just start knitting. and put the marker back on and start knitting. and that's how we're going to join in theround. and you'll knit the cuff. you can change color or knot as many timesas you want. in both the striped version and the solid,i have the cuff knit in a different color. i'll show you. here's the felted fabric.

you can see the stitch definition is goneand this is really sturdy. and the reason i was excited to make a feltedchristmas stocking is i have another christmas stocking pattern that's just straight knitand it looks great. but unless you'd line it with fabric, theknit fabric stretches out when it's full of stuff. this will actually hang rigid no matter howmuch weight you put in the stocking. so anyway, that's not why i pulled this into the frame. we have the cuff and then if you're goingto do stripes, you're going to change color after that with a couple of different colors.

or you can do the cuff and then do the topof the cuff and then the rest the cuff in one solid color. so i have the cuff finished here and i'm ready to change color. and i want to show you how to correct thecolor change jog. when you're knitting in the round, you'reessentially knitting a big spiral. and when you change color, you end up witha stair stepoe look to the color change. and the color changes in this stocking areall at the back of...well, let me pull this back in.

all the color changes are back here, at theback of the leg, i guess you'd say. so it's in an inconspicuous spot but we dowant to make sure that the stripes all end up clean without a color change jog. and that's what i'm going to cover right now. enough talking. let's cover this. so i'm going to knit up to my marker. i'm ready to attach a new color. so i put my needle in that stitch, grab thenew color.

i'm going to fold it over, leaving about asix-inch tail, wrap the back needle and pull that through. and the new yarn is attached. so i'm just going to knit with the new yarn. and this is what you're going to do everytime you change color in the stocking. and it's something you can do when you changecolor, when you're knitting in the round, anytime you're working stripes or a colorchange. you have to be patient with me for a minutewhile i get all the way around. and, again, this is an abbreviated stocking.

the real stocking is bigger than what i havecast on here but the techniques are the same. okay, i'm back up to the marker again andthis is where the real action happens. my stitch markers' caught up in that stitch. okay, you change to the new color. you knit all the way around in the new color. and this is how you correct the stair steppejog. on the first stitch of the second round inthe new color, you look down at the stitch below, the stitch that's on the needle. the stitch below will be in the old color.

you put your needle under the right leg ofthat stitch. if the stitch is a v, the right leg is overhere. put that up on the needle with the stitchon the needle and then knit those two together. i'm going to show you that again. i'm on the first stitch of the second round. i grab the right leg of the stitch below thecurrent stitch. it's in the old color. put it up on the needle with the stitch that'son the needle. and then knit those two together and that'sit.

the rest of the round is knit normally andyou'll do that on the second row of each color change. okay, now i'm going to cover a little bitof the german short row here. and even if you've worked my german shortrow socks before, you're familiar with the german short row technique, there's somethinga little bit different here that i want to cover. and that's...obviously, in this piece, i'mnot ready to start the heel. we're going to pretend i've knit the wholecuff and i'm ready to start the heel here. i'm at the marker and because the marker isat the very back of the stocking, we're going

to knit half of the heel and then come backand knit the other half and then combine it all together because we want all the colorchanges to happen right in the center. that's the only thing that's different andit's all spelled out in the pattern. so i'm going to attach it and then followthe pattern to knit the number of stitches for this heel. and then doing the german short row, i knitup to where i need to be. i turn the work. and on the purl side, i slip the stitch fromthe left to the right needle, pull up on that stitch and yarn forward, and then purl.

i'll show you this again, don't worry. and now this is an interesting thing herebecause, essentially, i'm on the second round in this new color and i need to do the colorjog correction on this stitch, right? and this is what i'm going to do. i'm going to slip that stitch from the leftto the right needle, grab the right leg of the stitch below just like i did on the knitside, but i'm on the purl side this time. i'm splitting the stitch but i need to getthat up on the needle, slip those two stitches back over and now purl those two stitches together. it's not essential that you do this but ijust work the color correction jog on the

wrong side of the work and that's it. and now i'm going to knit. purl the other half of the heel to get thesestitches incorporated. turn the work. okay, so now i have all of the heel stitchesare in the gray color, in the other color, i'm ready to go and i'm just going to keepworking german short rows. i'm going to pull the yarn forward. this is the knit side. slip that stitch from the left needle to theright, pull up on the yarn, and it creates

this funny double stitch. and then knit across to the next stitch. and, again, i'm doing a dinky little versionhere but the techniques are what's important. so i knit up to the next one, turn the work. this is the purl side. i'll slip that stitch, pull up on it to createa double stitch, yarn forward and then purl to the next stitch. turn the work, yarn forward, slip that stitch,pull up on it and then knit to the next stitch. so that's how you work the first half of theheel.

and then the second half of the heel, it'sreally similar. the pattern will tell you to knit the firstdouble stitch together. knit the second double stitch together. well, actually, we'll have more wrap stitchesthan that. you'll knit the first one the pattern tellsyou and the second one, but you'll have more than two. and then you work a german short row on thatfirst stitch. i'll show you on the other side. i'm afraid that what i just said was confusing.

you'll have more wraps and turns or more germanshort rows worked than what i have here because i'm only doing two wraps on each side. i'm going to purl two together, purl the nexttwo together, turn the work, and then work the german short row technique on that stitch. the german short row is a way of turning thework without leaving an enormous hole in the work and it gives us shaping in the knitting. so you'll follow the pattern. that's the technique used. follow the pattern.

you're going to work that over and over againuntil the entire heel is shaped. and then what's a little bit different fromother short row sock patterns or other german short row sock patterns that i have is you'regoing to knit all the way across and then knit back to the marker before you changecolor. and just like we started here going this way,we're going to end going this way up to the marker. and i spell all that out in the pattern, row-by-rowinstructions. that is the whole technique you're going toknit the cuff which is very simple, the german short row heel, the foot of the stocking.

and then the last part is, the toe is justa simple decrease pattern. it's not german short rows. i actually tried german short rows when iwas designing this and i found that while a german short row heel is great in socks,it was a boxy toe and when the stocking was hanging, it wouldn't lie flat against thewall. it was this boxy toe. anyway, so i modified that and made it justa simple knit two together, decrease pattern all the way around. and yes, that's it.

next up, we're going to make the i-cord strapand talk about felting. when you finish knitting the entire foot ofthe stocking, we're ready to work on the strap for it and you're going to attach the strapbefore felting so everything felts all together. it's just a simple i-cord strap and i'm goingto show you how to work that, so let's go and take a look. here is the finished stocking and here's thestrap. and it's just i-cord attached down. because it's felted, you don't have to besuper perfect with your stitching. but you do want to make sure that it's securedpretty far into the stocking.

i have designed these to basically hold lead. you could fill these with anything. these are the strongest stockings in the worldbut that's what we're going to make right now. excuse me. i'll get to that in a moment. so you want your yarn...and the yarn thati used, let me pull this back. i matched the top of the cuff with the samecolor but you don't have to. you can use a different color from the stockingif you like, leaving yourself a decent tail,

because we're going to use that tail for seeming. cast on four stitches on a double pointedneedle. and it has to be a double pointed needle becauseof the way this technique works. you cast on and normally you'd turn the worknow. but instead we're going to slide it to theother end of the double-pointed needle so the working yarn is actually coming from thewrong side of the work. and then knit across. okay, again, normally you'd turn the workhere but we're going to slide it over to the other side so the working yarn is coming fromthe last stitch, and knit across.

if you've never worked this before, it's prettyamazing how this ends up looking when it's finished. okay, again, slide it. that is it. that is the technique for i-cord and thisis a four stitch i cord. you'll see i cord and other patterns writtenwith more or fewer stitches. and after you've knit a little bit, you cango ahead and pull on the tail end. and you'll see the whole thing closes up onitself and it does make this cord that's knitted so in this pattern, you're going to do thatfor eight inches, i believe.

and i have one here that's ready to go. i'm just ready to bind this one off and it'sjust a normal bind-off. i'm going to knit two, pull one stitch overthe other and break the yarn and pull the last end through. my yarn was already cut. okay, so now i have this and i'm ready toattach it. i'm going to get my tapestry needle. i'm ready to attach it to the inside of thestocking. this is my big unfelted stocking and i'm goingto attach it here.

i'm doing in a different color. i just said that i'd do it in the same color. i'm doing this one in a different color. so you'll be able to find the very back ofyour stocking because it's all of the places that you have changed yarn color. the first thing i'm going to do is to foldthis over, thread one of the ends onto a tapestry needle and stitch the two halves together. and because this is on the inside of the stockingand it's going to be felted, it is an essentialthat it's perfect stitching.

you want to keep it tidy. but you don't have to get too wrapped up andspending a lot of time on this part. so i've stitched it together at the bottom. and now i'm going to place it inside the stockingand thread the other end onto the tapestry needle and then stitch it down here. and since i am using a different color, i'mgoing to be careful to just grab the back loop of the stitch and not go all the waythrough the fabric. if i was using the same color, i wouldn'thave to be so careful about it. okay, so you notice that i attached it allthe way down the entire length of the top

color and i will attach it all the way downthe other side and then cut the threads short. and with felting, because this is all felted,i have a knot here when i change color. i can just cut those short. i don't really have to spend a lot of timeweaving things in because they are not going to come unravelled when they're felted. everything's going to be fine when once allof the stitches are felted together. i couldn't think of another word other thanfelted together. anyway, a little bit about felting, you wantto put the stocking or multiple stockings. if you're making a bunch of them, you probablywant to wash them all at the same time or

felt them all at the same time so that theyend up being the same size when they're finished. or you can just keep careful notes of exactlyhow long you felted it. when i'm doing this, i put the stocking intoa lingerie bag or a zippered pillowcase because it is going to throw little bits of wool andit's easier to clean out the inside of a lingerie bag instead of the entire washing machine. and i turned the water on too hot and letit run for a minute, making sure the water is really hot, and then spin that water outand then fill it for a small hot wash using a little bit of wool soap. i also throw an old towel or an old pair ofjeans in there with the stocking to help rough

it up and help the felting process happen. and then you want to check it about everyfive minutes. just off the top of my head, i can't exactlyremember how long i felted mine. it's in the pattern though for sure. you want to be careful not to burn your handswhen you're checking it. so my technique for that is barbecue tongs. i use barbecue tongs to pull out the lingeriebag and let it drip and then take a peek inside, see just how much it's felted. and the main thing you're looking for is thestitch definition to go away.

you don't want to be able to see the knitstitches anymore, and then beyond that you want to see the exact size that you have. so i also can't keep yardstick when i'm felting. i keep a yardstick next to the washer so ican measure and see exactly how big, how small the knitting is getting in the hot wash. anyway, that is everything, i think, all thetechniques used on this stocking. again, just click the little "i" in the upperright-hand corner to get your pattern and for links to everything that i've shown herein the video. good luck.

Knitting Pattern 7Mm Needles


hi! i’m davina of sheepandstitch.com. today,we’re going to learn how to knit a cowl or scarf using seed stitch and any yarn youhave. now, i love seed stitch, because it’s got a great, nubby texture that lays flatand is the same on both sides. seed stitch is also knit entirely out of knits and purl.so, if you know how to knit, purl, cast on and cast off, then you’re ready to knitseed stitch. and if you don’t know how to do any of these things, then check out myhow to knit video series. now, this video is packed with a lot of information, so ifyou want to skip ahead or jump around, you can refer to the chapter markers down in thedescription. alright, ready to go? yeah? yeah? okay, let’s start knitting!

so in this video, we’re going to learn howto knit seed stitch on flat needles like this, in order to make a scarf. and we’ll alsolearn how to knit up seed stitch on circular needles like this so that we can make a cowl.and we’ll also learn how to cast off in pattern and also how to wet block if you decideyou want your cowl or scarf to have a little bit of drape. and we’ll also learn how tocalculate the right number of cast on stitches for any yarn weight that you have hangingaround. so the cowl i’ve knit up here is knit withbulky weight yarn. and it’s knit with just one skein of martta the merino, which is aone-ply merino yarn that’s so yummy. just one skein is needed to knit up this entirecowl, with quite a bit of yarn leftover. so

this is available in the sheep & stitch storeand it’s the color sunset. now to knit seed sittch on two needles, you’llneed to cast on an even number of stitches. on this needle, i’ve cast on 16 stitches,which is an even number. so the number of stitches that you cast on for your scarf dependson how wide you want your scarf to be. the number of cast on stitches determines thewidth of your scarf. so if i’ve cast on 16 stitches here, i can be pretty sure thatmy scarf will be at least this wide, but probably a bit wider. it will probably spread an extrainch or so when i knit into my stitches. so when you’re casting on your stitches,just eyeball how wide you want your scarf to be and cast on the number of stitches thatgets you the width you want, and prepare for

it to spread out a bit. okay, so this looks pretty good to me. i’mgoing to start knitting my seed stitch. so, seed stitch is basically a two row pattern.and we repeat those two rows. on row 1 we’re going to knit 1 and then purl 1. i’m goingto bring my yarn up front because that’s how we purl. then i’m going to go from thetop to the bottom, and we’ll purl that second stitch. and that’s the repeat for our row1: knit 1 and purl 1. so, we’ll repeat that. we’ll do another knit 1, and then bringour yarn up front for our purl. so we’re just alternating knits and purls, and we’llcontinue going. knit 1 and purl 1. if you ever forget whether you’re supposedto knit or purl, just look at the stitch that

went before. i’ve just done a purl stitch,and i can tell from this little bump here. so now i know that i need to do a knit stitchnext. so complete your first row of seed stitch doing one knit and one purl. once you’redone, we’ll move on to the second row. so, now i’ve finished row 1, and you cansee that my last stitch is a purl stitch. you can tell from the little bump here. sonow let’s work row 2. i’m going to turn my needle over. row 2 is really the oppositeof row 1. row 2 starts with a purl 1, so i’m going to push my needle from the top to thebottom, and i’ve got my yarn up front. i’m going to purl that first stitch. and thenwe’re going to knit our second stitch. and then we’re going to purl and then knit.so we’re doing a purl 1 and a knit 1. and

we’re repeating this to the end of our row.that’s all there is to row 2. we’re basically reversing row 1. so try that out and workrow 2 of your seed stitch, purling one and knitting one. so now i’ve finished my two rows of seedstitch and that’s pretty much all there is to seed stitch. you would just repeat thesetwo rows until our scarf is the length that you like. or until you run out of yarn atwhich point you would cast off. so now i’m doing my last purl stitch onmy row 2 and here’s my last knit stitch. so now i’ve just completed row 2 of my seedstitch. and that’s all there is to seed stitch.

now if you’re worried about getting confusedand forgetting what row you’re on. you actually don’t need to refer to what row you’reon. i’ll show you a hack i use so that i can knit seed stitch without referring torow 1 and row 2 and all that. the one thing you need to remember about seed stitch isthat you always knit your purl stitches and you purl your knit stitches. so we’ve gota purl stitch here, and you can tell by this bump. so i’ve got a purl stitch here, andi’m not going to purl into the purl stitch. i’m going to knit into my purl stitch. mynext stitch is a knit stitch, and i can tell by this little v-shape. and knit stitchescan be recognised by their v-shapes. so i’ve got a knit stitch here, and i’m not goingto knit into it. i’m going to purl into

it. so i’ll bring my yarn up front and purlinto that knit stitch. and here’s we’ve got a purl stitch, sowe’re not purling into it. we’re going to knit into it. so we’re doing the oppositeof what the stitch is. the stitch is a knit stitch, so we’re not going to knit intoit. we’re going to purl into it. so i like to think of it as opposites attract. the oppositeof a purl stitch is a knit stitch and the opposite of a knit stitch is a purl stitch.and if you don’t believe me, you can look at the back of your knits and purls. herewe’ve got a purl stitch and let’s turn it over. you can see that the back of it isa knit stitch. pretty crazy, right? and here we’ve got a purl stitch. if we turn it overyou can see that it is a knit stitch. so it

really is the opposite. so when you think of opposites attract, youcan think of the purl stitch not wanting a purl stitch. the purl doesn’t want the sameold purl stitch. it doesn’t want the same thing as what it is. it wants the opposite.it wants a knit stitch. you can think of all your stitches when you’re knitting seedstitch as being experimental, or being in an experimental phase. they don’t want thesame thing as themselves. they want something new and different. they want the exact opposite.so the purl stitch is not into other purl stitches. our purl stitch wants a knit stitch,so we’ll give our purl stitch a knit stitch. we’ll give it the opposite of what it is.our knit stitch isn’t into other knit stitches.

our knit stitch wants a purl stitch, so let’sgive that knit stitch a purl stitch. you’re giving your stitches the opposite of whatit is. it’s into new things, new horizons. it wants to experience things that are unlikeitself. so here we’ve got a knit stitch, so i’m going to purl that knit stitch. so just remember: opposites attract. you’llnever need to refer to your pattern to knit seed stitch. all you need to remember is thatyou knit your purls and purl your knits. you’re doing the opposite of what your stitch is.you can also think of opposites attract. so i hope that helps you knit your seed stitchwithout a care in the world. all you need to do is look directly at your stitches totell you what to knit.

knitting seed stitch in the round is verysimilar to knitting on flat needles. it follows the same principle in that we are knittingour purls and purling our knits. we’re not doing what we’re “supposed” to be doing.but we cast on a different number of stitches. we cast on an odd number of stitches to knitin the round. so something like 19, 21, 23. these are odd numbers. whereas when we’reknitting on flat needles, we cast on an even number of stitches. for this cowl, i’ve cast on 57 stitcheswith my martta the merino yarn. that gives me a cowl that is about 25” in circumference.and after i wet blocked it, it spread out to about 26”. just a quick tip. the needlesi’m using are 24” from this tip to this

tip - 24” and they are 10mm in size. now, in order to join this in the yarn, ineed to stretch out my stitches so that they actually meet. right now my stitches are kindof bunched up, and that’s because i don’t have that may stitches. remember my finishedcircumference is only 25” and my needles are 24” so i need to stretch out my stitchesso that they actually meet. i’m going to push my stitches, just like this. very primitive.we’re going to push our stitches to stretch them out so that they actually meet. herewe go. so now my stitches are right up close to the points of my needles so that i canactually join them in the round. oh! so here’s a tip. some people have saidthat they don’t like that when they join

in the round theres a bit of a gap where theyjoin. so i have a tip for you on how to minimise that join. to minimise the gap where you join in theround what i’m going to do is cast on one extra stitch. so i’ve got my odd numberof stitches. i’ve got 57 sts, and i’m going to cast on one extra stitch. now ifyou’re worried about this messing up your stitches, don’t worry because this extrastitch will disappear very quickly. it won’t become part of our knitting. so i’ve caston an extra stitch. now i’ve got 58 stitches on my needle. so i’m going to take my leftneedle and just grab that stitch that i just cast on, and i’m going to bring it overto my left needle like this. this yarn may

try to ride up, so don’t let it. just pullit down. i’ve clamped my fingers around it so it doesn’t fall away. and now my extracast on stitch is on my left needle. now i’m going to take this stitch right here, thissecond stitch on my left needle, and i’m going to bring my needle underneath it anddrop it over this stitch. so i’m going to pinch this first stitch here and bring thatsecond stitch over it. so now my second stitch is over my first stitch and i’m going totransfer this stitch back over to my right needle. so i’m going to take my right needleand bring that stitch back. my tail end is riding up again, so i’m going to grab thistail end and just pull it down. you’re not going anywhere, buddy. you’re staying inplace.

so now you’ll see that our extra stitchhas disappeared. we’ve just joined in the round. that extra stitch is right here now,and we’ve closed up any gaps that have formed. if you want, you can count up all of yourstitches, but i assure you that that extra stitch has disappeared. so now i have 57 stitcheson my needle. i don’t have 58 stitches, because that extra stitch is now down here.it’s joining our stitches together in the round. so when you do this, you minimise anyweird gap that forms when you knit in the round. so now we need to put our stitch marker inplace so we can mark the beginning and end of our round. i’m going to use one of myrings here. i love doing this because i frequently

do not have stitch markers around. so i’mgoing to take my ring ad put it onto my needle, and this will be my makeshift stitch marker. so now we’re ready to knit seed stitch inthe round. our first round is a knit 1 and then we’re going to purl 1. i’ll bringmy yarn up front and we will purl 1. and we’re going to repeat that: knit 1, purl 1 untilwe get to the last stitch of our round, and then we’re going to knit that guy. so verysimilar to seed stitch on two flat needles: knit 1, purl1, knit 1, purl 1. so let’swork this round together. just a little tip. if you’re knitting bulky weight yarn, andyou’ve cast on 57 stitches like me, it may be a little bit tight because your stitchesare stretched out. don’t worry about it.

just push your stitches up like this to getthem close to your needle point. so knit up round 1 and meet me back here and we’llwork round 2 together. so i’m nearing the end of round 1, doinga knit 1 and a purl 1. and now i’m at the last stitch of my round, and i’m going toknit that. so now i’ve finished my round 1. woohoo! so i’m going to bring my stitchmarker over. and now we’ll work round 2. so round 2 is very simple. we’re just goingto purl 1, so let’s bring our yarn up front, and we’ll do a purl 1 and a knit 1. andwe would repeat this all the way to the last stitch of our round at which point we wouldpurl 1. so the same principle applies to seed stitch in the round as it does on flat needles.

meaning that when you see a purl stitch, insteadof purling it, you would knit into it. and when you see a knit stitch you would purlinto it. so it’s not like stockinette stitch where you knit t the knits and purl the purls.with seed sittch you do the opposite of what the stitch is. so the stitch is a purl stitch,so you’re going to knit into it. the stitch is a knit stitch, so you’re going to purlinto it. so work round 2 of your seed stitch. so we’re nearing the end of round 2 andhere’s the last stitch of round 2 and we’re going to purl that knit stitch. perfect. sonow you’ve completed round 1 and round 2 of seed stitch. and now you would continueknitting, repeating round1 and round 2 until it becomes the height that you want, at whichpoint we can cast off.

i’m going to show you how to customise thispattern so that you can knit up a cowl in seed stitch using whatever yarn and needlecombination you have. first you’ll need a measuring tape like this. it’s best ifyou measure around your head or whoever’s head you’re knitting this cowl for, anddetermine how large you want the circumference of this cowl to be. so for me, i chose 25”because i like a nice narrow cowl. but if you want a really long infinity scarf, youcan consider going up to 50” or even 55” or 60.” use a measuring tape like this,measure around your head and determine the size that you want. and once you’ve donethat, write that size down. so for me, i’m going to write down 25.” once you’ve determinedyour size, write that down and we’ll move

on to the next step. so once you’ve decided how large you wantyour cowl to be and you’ve written it down, then you’re going to knit a gauge swatch.and this is my little gauge swatch here. and i’ve used the yarn that i’m going to knitmy cowl with and also the needles i’ll knit my cowl with. this is a much thinner yarnthan what i had previously. this is an aran weight yarn, so i’ve knit up seed stitch.and the number of stitches that you cast on need to be larger than 4”. so let’s see. my little swatch here is about6.25.” so when you cast on the number of stitches for your gauge swatch, make surethat when you measure out those stitches that

you have at least 4.” as you knit your seedstitch, your fabric will grow and expand. so at least 4”. now a typical gauge swatchis 4” by 4” upwards. so 4” stitch-wise and 4” row-wise, but i don’t think weneed to knit a whole gauge swatch. we can do a “cheaty” version because we’rereally only interested in the stitch count. we want to know how many stitches make up4” and that will help us determine how many stitches we need to cast on for our cowl.so here i’ve knit up about 3” and that’s perfectly fine. if you’re short on timeyou can knit up 2” in seed stitch and that’s fine as well. so once you have your gauge swatch knit up,you can measure out 4.” i’m not going

to measure right from the edge. i’m goingto measure from the middle because the middle of the swatch gives us the best reading ofour knitting. so i’m going to start here, and i’ve got a split ring marker. so i’mgoing to mark that area. i’m going to squeeze this stitch marker in. great. and i’m goingto measure from here up to 4” which is about here. so i’m going to bring in my secondstitch marker like this. you don’t have to use a split ring marker. you can eyeballit too. so now i want to figure out how many stitches make up 4” using my yarn and needlecombination. so here we go: 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, and 13. so for me, using my yarn, thisneedle and my unique knitting tension made from my hands, i get 13 stitches equals 4.”so i’m going to write this down. i’m going

to write down 13 stitches equals 4”. so now let’s do a bit of math. we know that13 stitches equals 4.” well, what about 25”? for me i know i want my cowl to be25”, so how many stitches equals 25”? if this sounds like middle school algebra,you’re right! i totally remember learning this in eighth grade. i’m going to get mycalculator out because i’m really bad at math. so what we’re going to do is figureout 4 times what equals 25. so i’m going to go 25 divided by 4 equals 6.25. so i knowthat if i multiply 4 by 6.25 then i get 25. so if you don’t believe me and you’rereally bad at math like i am, i’m going to double check. so 4 times 6.25 equals 25.perfect. so i’m going to do the same to

this side because whatever you do to one sideyou do to the other side. thank you mr. anderson. i totally remember that! so 13 times 6.25equals 81.25. so 81.25 is the number of stitches we need to cast on in order for our cowl tobe 25”. now obviously we can’t cast on 0.25 stitches.that s kind of funky. so we need to either round up or round down. when we knit seedstitch in the round, we need to have an odd number of stitches, so i would cast on either81 or 83, which are odd numbers. so depending on how much yarn you have or how you’refeeling, you would round up or round down to an odd number. i’m feeling generous soi’ll cast on 83 stitches, and that will get me a little more than 25” and i’mhappy with that. so you can use this formula

to figure out how many stitches to cast onso that you can knit the cowl of your dreams with the yarn and needles that you have athand. so once your cowl or scarf is the length thatyou want it to be, then we’re ready to cast off. so we’re going to cast off in pattern.and you can do this whether you’re knitting on flat needles or in the round. so let’scontinue in our seed stitch pattern. here’s a knit stitch, so i’m going to purl intothat. our next stitch is a purl stitch so i’m going to knit into that purl stitch.so now we’ve got two stitches on our right needle and i’m going to take my left needle,go underneath that first stitch and bring it over the second stitch. now we’re goingto move on and purl our next stitch, which

is a knit stitch. i’ll bring my yarn upfront and purl that knit stitch as we do when we’re knitting seed stitch. so we’ve gotwo stitches on our right needle. i’ll bring my left needle underneath that first stitchand bring it over our second stitch. so we’re basically casting off, but we’re castingoff in pattern. here’s a purl stitch so we’ll knit that and then bring our secondstitch over our first stitch. when you’re casting off you want to keep your hand niceand loose. you don’t want a death grip on your yarn. you want your cast off edge tobe nice and loose. loosey goosey. so continue casting off in pattern until you have onestitch left on your needle. i’m going to knit my last stitch and go underneath thatsecond stitch and bring it over like this.

great. so now i have one stitch left on myneedle. i’m going to get my scissors out and leave a 7” or 8” tail and then cutoff. now i’m going to take my tail and bring it to the front of my needle like this. andthen i’m going to take that stitch that’s on my stitch and bring it over that tail endand pull my tail through. now my stitches are secure! our swatch is off our needles.so now you can weave in your ends and wear your cowl or scarf into the world and enjoyit. or if you want your cowl or scarf to be a little bit wider or longer we can do a wetblock to stretch it out. so if you find that your scarf or cowl isa little too narrow and you want it to be longer, taller or wider, then you can do thatby doing what’s called a wet block. what

that means is that you would take your scarfor cowl and dunk it into water, push out the water and then lay it flat to dry. and youcan use sewing pins to pin your scarf or cowl in place. now that’s fairly drastic. whenyou do a wet block you can reshape your entire scarf or cowl. you can stretch it out quitedramatically. for me, i don’t really want to do a huge wet block, and i’ll link toa video that shows you how to do a wet block where i wet block a sweater. for me, wheni knit up this cowl i did a very “light wet block”. so, if you’re only lookingto gain an inch or two, then a light wet block is a good idea. so let’s get started. how i do what i calla “light wet block” is - i have some water

here, and i’ll lightly sprinkle my swatchon one side and then i flip it over and do the other side. then i stretch it out to thedimensions i want it to be, and then lay it flat dry. and that’s all there is to a wetblock, or a “light wet block.” so let’s do it together. take a towel and lay it downand put your knitting on top of it so your table or floor doesn’t get wet. i’ll takemy water here and lightly, kind of, drip it onto my project like that. so you can seeit’s staying on my yarn here. it’s not really absorbing, and that’s okay. i justwant to wet it a little bit. so i’m letting the water absorb and if i flip it over, ithas not seeped through the other side. so i’m going to wet the other side now. i don’twant it to be soaking wet. if i feel it, it

has soaked through a little bit. so maybei’ll put just a bit of water on here. so, just spreading the water around. this is kindof fun actually. [laughter] it’s not soaking wet. it’s just kind of damp. i need morewater because i’m working with bulky weight yarn. so here we go. now that my swatch iswet, i can stretch it out. so you can see that my swatch has actually evened out quitea bit. when we first started out, the corners weren’t that even. i just want to stretchthis out an inch or so, so i’m going to pull it like this. and that for me is enough.i can get half an inch on this swatch. so if you don’t want it to grow that much,you don’t have to stretch it out too much. you can see that it really is stretching asit’s wet. you can really manipulate the

fabric when it’s wet. i’m going to leaveit like this and then lay it to dry. that’s it. just leave it alone and by the next dayyour cowl or scarf will have dried in this shape. and then you can wear it out into theworld. pretty cool, right? so that is how you knit a scarf or cowl in seed stitch withwhatever yarn or needles you have on hand. thank you so much for watching! if this videohelped you out then consider subscribing to this channel for more knitting tips and tutorials.and hey! visit sheepandstitch.com to drool over yummy yarn, knitting kits and our everypopular pattern tutorials. okay, that’s it for me i’m davina of sheepandstitch.com.have a great day and happy knitting!

Knitting Pattern 7 Stitch Repeat


hello everyone! in this video i’ll show you how to crochet a skirt. the written instruction how make this skirt is available at: interunet.com/crochet-lace-skirt i’ll work the skirt from top to bottom and make a foundation chain of one hundred ten chains or multiples of three chains plus two additional chains.

then work one slip stitch to crochet in the round. for the first round make three chains to pick up a height. and then work one double crochet in each chain to end of the round. at the end of the double crochet round work one slip stitch into the third chain. one, two, three –

one slip stitch. second round. work one chain. and then back loop single crochet to end of the round. back loops. back loop single crochet to end. at the end of the single crochet round work one slip stitch into the first chain. third round. work three chains to pick up a height,

and then back loop double crochet to end. at the end of the round work slip stitch into the third chain. and the fourth round work like second one. for the fifth round make one chain, skip one chain, and then work bump. for that single crochet one, three chains – one, two, three.

and again, into the same base chain – single crochet one. then work two chains, skip two chains, and again bump. single crochet one, three chains, and again single crochet one into the same base chain. and then i just repeat the process. again, two chains,

skip two chains, and again bump. that way, i will continue to end of the round. at the end of the round, after last bump, work two chains, skip two chains, and again work one bump. skip bump, and skip first chain after the bump, and then in the following chain

work again bump. single crochet, and again single crochet into the same chain. and that way – skip a bump, skip one chain, and again bump, i will continue to end of the round. work the pattern in an endless round. so, again, continue chain two, skip a bump, skip one chain,

again, one bump and so on. after the pattern work the eleventh round. make one chain, then work two single crochet. so, skip one bump, and work two single crochets. then make two chains. again, skip one bump, and work again two single crochets.

and again just repeat the process – skip a bump, two single crochets at the end of the eleventh round, after last two single crochets, make two chains, skip a bump, and then work single crochet. count your chains again. you should have one hundred forty four chains

plus one chain on your hook. for the twelfth round work single crochet to end. for the thirteenth round i worked just back loop double crochet. and for the fourteenth round i worked back loop single crochet. fifteenth round. make three chains. then insert your hook into the second chain, grab the yarn and pull it through. then do the same in the following chain. draw the yarn through the loop.

then, insert your hook into the first base chain, pull the yarn through and through two more chains. you should have six loops on your hook. then pull the yarn through all six loops. make two chains. and now insert your hook into the center. and again, pull the yarn through. then, pull the yarn through the last used chain, and draw the yarn through the three following chains.

again, you should have six loops on your hook. again, garb the yarn and pull it through. then i will just repeat – draw the yarn through the center of the cluster, then through the last used chain, and then through the following three base chains. and that way, i will continue to end of the round. at the end of the fifteenth round, again, draw the yarn through the center of the cluster,

then through last used chain, and two following base chains. so, you have five loops on your hook. and then pull the yarn though the second chain, grab the yarn and pull it through the six loops on your hook. then make one chain, and one slip stitch. sixteenth round. work half double crochet three

into each center of a cluster. so, i will continue working half double crochet three into each center of a cluster to end of the round. at the end of the sixteenth round for the seventeenth round i worked single crochet to end. for eighteenth round i worked back loop double crochet to end. and for nineteenth round i worked back loop single crochet to end of the round. twentieth round. make three chains, skip two chains and work one v-stitch. for that, work double crochet one,

chain one, and again double crochet one into the same base chain. then i skip two chains, and work v-stitch in this chain again. double crochet one, chain one, double crochet one. and that way – skip two chains, v-stitch in the third chain, at the end of twentieth round work double crochet one,

chain one, and then slip stitch into the third chain – one, two, three. and one slip stitch. twenty first round. work two single crochets, one picot – make two chains and work one single crochet into the first chain. then work single crochet three.

then again one picot – two chains and single crochet. then just repeat the process. again – three single crochets, one picot to end of the round. at the end of the round, after last picot, work single crochet one, then make two chains for the following round, and work double crochet one into the following chain.

then, make two chains. now work one cluster. for that, insert the hook into the following chain, then pull the yarn through the first two stitches on your hook. then again, yarn over, and insert the hook right after the bump. again, draw the yarn through the loop, and again,

pull the yarn through the first two stitches on your hook. when you have three loops on your hook, draw the yarn through the three loops on your hook. so, this is one cluster. and then again – two chains, again cluster. and that way – two chains, cluster at the end of the round, after last cluster and two chains, work again

cluster. then two chains, and one slip stitch into the third chain. now just repeat the pattern starting from the single crochet round. so, my twenty third round will be single crochet round, then, back loop double crochet round, and so on. just repeat this piece, until you crochet the desire length of the skirt. that’s what you should have so far.

i repeated flower pattern three times, and this pattern two times. for the last pattern, it is necessary to have multiples of six chains. i have one hundred forty four chains in total and this number is dividable by six. so, first i will skip two chains, and then in the third chain i will work half double crochet four.

then, i will make three chain, into the same base chain, i will work half double crochet four. after the four half double crochets, into the same base chain, skip two chains and work one half double crochet. then again skip two chains and repeat the process – half double crochet four into one chain

half double crochet four into the same base chain. and that way i will continue to end of the round. at the end of the round skip two chains and work one half double crochet. then work in an endless round. again, here work double crochet four, three chains, double crochet four into the same opening. then, skip three chains,

yarn over, pull the yarn through the fourth chain, and then again draw the yarn through the fifth chain. pull the yarn through the first two chains on your hook and then through the remaining three loops on your hook. then repeat the process in this opening. again half double crochet four, three chains, half double crochet four,

and so on to end of the round. i repeated the pattern three times. and at the end of last round, skip three chains, yarn over, and then though the fifth one. then, this last loop, pull through the three loops on your hook. after the pattern crochet a belt.

for that, make a foundation chain of two hundred chains and into the last chain, work like here. half double crochet four, chain three, half double crochet four, then one chain and one slip stitch into the same chain. then work slip stitches to the other end. and here just repeat the process. for the edge, work single crochet to end.

then insert your belt between double crochets like so. after that, the skirt is ready and thank you for watching.


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